Options for tuning of Gen1 TBI in 2023

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gmbellew

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Right, but allowed you to use blue tooth and phone vs laptop?

I use my phone with ALDLDroid and a Bluetooth OBD1 connector. you can export the csv files to your email and open in excel and save as an excel file.
 

mibars

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Let's restart this thread :)
I've learned that in GMT400 TBI it is possible to convert from PROM memory to EEPROM using some adapter and you can even datalog via the ALDL port using TumerPro, as found in this thread:

Does any of you know if this same approach would work in a 1990 V1500 5.7 TBI?

What I understand is that I need an adapter like one of these:

Couple of 27SF512 memory chips (or a compatible one)

Plus a chip reader/writer

An ALDL 12 PIN cable like this:

Has any of you tried playing with TBI and have comments on the above?
 

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Not yet. I have the obd diagnostics 12pin to USB. I wanted to go in the dynamic-efi direction, but sadly Bob (Robert) passed away.
I plan on running aldl Droid to see where she is at. I'm expecting what tuning I may need will be done old school. If I see ( or think I do) eeprom seems like a better way to go.
There are tuners as noted above if you want to tune and move on.
For me the idea was to play and learn, and prep me for future efi tuning. Practically...back to the rabbit hole.
 

mibars

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Wow, I was seriously considering that Flash 2 ECU, with a major drawback of having to ship an ECU for conversion. Sad to hear that.

But you got me reading on the ALDLdroid, that's one more interesting option to consider.

Speaking of my goals: I just want to try to tinker with engine management and see what can be done, maybe there are some HPs hiding and this will enable any possibility to do actual mechanical mods to the engine
 

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Yes I thought the ebl flash 2 would be efficient you can send logs and files back and forth to someone etc. not chips. I'm guessing you could do that with the eprom but not as easily. You have some tuners over there?
Look at megasquirt also.
At this point I'm hoping data tells me we didn't change enough, but we did mild (stockish) roller cam and compression.
 

Ricko1966

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Have you all checked out motes.net, take a look,more than once, it's one of those deals where there are so many things to look at and they don't just jump out and appear. It's click read go back click read continue.
 
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mibars

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Have you all checked out motes.net
Yes, and for now the option with that all in one ALDL-reader, chip reader/burner, which also includes a memory emulator sounds like the best way to go, however bit pricey & currently out of stock. Especially the emulator function is tempting, you can fine tune the engine as you drive.

TBI Chips burns OEM chips.
That is what I want to avoid. You give your vehicle spec and they burn a chip based on their best assumptions. It's basically a sophisticated guessing with no feedback loop, I'd compare it to selecting and jetting a carburetor based on engine specification and with no further adjustment. You may hit it spot on, but maybe your exhaust flows different or whatever and the AFR is off?
 

RanchWelder

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Not exactly. The Eprom mod is old technology.
Using the ultra-violate OEM chip is DOT safe and a much better CAN Buss integrtion.
OEM ECM's are better than aftermarket units, as well.

All that complicated stuff never really worked out for a whole lot of builders, or you'd see it everwhere on here. You don't.

They had bad batches of chips, bad soldered boards, bad capacitors, and a long list of self inflicted errors. You can brick those chips and the custom board easily with static or a bad ground. When you need a new unit, the OEM unit won't work, so your back to square 1. $700.

Unless you're trying to force 500 HP out of your stock GM casting, your tune will be very close the first time, if you verify everything else is in order. The burned OEM chip is the way to go.

The problem starts when you blame the chip tune and have a bad harness or knock sensor or bad injector, leaking o-rings in OEM fuel lines, pin holes in exhaust at the O2, etc.
That's where the "story"takes a turn and customer support gets frustrating.

One of the better companies, will not even sell you an ECM without buying a new harness. Affordable EFI.

When you learn the risk involved with sophisticated tuning software and the hazzard of tweaking the settings without years of experiance with ANY tuning software, you learn the engine can be smoked very easily with a few "easy to make" mistakes.

The do it yourself systems are not DOT certified and are sold as STRICTLY OFF ROAD USE, when you read the fine print.

Holley Sniper is good, however a mild 350-388cu will run better using smaller injectors. The 100lb ers' are not what you want to be within operating range. 50-75 max.
So there's another $400 for quality low impedance units...

You cannot use 800 cfm in a 380-425 hp small block as efficiently as you can a 46mm bored out TBI. 640-660 cfm works great.

The cost savings gets you new pigtails and quality ACDelco sensors.

The Summit EFI unit looks OK, yet it's still $900.00. No Harness.

Your OBD1 is $65 all day on eBay.
TBI Burn Chip is $350. UPS ground in 3 days most places, *except Poland.
46mm bored unit. $250

Put your money elsewhere. Rods, pistons, camshaft, headers, suspension.

Buy a spare OEM OBD1, with a good spare chip.
Burn that one to match and keep it in a padded 50Cal ammo can under the hood.

If the sun burns your unit, your faraaday cage will save your backup for at least 1 get-away.

Tuning looks cool on youtube vids but the genius tuning it cost $350/hr. to rent.

It's as close to rocket science as you can get.
Computer Driver's, coms wires, hundreds of settings to screw up, downloading base maps from the internet? Seriously?
Not in my home computer.

In my case, swapping transmissions takes the 700R4 out of the OBD1 programming entirely. I have a Compushift 2 stand alone transmission controller. Your system might require the transmission needs to carefully match the RPM range, fuel map and the timing curve, from within the OBD1. OBD1 already controls your 700R4 lock up.

The stand alone TCU is $1200.00. (get what you pay for with them too).

Here's a few examples of what small mistakes can do.
Spark advance can hit you hard. Way too hard.
That's if you have a Dyno. Do you have one?
This is why you send 2 chips and have him send you as you learn.

Here's a great warning Video, for DIY programming WITH a Dyno and he's telling people (with a dyno) not to blow up thier engines?
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The next video is extreme, yet the money shock when everything is ruined and your wallet is burned, get's the point across. (*This might be a set-up, because the guy running the dyno starts to duck early in the vid).

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Whatever you do, avoid the MSD electronic spark box.
OBD1 and EFI ONLY. The "Turkey Baster" will make diagnostics a nightmare.

Mailing your chip saves you money and gets an expert tune the right way.
My suggestion is pay the nice man the money, drive with a spare ECM, and rest assured with millions of parts laying around to rebuild it cheap WHEN you screw it up.

I used to build complex theatrical automation, rigging systems and shoot film and TV.
Repaired thousands of moving lights, audio systems, load tested hundreds of chain hoists.

It looks cool to run around with $5 MilUS cameras and $500K lenses, until you drop one or blow it up with "special effects".

My humble opinion, resist the urge to tune, unless you have a lot of extra money to burn up at the dyno.

You probably don't want to hear that, right?
 
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mibars

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Thank you for that write-up, it gives some perspective on what I'm considering doing.
 

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