K20 Suburban Flaming River tilt column (also Wolff Engineering bearing)

[saltdog]

Decided to swap out the Rag Joint with a Lares 200 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lsc-200), but when taking off the steering shaft, the lower column bearing came with it.
I only saw one post about the Wolff Engineering bearing https://www.wolffeng.com/store/p2/M109SS_Lower_Steering_Column_Cartridge_Bearing.html
Wondered if other folks have gone this route?
Also- that D shaft is damn tight, almost like it was pinched in place. Any secret to getting in back on the column?

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[saltdog]

The Wolff bearing is awesome- way better than stock. Easy install, great instructions and super silky.

 

[GMC_Nick]

The Wolff bearing is awesome- way better than stock. Easy install, great instructions and super silky.

Awesome, just picked up one of these the other day and wondered if I wasted my money or not. Is that a borgeson shaft as well? thought about getting one with a U joint in place of the rag joint.

 

[saltdog]

@GMC_Nick it is and its great! But I'm about yank my column as the plastic keeper inside the lower internal shaft (part 41) is broken. Its still snug and likely would be fine- BUT if the inside lower shaft separates from upper shaft esp at hiway speed then game over. Too old to game it

 

[Camar068]

following

 

[saltdog]

Ordered a Flaming River column (https://www.flamingriver.com/catalo...lt-column-black-powdercoat-finish/category/2/) and it came overnight- pricy but nice- does not have the cruise control option, but I never used that anyway so now can clean up the engine bay. Pulled the OEM column today and removed that awesome Wolff bearing (let me know if you want to buy it- it has zero miles). Drilled the new shaft for the Borgeson ujoint and tapped it- fits great!

 

[saltdog]

The upper rubber that covers the space to instrument panel is a bit loose, but the bottom seal fits great as did the OEM shifter linkage grommet. Electrics look spot on except the neutral switch (pin outs are different- OEM wont work either). Will post more as I work it in.

Neutral switch connection for the trans, I just bent the OEM keeper tab out of the way and it fits fine. For the reverse lights, I used a plumbers mini- hack saw to cut the OEM connector down the middle and was able put the two wires where they need to be. Its a shame they didn't just use a stock switch. They also use stainless pan head machine screws and washers which are a pain to fit while under the dash. I used a short rubber hose to hold the screw and washer until started.

When connecting the shift linkage, I had to remove the pan head machine screws and washers and rotate the connection, refit the shift arm then slightly adjust the linkage at the trans. Not hard, just irritating for a column that's supposed to be direct replacement fit. The Flaming river column also does not have the lock plate to lock the steering wheel in place which is disappointing and was not mentioned anywhere.

 

[Camar068]

I was really close to buying one, but I reminded myself that the issue I had with mine coming loose was because the previous owner didn't install the stock replacement correctly. So I, not knowing any better, installed it the same way. Same issue. After I looked at it and figured out the issue, I've not had any play.

Gonna stick with stock

 

[txaggie]

Ordered a Flaming River column (https://www.flamingriver.com/catalo...lt-column-black-powdercoat-finish/category/2/) and it came overnight- pricy but nice- does not have the cruise control option, but I never used that anyway so now can clean up the engine bay. Pulled the OEM column today and removed that awesome Wolff bearing (let me know if you want to buy it- it has zero miles). Drilled the new shaft for the Borgeson ujoint and tapped it- fits great!

I’m about to install a borgeson u joint shaft. Is this necessary to have this Wolff bearing at install as well?

 

[saltdog]

@txaggie, you can install a borgeson u-joint shaft without doing anything else. In my case the upper shaft plastic shear pin separated when removing the old shaft. I had to use a hammer to get the old lower shaft off.

 

[saltdog]

I was able to get everything hooked up and working, but the Flaming River canceling cam requires modification so the stock wheel and horn will work. It is way too tall and the contact wire wont work for stock.

To modify, first place the cam and spacer under the stock wheel. Next, measure and mark the cam tower at the height where horn buckling spring contact is. Cut the tower just slightly below the contact area so the plastic wont interfere with the buckling spring but is still tall enough to insulate the contact button. Get 7MM copper rod on Amazon and make a button about 1/2 to 5/8 inch long. Install the button spring and test the contact and make sure it moves freely and has good electrical connection. Test fit to the wheel to make sure it wont interfere with the buckling spring. When you are sure its good, fit the cam and spacer onto the column then install wheel. With wheel in place, Install the spring, then the copper button, then install the horn. You don't need the contact pin retainer as the buckling spring holds all in place.

 

[Conly]

I'm having the same issues with my Flaming river column install. WHat about the ground wire inside of the cam tower? Is it needed, if so where does it attach?

Also there's no way to attach the gear shift indicator? Were you able to get your connected? I was planning on making something up to attach the cable/clamp to the column sleeve. I have a couple of ideas but if you have already figured it out....

 

[Conly]

Any help is appreciated.

 

[bucket]

Am I missing something? What is the point in using a Flaming River column in our trucks? Seems like a lot of trouble and expense to go to, just to lose several features, be harder to work on and still not make the truck drive any better.

 

[saltdog]

I agree with @bucket and would not ever use one of these again. @Conly I attached the shift indicator wire using the old column screw clip and screwing it to the column sleeve that moves with the shifter. It sorta worked OK for a number of months, but was sloppy since the geometry is slightly different and has now failed. Think the ground wire is for after market wheels and I used stock. With a stock wheel, the turn signal lever is way too short so I had to buy a Dorman one-grrr. Will rebuild my stock column when I get around to it.