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Ikeece

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Jul 19, 2024
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Location
Independence, MO
First Name
Hayden
Truck Year
1982
Truck Model
c10 Scottsdale
Engine Size
305
Hello, I’ve got an 82 scottsdale with the 305 that’s currently experiencing an intermittent overheating issue. It commonly happens when at idle or at low speeds but sometimes it’s just random like for example, i was making a 45 min trip which was mostly downhill sloped freeway and holding about 70mph, and a little over half way there my temperature gauge started to creep up to 5/8ths (mind you it had been holding steady at 1/2 for quite a while no issue). So then i think no problem i’ll just let off the throttle on this big downhill portion and let the momentum carry me and the wind cool down the engine. but instead it keeps rising up and by the time it got past 3/4ths i ended up pulling over and waiting on it to cool down. once it did i ended up just turning around and came straight home and on the way back it held 5/8ths the whole way. Once home i let it sit for a minute and came back out, started it up and sat at idle for about 10 minutes and it didn’t read a bit over 1/2

What’s confusing me is the randomness of it, For example sometimes i can sit at idle fine, and other times it starts to overheat. Sometimes it’ll run cooler on the highway sometimes it’ll overheat on the highway. Sometimes the heater on full blast will bring the temp back down and sometimes it won’t.

Things i’ve already done:
replaced the temp sender,
replaced the temp gauge,
replaced the thermostat (195 degree),
bought a new tube connecting from the air breather to the grill to intake cool air (old one was missing),
burped the system & topped off coolant,
and put some coolant in the reservoir.

I know it’s actually overheating because if it sits high for too long it begins to smoke from under the hood a little bit & the hood gets so hot you could probably fry eggs on it Lol.

The radiator seems to be relatively clean inside and out (fluids bright green & fins don’t appear to be gummed up)

the fan & relating components are all original though but from what i’m able to tell, the fan feels like it still moves air around pretty good.

Any advice on where to go next?
 

Edelbrock

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Earth
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Grumba
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
K5 Blazer
Engine Size
400
1) Check H2O Pump belt tension.
2) Pull radiator cap and check for good coolant flow at "above idle RPM".
3) Check fuel ratio (running lean?)
4) Pull the thermostat out just to confirm that this COMPLETELY solves the problem and runs cold.
5) Reinstall thermostat, and continue trouble shooting.
6) Check to make sure that your engine fan is actually spinning in the correct direction.
7) Check your radiator fan clutch to make sure its not defective /wobbly / leaking oil.
8) Check for radiator blockage (leaves, dirt etc).
9) Try keeping the A/C off to see if that helps.
10) Install an electric pusher or puller fan, which is cheap and easy to do.
 
Last edited:

fast 99

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Spokane, Washington
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Brian
Truck Year
81,85
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
While you suspect overheating is it actually doing so? Didn't mention pushing water out or knocking after shut off. Nearly every time an overheating motor will do both. Infrared heat guns are inexpensive today. Get actual temps not "the hood is hot "as a diagnostic conclusion.
 

DoubleDingo

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81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s
Engine Size
Carb'ed Vortec 350
I'd suspect, if it's original fan clutch then it needs to be replaced. Also, did you check the radiator fins to see if they're blocked by bugs and debris? It wouldn't hurt to collect the clean coolant, remove the radiator and clean it both inside and carefully pick everything from the fins, then replace the fan clutch, and then re-pour the coolant into the system, adding some to the overflow bottle, making sure it's topped off, and then properly burping the system, and then if it can idle for 30 minutes or more without overheating you are golden.
 

Moodyalaskan

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Location
Chugiak, Alaska
First Name
Walter
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
305
Do normal things as mentioned above like coolant level, radiator exterior clean and belts tight. Did you come back from your trip and drive up the same hill? If so, did it overheat on that trip? Going downhill with loose belts and backing off the throttle lowers the rpm and the water pump doesn't turn as fast lowering the flow of the coolant. Was the prevalent wind from the rear, could also be a contributing factor. Has it over heated since? I was taught to increase flow by increasing rpms to see if the temp drops.
 

CountKrunk

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Count
Truck Year
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v8 350
Be a good idea to drain out the coolant and flush the system while youre at this.
 

Ikeece

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Location
Independence, MO
First Name
Hayden
Truck Year
1982
Truck Model
c10 Scottsdale
Engine Size
305
While you suspect overheating is it actually doing so? Didn't mention pushing water out or knocking after shut off. Nearly every time an overheating motor will do both. Infrared heat guns are inexpensive today. Get actual temps not "the hood is hot "as a diagnostic conclusion.
Typically when it’s overheating and i go to shut it off, it sputters for about five seconds or so after i’ve shut it off. I’m pretty sure it actually overheating because of what i just mentioned and the smoking once the gauge reads much past 3/4ths
 

Ikeece

Junior Member
Joined
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Posts
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Location
Independence, MO
First Name
Hayden
Truck Year
1982
Truck Model
c10 Scottsdale
Engine Size
305
1) Check H2O Pump belt tension.
2) Pull radiator cap and check for good coolant flow at "above idle RPM".
3) Check fuel ratio (running lean?)
4) Pull the thermostat out just to confirm that this COMPLETELY solves the problem and runs cold.
5) Reinstall thermostat, and continue trouble shooting.
6) Check to make sure that your engine fan is actually spinning in the correct direction.
7) Check your radiator fan clutch to make sure its not defective /wobbly / leaking oil.
8) Check for radiator blockage (leaves, dirt etc).
9) Try keeping the A/C off to see if that helps.
10) Install an electric pusher or puller fan, which is cheap and easy to do.
I’ll run through this on my next few off days.
 

Hunter79764

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Location
Grand Prairie, TX
First Name
Shawn
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
Suburban V20
Engine Size
350
Did it do this before the new thermostat? Did you do all these things at the same time, and is there any difference in how it acts before and after?

Sticky thermostat was my immediate thought, and I've had new ones that were sticky too, so just because it's new doesn't mean it's perfect, but two in a row doing the same thing isn't common.
 

fast 99

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Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Typically when it’s overheating and i go to shut it off, it sputters for about five seconds or so after i’ve shut it off. I’m pretty sure it actually overheating because of what i just mentioned and the smoking once the gauge reads much past 3/4ths
Yes a hot motor can do that. Called run on and can be very damaging. There are many other causes as well, low octane, high idle speed, if equipped idle solenoid adjusted incorrectly, vacuum leak, just to name a few possibilities. Until the problem is fixed shut the engine off in gear [auto] or let the clutch out to stop the engine.

Quality of replacement thermostats has been questionable for years. Actually many parts. Besides the cost, that's one reason it's not a good idea to shot-gun repairs. A better procedure is actual diagnosis. Try to find an AC Delco, GM, or Delphi stat.
 

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