LWB driveshaft question

[82SquareBurb]

Anyone with a long wheelbase truck/Suburban running a one piece driveshaft? I snagged a 5" .125" wall unit out of a 2013 2500 Silverado for a deal. My hope is to have a local shop shorten/balance it to the ~70 inches I need and delete on the 2 piece drive shaft setup in my C10 Suburban.

I think @xm20k runs a 5" in his rig, was curious if any long wheelbase trucks are running one and if this is a solid solution for max towing power/ HD use. Looking for insight, as I fear the steel 2 pc setup will fail, just by how janky the carrier bearing mounts. Looking for ideas. Thx!

 

[legopnuematic]

Both my 76 and 79 C10's, both LWB (and both TH350's) are factory 1pc drive shafts. The 85 C10 (305/TH350) I had parted out was also a 1pc shaft.

 

[1lejohn]

85 K 10 one piece steel shaft. Was a 700R , now a 350. No problems

 

[83K31003]

‘80~’88 K-30’s with a regular cab and a fleetside bed SRW & DRW ran a two joint slip yoke shaft setup that was steel but only 4” diameter ( and thinner wall ).
Crew Cabs and longer wheelbase Cab Chassis’ used a 3 joint carrier bearing shaft setup but not the 131.5” W/B K-30’s of those year models.

And plenty of 4WD K10/20 LWB Squares in the seventies utilized a two jointed type rear shaft.
Most K-10’s were 3-1/2” diameter and’73~’75 K-20’s were 4-1/2” diameter.
There were some later seventies models that used a three jointed type carrier bearing setup with smaller diameter tubes but your big aluminum 5” diameter thick walled shaft should work just fine.

HTH’s, Tom