Starter mounting on a 350

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idahovette

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Again this forum has LOTS of different opinions....which is what makes the world go around.......RIGHT???? AND the OP has gotten a LOT of suggestions, all he has to do is figure out which is gonna work for him?
 

CTxK20

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Thank y'all for all of the information on different ways to fix the problem I am having. I will be getting back under the truck in a week or two to try and see which fix will work the best.
 

AuroraGirl

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If one uses a rear bracket, some metal epoxy or methods you said. AND new bolts. They should be able to be ok. I would say a pg260 upgrade but that would eliminate the ability to take force off the weak spot with the bracket.
I think everyone has lost sight of the O.P.s problem which is he has 1 starter bolt hole broken out. This has morphed into what is everybody's favorite starter,when they have 2 bolt holes.
You missed where I said that I think that your idea is the best because we can use the bracket on the 10mt but you cant on the pg260.

i posted the TSB from delco remy because others 1) seem like they would massivly benefit from reading it 2) So they can source the bolts if they do.
If you put a high torque starter and used OEM bolts you are likely gonna do what the OPs oem has now done just with more torque :badidea:
 

AuroraGirl

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I'm going to be the guy that disagrees with the use of a mini-starter. And if you insist on one, use a factory starter meant for a vortec.

I've got a 65 Impala in the shop right now, with a later 350 in it and headers. I had to get one of those high torque mini-starters cost was about $250 IIRC, so you can get a factory or vortec starter for a lot less.

Also you have a compromised mount, the last thing you need is more torque down there!

And last, you don't get much for changing to a different starter except a little added space. I understand why guys with Chryslers go to starters from magnum engines, because the old stock Chrysler starters turned very slowly and drew a lot of power. With our trucks the original starter, other than being larger were pretty good.

Of course that is just opinion.
a vortect should have gotten a mini starter at least by 97-98 since thats when gm phased out the 5mt and 10mt starters
 

AuroraGirl

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No room, or at least limited room, plus customers preference. I'm not going to say a full size wouldn't fit, but it would be tight, and would definitely require loosening the header to get it into place. It's what he had in there and wants it replaced with. You know how that goes.
Early SBC blocks were weaker or at least were known for being weaker than later sbc blocks
Also if using points on those older engines a R terminal starter is wise to use since it will not ignition while cranking so it wont fight/kick back/resist
 

Ricko1966

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This is a real good read on the differences on chevy starters.
 

Ricko1966

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O.P. best pic I could get,braze that. Use a stud so you can replace the starter in the future. I'd still use a starter with a third mount but that's just me.
 

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RanchWelder

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Strip the parts and find a block. That thing is now junk.
Some people in your town might pay you to come take a good engine block from their property, so put an ad in the paper as a handyman and find a paying customer with a good ol' 350 block, needs hauled away.

An enterprising young man can turn this into a money making opportunity.

When it fails again, you'll bust a tooth off your new ring gear and ruin your new starter, (whichever style you buy) and you'll likely be the furthest from home, you've ever been with your Grandpa's truck... *** Thanks Murphy *** (Grandpa can explain that part to you...)
...and in the end, this block will still be junk.

Possible uses include:
Put your's in the lake to tie your boat up, with a float.
Or, tie your dog up to it, in the back yard...
Paint it and sell it for lawn art...
Turn it into a coffee table...


Good luck...
 

Rusty Nail

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I am wondering if this is something that is able to be fixed or not?
Not really... It's a good way to buy a different block...
Dude that truck kicks azz! Welcome to the site.

Did I skip the part about the starter bracket not fitting to a vortex starter, did we cover that any?

That idea is certainly worth looking into prior to a new block because it IS valid, running a vortex unit all you gotta modify is the cable ends , it is not a bolt on mod.

Good luck - I like your truck.
 

RanchWelder

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If there's one lesson to be learned, whether you are 85 with 20 years left in you, or 18 years old looking at Grandpa's first farm truck:
When is it beyond repair?


When is it just an act of ego... that one shall waste all effort, no matter what the cost...?
(Feel like I'm educating the F-Reserve...)

OK, use Epoxy. Welding is beyond your budget to be done correctly... Yes, I'm positive...
End up getting stuck and, call home for help when it breaks again...

Let's keep it real when we educate a young man's budget... please.

I don't know you Grandpa and I'm 'bout certain you are a good ol' guy, however... "You're engine is STILL JUNK".

-edited for clarity of point...
 
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Ricko1966

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Actually post 9 picture 2 is a piece made to fix this. I was just trying to save you money with a last try see if we can make it work like I did mine. In reality if what I did to mine hadn't got me buy I would build another block before I'd spend 200.00 to fix a broken one,but I can build engine.
 

AuroraGirl

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Actually post 9 picture 2 is a piece made to fix this. I was just trying to save you money with a last try see if we can make it work like I did mine. In reality if what I did to mine hadn't got me buy I would build another block before I'd spend 200.00 to fix a broken one,but I can build engine.
or manual transmission swap
 

CTxK20

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A manual transmission swap would not fix my problem with mounting the starter.
 

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