Pressure Brake Bleeding Question

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Kilian

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Hey folks, got a question on bleeding the brakes on my 83 GMC 3/4 ton. I've replaced all of the brake lines as part of my project and now looking to bleed things in preparation to getting the truck in motion. When I read the shop manual, the bleeding procedure seems like it's going to take two people and a lot of time to push pedal, hold, crack the bleeder screw, tighten screw, wait, repeat, etc.

There's a section in the shop manual about pressure bleeding using a special tool. The PNs given show up on ebay (J-26819 and related). Has anyone tried it using this tool or something similar? Sounds like it will keep the fluid flowing and not require the pedal push, etc. Any help would be appreciated as I don't want to spend days bleeding.

In case the question comes up, I've replaced the MC and bench bled it before installing to make sure there is no air in the MC pistons. I also have the special tool to use in the proportional valve up front to make sure that front/rear lines can be bled. Thanks!
 

legopnuematic

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I just borrowed a friends motive pressure bleeder, like a weed sprayer jug, and a large aluminum plate that clamps onto the master (or appropriate adapter for other types of masters).

Fill it with 2qts of fluid, pump to 15psi and crack each bleeder until solid flow, release pressure from jug and remove from master and that’s about it.

A good way to do it solo, better than vacuum imo as most bleeders leak too much at the threads to get a good read.
 

straydog371

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I use a "Motive Power Bleeder"
Picked it up on Amazon for around $80.
Plenty of YouTube videos showing how to use it.
 

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Do you also use the type with the aluminum plate that clamps on the master cylinder?
 

straydog371

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Yep, it's a bit fiddly to get it set up.
Pump it up to 10 PSI or so and make sure it holds pressure before opening any bleeders.
It works slick!

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legopnuematic

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@straydog371 my buddy that I borrowed his unit from, when I asked about the chains and hooks he said he ditched them and uses a large c clamp.

That is what I did when I used it and no issues with it sealing to the master.
 

straydog371

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Great idea and thanks for that tip!
 

Ricko1966

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I have a Snap On one I bought 40? years ago made a more modern one a few years ago cheap. I've also bleed clutch slaves 1 man by attaching a vaccum hose to the bleeder nipple and hooking it to the intake manifold. Start the truck, let it idle, crack the bleeder. When the idle changes its getting fluid. Tighten the bleeder and move on. Have often thought of buying a spool of nylon tubing , put short rubber couplers on each end and having the world's most bad ass vacuum bleeder. I prefer 2 man to pressure bleeder, if I have I helper available. One time deal I'd 2 man them. Build a cheap one man bleeder copying a performance tool one man bleeder, or vacuum bleed them. I'll post a link to a homemade 1 man and tell you how to improve it, if you decide to build it.
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YakkoWarner

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I have a Snap On one I bought 40? years ago made a more modern one a few years ago cheap. I've also bleed clutch slaves 1 man by attaching a vaccum hose to the bleeder nipple and hooking it to the intake manifold. Start the truck, let it idle, crack the bleeder. When the idle changes its getting fluid. Tighten the bleeder and move on. Have often thought of buying a spool of nylon tubing , put short rubber couplers on each end and having the world's most bad ass vacuum bleeder. I prefer 2 man to pressure bleeder, if I have I helper available. One time deal I'd 2 man them. Build a cheap one man bleeder copying a performance tool one man bleeder, or vacuum bleed them. I'll post a link to a homemade 1 man and tell you how to improve it, if you decide to build it.
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I always wanted to try (but don't have anywhere near the kind of spare cash to buy) an aviation-style bleed system. From what I've seen on TV, planes bleed in reverse where you draw out the contents of the master, put pressurized fluid to the fitting down at the wheel and when the master is full again you're done. It pushes any and all air up and out thru the master with a very strong potential for making a fantastic mess on the cockpit floor if you don't watch the master carefully.

I'm always on the lookout for better ways to do solo bleeding, since I only have me, myself and I to do the work (and 2 of them are slackers who do nothing). I'll keep this intake suction trick in mind, the logic is sound as long as you can get enough suction to overcome the leakage at the bleeder threads (or pack some kind of removable putty around them to seal up better maybe?). I never could get the little hand Mity-Vac style vacuum pumps to do much for bleeding because they can't suck fast enough to overcome the air leaking in around the threads.
 

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