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[Grit dog]

The engine does run great.
And I don't have to paint the motor, but occasionally the wife and I hit the cruise in's and folks like to see the engine bay.
But this was my real reason for pulling the motor besides fixing leaks.
The prevous owner applied multiple layers of Ziebart undercoating on everything.
I can barely check the oil without ruining a shirt and if I pull the tranny dipstick, I'm schmutzed. 47 years later, the truck still drips undercoating on the core support and else where.
I was wanting to clean some of that off the motor.
There is no doubt, I will have to strip down on the back porch before entering house each time.
I picked up some nice aluminum accessory brackets and chrome pulleys. (they were cheap at summit)
All that on a gunked up motor is just too "shade tree - hold my beer, watch this" for me....I do have some dignity....left....lol

It’s all a rabbit hole but will look great when done. Clean that crap off of everything when the engine is out. Including frame/suspension, etc. Repaint all the under hood body and chassis. Black everywhere but the firewall. Get a half pint of your color and redo the firewall unless it polishes up nice.
You’ll easily have as much work in cleaning, de schmutzing and painting as removing the engine but it’s cheap to do just hours of work.
Assuming you’re keepin the truck for a while, you’ll get alot of mileage figuratively and literally out of doing it all right. Something I haven’t done to either square due to available time and vehicle downtime. (Yes the squares are not needed as daily’s at all but I’d be at it for months of evenings and sparse weekend time to accomplish that.)
I don’t pop the hood at car shows but you’ll be able to with pride if you dooo all that!!

 

[hey mister]

It’s all a rabbit hole but will look great when done. Clean that crap off of everything when the engine is out. Including frame/suspension, etc. Repaint all the under hood body and chassis. Black everywhere but the firewall. Get a half pint of your color and redo the firewall unless it polishes up nice.
You’ll easily have as much work in cleaning, de schmutzing and painting as removing the engine but it’s cheap to do just hours of work.
Assuming you’re keepin the truck for a while, you’ll get alot of mileage figuratively and literally out of doing it all right. Something I haven’t done to either square due to available time and vehicle downtime. (Yes the squares are not needed as daily’s at all but I’d be at it for months of evenings and sparse weekend time to accomplish that.)
I don’t pop the hood at car shows but you’ll be able to with pride if you dooo all that!!

I have no doubt the multi layers of undercoating is what has saved this truck. Spent it's entire life in NEOhio...aka, salt capitol of the world.
The front rockers need attention, but that's it.
If I rub off all the undercoating, I get down to factory paint, even on the frame...black semi gloss black factory paint.
It is incredible.
I curse the guy for doing it and then thank him.
I am so lucky and grateful to have this survivor.

 

[hey mister]

Yes, I do plan on keeping this truck for the rest of my life.

 

[Grit dog]

I have no doubt the multi layers of undercoating is what has saved this truck. Spent it's entire life in NEOhio...aka, salt capitol of the world.
The front rockers need attention, but that's it.
If I rub off all the undercoating, I get down to factory paint, even on the frame...black semi gloss black factory paint.
It is incredible.
I curse the guy for doing it and then thank him.
I am so lucky and grateful to have this survivor.

For sure! And especially rare back in the salt belt!!
Fwiw, sounds like the coating on yours is still actively “oily”, but the petroleum based undercoating someone applied half assed on the 86 wasn’t coming off easy. It would have been a bear to remove and just hours of dirty work just to have the bed and frame look perfect underneath. I said fck it and just painted over it when I painted chassis stuff. The paint sealed it up and has shown no signs of coming off for 4 years now.
Idk if there any hard crusty stuff on your truck. It’s basically asphalt binder. Sure smelled like paving a road when when I heated and scraped some off before abandoning that level of OCD in favor of moving forward with the job.

 

[hey mister]

For sure! And especially rare back in the salt belt!!
Fwiw, sounds like the coating on yours is still actively “oily”, but the petroleum based undercoating someone applied half assed on the 86 wasn’t coming off easy. It would have been a bear to remove and just hours of dirty work just to have the bed and frame look perfect underneath. I said fck it and just painted over it when I painted chassis stuff. The paint sealed it up and has shown no signs of coming off for 4 years now.
Idk if there any hard crusty stuff on your truck. It’s basically asphalt binder. Sure smelled like paving a road when when I heated and scraped some off before abandoning that level of OCD in favor of moving forward with the job.

Mine smells like cosmoline, and yes it's still a very thick tacky liquid.
I have been able to closely replicate the stuff.
A 50/50 mix of mil-spec cosmoline and toilet bowl wax. Heated up to a thin mix then applied with a brush. It never hardends. It just gets thick and sticky.
Mil-spec cosmoline is not cheap.

 

[Catbox]

I have faith in you.
If my 21 year old at the time poop head can do it, so can you.
This is his 1949 truck he has done all the engine swapping stuff on his own for the most part.

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[hey mister]

Well...I had my wife do a quick search for an engine stand and found a local one for dirt cheap.
That cinched it for me. I had set $50 as my lmit and this one was well under that.
So I came home and got going on the "big yank".

First off, I made up a sling for the hood and used a block and tackle to lift it off the truck, then the wife backed the truck up and gently lowered it to the ground.
Then the batteries came out.
Drained oil and coolant.
Removed, alt, p/s, water pump and carb.
Tomorrow the rad will come out, then the headers.
The rest of the wires then the flex plate and motor mounts.
Lord willing, the motor will be out by this time tomorrow.

I can't believe how nasty the water pump is.

 

[hey mister]

Here is some of the undercoating.

 

[Grit dog]

Here is some of the undercoating.

Yuck, wtf? And it’s sprayed all over where they DONT rust out…..
Well I’d start collecting folks’ old boat gas. A pile of rags and 5 gal can of gasoline should do the trick!
You’re making good progress. Don’t forget to label wires and hoses and bag/tag bolts since it’ll be a minute before you reassemble.

 

[hey mister]

Yuck, wtf? And it’s sprayed all over where they DONT rust out…..
Well I’d start collecting folks’ old boat gas. A pile of rags and 5 gal can of gasoline should do the trick!
You’re making good progress. Don’t forget to label wires and hoses and bag/tag bolts since it’ll be a minute before you reassemble.

Bag and tag.....and the wife wonders why we go thru ziplock bags so quickly.

As for the ziebart, the cab has 8 holes drilled just in the roof. The stuff runs down the inside "A" posts. And the back corners are just as messy as the engine bay.

 

[Ricko1966]

Bag and tag.....and the wife wonders why we go thru ziplock bags so quickly.

As for the ziebart, the cab has 8 holes drilled just in the roof. The stuff runs down the inside "A" posts. And the back corners are just as messy as the engine bay.

A little trick for your or someone else's bag and tag session. Real good trick for people without good memory of how things came apart, label everything 1,2,3 4 etc. Going back together you start with 26,25,24,23 etc. It goes back,just like it came apart.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I prefer the puzzle of getting stuff back together without any labeling after many months of sitting. Just throw it all in a big box.

 

[hey mister]

Not bragging...it's just me.
I kinda have an eidetic memory for things mechanical.
I'm bagging bolts just to have them together...not labeling or numbering.
When I was playing with first gen Goldwings, I had a bucket of bolts from them.
You could pull a bolt out of the bucket and I could tell you where to stick it...lol
Seriously, I could tell you where it went.
I'm using orange masking tape just to tag ends of wires and such, just so I can spot them...I have a habit of tucking them in out of the way nooks and crannys.

 

[hey mister]

So, I have a question for those who have been there-done this....
The header motor flange is 3/8" SS. As you can see in the picture, cyl 4&6 are leaking. And reardless of the bolts used, the flange gets hot and expands away from the motor....of course it would. And I had been told this is usually an issue.
So here's my ???
If I cut thru the thinner web area between the exhaust ports...i.e. (see red line)... between #2 and #4...and #6 and #8, is those now "free floating" 3 pieces going to behave them selves or twist up even worse?

Thanks.

 

[hey mister]

My other thought was to take a grinder and "thin" out the area at the red line.
They would still be connected, but now the area of "give/flex" is away from the ports.
And here's my reasoning.
The material at the ports is very thin compared to that bar spanning between the ports. That bar has a greater expansion distance because of it's length.
And there is one on each side of 4/6. Double whammy...