Transmission Upgrade?

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Bextreme04

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Yep. There’s quite a bit of wind tunnel data shows what happens behind the cab with the tailgate closed vs camper shell. The air clears the rear of the truck more cleanly with an empty bed, tailgate shut. Also, camper shells obviously add more weight.

Back to the thread…

Best case swapping in an auto would be anything with a lockup and OD.

How long will it take to recoup the money spent on the swap, in realized gas savings? That’s the question…
Yep. The lockup is honestly going to be the biggest difference in my mind. The OD gear will make a huge difference on highway driving and will let you cruise much more comfortably for long distances at freeway speeds, but the lockup converter will see efficiency improvements everywhere.

The CHEAPEST option is to pull a 4L80 from a wrecked vehicle in the junkyard, put some new fluid in it, make a full manual control for it, and send it.

For ~$50 more, you can get an 0411 computer and pigtails from the same junkyard(often from the same vehicle) and run tach and TPS signals into it from the engine to get automatic shifting. The line pressure will still be maxed out without a MAF sensor input, but you could always wire one of those up too if you wanted to get the full monty. The 0411 will run full line pressure without MAF because it can't get a real torque model without it, so it will just assume max power all the time to protect the trans. You will get firm shifts, but it shouldn't hurt anything.
 

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Putting a camper shell on it will give you 2 or 3 more MPG on the freeway, as the open bed acts like a big air brake that you engine is always working against. But nothing is going to give you Japanese-like mileage if that's what you are looking for.

J.B.
I don't think so. And btw, what exactly is "Japanese-like mileage"? My "American" GMC Duramax get's an honest 30 mpg and it doesn't even have a camper shell. ;)
 

Ricko1966

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Yep. The lockup is honestly going to be the biggest difference in my mind. The OD gear will make a huge difference on highway driving and will let you cruise much more comfortably for long distances at freeway speeds, but the lockup converter will see efficiency improvements everywhere.

The CHEAPEST option is to pull a 4L80 from a wrecked vehicle in the junkyard, put some new fluid in it, make a full manual control for it, and send it.

For ~$50 more, you can get an 0411 computer and pigtails from the same junkyard(often from the same vehicle) and run tach and TPS signals into it from the engine to get automatic shifting. The line pressure will still be maxed out without a MAF sensor input, but you could always wire one of those up too if you wanted to get the full monty. The 0411 will run full line pressure without MAF because it can't get a real torque model without it, so it will just assume max power all the time to protect the trans. You will get firm shifts, but it shouldn't hurt anything.
I get mixed feelings on full line pressure on the 4l80s I put a post up at one time from a transmission shop that builds 4l80s, he showed and told the damage done running full line pressure,and what pump mods were necessary to make them live a long time. He said full line pressure on a seldom used vehicle or a drag car is one thing. but long term is another. I did lots of research when I got mine,just because I was afraid running full line pressure was going to hurt something. I'll see if I can find the info again. Found it.
 

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Grit dog

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I don't think so. And btw, what exactly is "Japanese-like mileage"? My "American" GMC Duramax get's an honest 30 mpg and it doesn't even have a camper shell. ;)
You have a Colorado right?
Had a baby Dmax last year. Bout my favorite motor/trans combo ever. Same power as a new 5.3, 10speed and an honest 24mpg out of a crew cab half ton 4x4, being driven like a rental car!
300/500 out of a dinky motor bone stock no tune.
If I was buying a new half ton truck for personal use (meaning I pay for the fuel) that would be it.
 

Grit dog

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I get mixed feelings on full line pressure on the 4l80s I put a post up at one time from a transmission shop that builds 4l80s, he showed and told the damage done running full line pressure,and what pump mods were necessary to make them live a long time. He said full line pressure on a seldom used vehicle or a drag car is one thing. but long term is another. I did lots of research when I got mine,just because I was afraid running full line pressure was going to hurt something. I'll see if I can find the info again. Found it.
Great discussion @Bextreme04 and @Ricko1966.
Learned some new things from you guys.
 

Frankenchevy

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I like how this thread brings visibility to the trans community, no matter which trans you choose.

A trans can be brave and resilient, yet simultaneously susceptible to complete self-destruction if mislabeled. If you don’t know what trans someone is selling, be sure to ask. Some 700r4s identify as 4l80s, but you should be careful what you expose them to.

If competing in a class that typically only allows 700r4s, a 4l80 that identifies as a 700r4 will have an obvious advantage, but you shouldn’t point that out, because it could be hurtful.
 

1lejohn

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I get mixed feelings on full line pressure on the 4l80s I put a post up at one time from a transmission shop that builds 4l80s, he showed and told the damage done running full line pressure,and what pump mods were necessary to make them live a long time. He said full line pressure on a seldom used vehicle or a drag car is one thing. but long term is another. I did lots of research when I got mine,just because I was afraid running full line pressure was going to hurt something. I'll see if I can find the info again. Found it.
Agree with your statement. I had issues with the 4l60E in my Camaro. The computer would struggle to get the shift points right at the drag strip. I contacted Rossler transmissions. I sent him the tranny and they put a vacuum control module on it. Problem solved. They might do it for the 80E's. It would be worth a call.
 

82sbshortbed

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I like my 700r4 behind the 454 in my 82. I needed od on the highway and this worked out well for me. Now I'm under 2500 rpm at 65 to 70 with 3.73 rear end and 29" tires. Cost me 2k to get jegs to deliver a brand new one to me. And 400 bucks to pull the old one and put in the 700r4. And I didn't have to mess with it. Some of the best money I have spent on the truck.
 

Ricko1966

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Agree with your statement. I had issues with the 4l60E in my Camaro. The computer would struggle to get the shift points right at the drag strip. I contacted Rossler transmissions. I sent him the tranny and they put a vacuum control module on it. Problem solved. They might do it for the 80E's. It would be worth a call.
You can do it at home,there is actually a kit,drill a hole add a th400 modulator , Transgo. manufactures the kit. It's one way I contemplated going.
 

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Bextreme04

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You can do it at home,there is actually a kit drill a hole add a th400 modulator , Transgo. manufactures the kit. It's one way I contemplated going.
That would probably be the way I'd go if it was me and the trans was going behind a non-efi engine. You can get the 0411 computer and pigtails, run the TPS and engine RPM inputs to get proper shifting(you can also connect a 4lo switch to get proper shifting when in 4wd without having a VSS connected) and then use the Transgo 48-MOD kit to control line pressure. You can get a junkyard 4l80 for ~$200-500 still in most places and you would be into the controller and mods ~$200. You can use an OBDlink tool or OBDXpro tool to do the adjustments to the 0411 and the software to do so is free.

48-MOD
OBDXPro VT
 

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