M122 blown 5.3 in my 99 silveraydo

[Vbb199]

That’s pretty impressive. I feel like a complete Luddite with my 388 build.

Honest question- what’s the chance of diagnosing a problem on the side of the road with all of the harness work, repinning, etc? Just curious. It’s all so custom that I was wondering about that.

One thing is for sure though (and some of this is just anxiety of a new build and hoping that the machine shop had their sh!t together and I also didn’t make any mistakes) that the next thing would be an LS/4L80 swap if I window the side of the block. With the modern architecture, it’s too easy to consider.

Honestly, i used to not be a fan of all this wiring and sensors, but its pretty cool I guess.

Coming from a background that started with carb and TBI and has progressed, its neat.
Again I dont know if i'd be putting an LS in my squarebody, and if it got anymore advanced than gen 3/4, or non chevrolet I would be out of my element.

This is my first LS powered truck build. Ive tuned plenty, rode in plenty, drove many, but never owned one.


To answer the question about custom stuff and compatibility and being on the side of the road... I do get that concern and honestly, im not too worried about electrical gremlins since I went wire-by-wire on the whole harness with a multimeter. So that main engine harness presumably has great integrity, and its been re-wrapped, new grounds have been ran... ive got ridiculous redundant grounding going on. My prayers are that I have no issues.... because I was so meticulous and soldered every joint and heat shrinked almost every connection

Theres always the concern basic stuff might fail though.... perhaps I will get a little truck toolbox with a spare fuel pump, spare intercooler pump, spare coils and plug wires... aside from that, theres not much hope lol

 

[Hunter79764]

Ever heard of a bistable, single coil latching relay?

I hadnt. Until I googled, tbh.


HOW I HAVE THIS SETUP goes like this >>>>

When i press "tow haul" , it still sends a momentary (-) to the transmission and my p59, which will stilll switch strategies.

But it also sends a momentary (-) to the bistable relay, which will "latch" a solid (-) or (+) of your choosing.

You activate the momentary ground again, it unlatches
The holley terminator sees that "latched" circuit, and what it will do with it is change how the supercharger's boost bypass valve behaves thru -pwm. A totally seperate PWM map i program.

So when a button press i can have race truck, or back to halfway reasonable with another button press.

I love what you're doing with this. Does the latching relay retain it's position when power is removed? i.e., if you have activated Tow/Haul and then turn the truck off, the factory system "forgets" that you were in Tow and defaults back to the regular shift map. Have you made sure your latching relay will do the same?

I've got some similar but very different hackery planned for high idle/cruise control on mine, very different uses and goals, but similar thread of looking at stuff that the factory has done, then advancing it to be even more...

 

[Vbb199]

I love what you're doing with this. Does the latching relay retain it's position when power is removed? i.e., if you have activated Tow/Haul and then turn the truck off, the factory system "forgets" that you were in Tow and defaults back to the regular shift map. Have you made sure your latching relay will do the same?

I've got some similar but very different hackery planned for high idle/cruise control on mine, very different uses and goals, but similar thread of looking at stuff that the factory has done, then advancing it to be even more...

Honestly my buddy brought up the same concern to me and my hope is that putting the little latching relay on switched 12v+ (pink) will kill it

I guess if its still polarized I may have to look into other options.

I plan once all the electrical is done to hook up a battery, key on, engine off, and go along and test each peripheral in the chain, which includes all 4 outputs and the 3 inputs, and all the sensors needed for functionality

Laptop will be open so I can see feedback on the holley and P59 I hope.

 

[Vbb199]

The diode i needed finally arrived so I soldered that into the bbv circuit that when I shut the key off any energy remaining in the solenoid discharges thru the diode instead of back thru the holley (-pmw) circuit.

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Tackled my knock circuit... mounting a gen 4 sensor in the front drivers corner, grounding it nearby, and then protecting it in that lava rock sheathing or whatever.




Over on the passenger side of the motor i wanted to run the sensor towards the rear corner , so i swiveled the crank sensor over like 45° and made a little bracket to still hold it in place, but free up that bolt hole so I could stick a knock sensor there.

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It was a success on my engine stand 4.8 so I implemented it on my 5.3 in the truck, and went ahead and also wrapped the crank sensor and starter trigger wire in lava wrap too.

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Now I aint gotta worry about red hot logs cooking any wires in half, AND I have knock sensors! Whoo hoo lol

 

[Vbb199]

All that finally remains electrically is 3 relays over by my mini fuse bus I installed, and my radio

 

[Vbb199]

My ICT billet ps/alt bracket that spaces truck accessories to car / LSA spacing arrived today... I had it on and connected in <2hr .

Nice fitment. Nice quality machining.

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The truck pump was hole sawed on the pulley so that made it easy too lol

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All I needed was a different ps line I had in stock, and its connected and done. Just need a belt.

 

[bucket]

My ICT billet ps/alt bracket that spaces truck accessories to car / LSA spacing arrived today... I had it on and connected in <2hr .

Nice fitment. Nice quality machining.

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The truck pump was hole sawed on the pulley so that made it easy too lol

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All I needed was a different ps line I had in stock, and its connected and done. Just need a belt.

I love the hole saw... but I would absolutely have to make one on the other side to "balance it out" lol.

 

[Vbb199]

So i was up late trying to get a secondary pwm map worked out for the supercharger but as it turns out the holley can only do 1 PWM per output wire.

***


So i looked into other options. We R smurt-er

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I learned how it functions factory.

If the solenoid receives no power, the mechanical diaphragm's spring pushes the Actuator closed, so the valve is shut.

Engine vacuum draws against the stop so that when cruising or when idling, the valve is opened. Engine vacuum defeats the spring.


The purpose in the solenoid is to allow boost pressure thats sent thru it to help manipulate the diaphragm faster.

So mechanically it functions as is with no electricity just fine. But thats not what i want for my tow haul mode.


So im using a MAC valve.

The engine vacuum/boost will be ported directly to the top of the diaphragm and the bottom left vented.

That is then controlled over -pwm thru the holley.

So i can have low boost and ramp it in slowly when tow haul is off

When I press tow haul, it shuts off the -pwm circuit to the MAC valve, the remaining current is discharged thru the 1N4004 diode, and then the top of the diaphragm is venting to atmosphere (port 1) so that the spring in there shuts the valve, and the motor lives in boost.



This is how I will have two modes, in its final form.

 

[Vbb199]

Didnt really take a pic but I built a to length harness for the intercooler pumps (power, ground, trigger wire with plugs) and harness for the E-fans, and integrated those into the truck, with relays, and appropriate fused 12v power at my mini fuse bus.


Just need e fans from a tahoe, my connectors will plug right in. The fans drop right on my radiator .

I need truck radiator hoses

Coolant, fresh oil , filter, fuel filter



Sanity check for hardware on both ECUs.... then its time to crank it up

 

[Vbb199]

Mac valve came today so I made a little plug with a diode for it

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Integrated it into the truck using the old solenoid bracket.

So fresh, so clean.

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