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bucket

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If you find a liner that works well in the rear of your Burb, let me know:baby:
 

89Suburban

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89Suburban

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If you find a liner that works well in the rear of your Burb, let me know:baby:
It will be posted here and you guys will be first to know. :High 5:
 

89Suburban

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Swims350

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I saw that kit in eastwood but the tubes are half the size of normal caulk tubes and costs $20 a piece to get replacements. I got those pliers, but the thing is they want you to use rivets too. if I have to use rivets, I'll caulk the junk with silicone or something to keep water out and rivet it, if I use panel bonding adhesive I expect it to hold on it's own no screws or rivets, other then until it's sets up.
 

f1shman

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****, that's local p/u only. :flipthebird:

Your local Autozone or Advance Auto can order that panel for you. They'll have to special order it through a catalog as body parts aren't kept in their computer system, but the guys behind the counter can look it up and call to check the price for you if you ask them for it.
 

89Suburban

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I am going to start ripping the rear carpet and back seat out over the new years holiday weekend so I can start attacking this ****. Pics to follow....
 

jake wells

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if it didn't rust it wouldn't be a chevy.

look if you think that is bad my cab supports are made out of 2x4's and plywood i have no rockers or cab corners lower fenders are gone and my bed is so ate up with rust you can see the road.
 

Swims350

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lol that sounds like my old 76, I could change plugs from inside the cab, or check for valve cover leaks, could see the road inside and fred flintstone it, then the bed you could almost see thru to the other side. it was all covered in bondo and tin though.
 

Old77

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lol that sounds like my old 76, I could change plugs from inside the cab, or check for valve cover leaks, could see the road inside and fred flintstone it, then the bed you could almost see thru to the other side. it was all covered in bondo and tin though.

Sounds like a gem...
 

Swims350

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lol thus why it got scrapped. I wished I would have kept it and fixed it though. it needed everything, fenders, inners, bedsides, or arches, rear lowers, and a back corner or two, rear wheel tubs were fine, bed floor wasn't good, floors it needed, inner rockers, outers, floor supports, and hood, maybe rad. support not sure. The cab corners were great, and so were the doors, but they were aftermarkets from another truck. The main floor supports that ran from front to back were fine. The firewall would have been the hardest, no replacement panels for it. The frame was good except for the crossmember at the front of the bed. Get this....

The VIn said it was a 350 factory, and 3 spd. on the column, when we got it it had a straight 6 in it. We went thru 2 of them, one lacked power the other started to knock, dropped in a 350 and it was nasty. I think it had the very low first gear in the 3 spd. and then 4.11's or something out back, it was a 12 bolt clutch type posi. That same motor is in dad's 84 now.
 

Old77

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Doesn't even sound like it was restorable in that kinda shape...
 

Swims350

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That's what my old man said but again with enough time and money would be fine. The firewall would be the worst, just find some flat steel r swap cabs, I found a guy with a cab after we had it hauled off, the guy who hauled it off actually had one!!!!!!! Then I'd just need inner and outer fenders, the 5 piece cab floor kit, use the support, inner rocker, outer rocker, pan, find a bed or get bed sides, maybe a floor or pieces. Would have been alot of cutting and welding.
 

Old77

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That's the truth! You woulda had almost a brand new truck when you were done, too :)
 

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