Just want to make shure im reinstalling new control arms correctly.

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randomTruckKid

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I had a few questions abt my control arms. The last ones were screwed up and someone had welded bolts as shims to the frame for the passenger upper.

My new control arms don't have the bolts and rubber on the ends like the original? I also can't turn the rod that attaches the control arms to the truck and allows them to move. (Sorry forgot the term)

I also can't move the ball joints around. I'm assuming that's all good however? You want it to be like that?

I haven't installed balljoint to upper yet I've got to find a torque wrench.
 

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ali_c20

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This control arms are for 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. The ball joints are different in size for C10 and C20/30 trucks. They don't work on a C10 Truck.
Control arm shaft can not be rotated by hand. Insert a big screwdriver and they should move. If they don't move loosen the big nuts and adjust the rods and retighten after installation.
The ball joints should be hard to move but they should move with some force.

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randomTruckKid

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This control arms are for 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. The ball joints are different in size for C10 and C20/30 trucks. They don't work on a C10 Truck.
Control arm shaft can not be rotated by hand. Insert a big screwdriver and they should move. If they don't move loosen the big nuts and adjust the rods and retighten after installation.
The ball joints should be hard to move but they should move with some force.

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Ah. I didn't try too hard to move it since the last time I worked on the truck I was sick.

How can you tell they are for a c20 not c10? They were orderd for c10 and are almost identical to the originals.
 

ali_c20

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I have a C20 and my control arms look exactly like the ones in your pictures. The upper control arms are identical except the bushings and ball joints, the lower ones have different stamping for the shaft with the nuts. Try If the ball joints fit into your spindles.

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ChuckN

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If you’re looking for new stock lower control arms, last time I looked, LMC had the license for them and that’s the only place you’ll find them. Upper control arms are easy to find.

It’s one reason I went with CPP lower control arms.
 

TotalyHucked

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Yep, those are C20 LCAs. C10 LCAs look nothing like that. Nobody repops C10 lowers, your options are to either go tubular or rebuild yours. And let me tell you, I've done 2 sets now and it's a MOTHER to rebuilt them
 

randomTruckKid

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I'm guessing they wouldn't fit even with c10 ball joints on them?
 

randomTruckKid

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Well I tested the upper and lower w/ new spindle and it fits thankfully

But here is a new issue.
We have to swap out the bolts for the upper on the passanger side here since last person screwed it up. How do I get the bold back in? I get it put since I got to grind the weld off. But the space between what I guess is the motor mount and the hole is too small to fit a new bolt(we think) so how can I get new bold in?
 

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ByrdDog

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May have to take the motor mounts loose & jack up the motor for clearance
 

ltdmstr

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Yep, those are C20 LCAs. C10 LCAs look nothing like that. Nobody repops C10 lowers, your options are to either go tubular or rebuild yours. And let me tell you, I've done 2 sets now and it's a MOTHER to rebuilt them

As stated above, LMC makes C10 lowers. I can verfiy that's correct because I just bought a pair about a month ago. They look good. Just like the Moog stuff. Probably made by the same manufacturer in Taiwan.
 

randomTruckKid

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I got the driver side almost completely assembled. We still need to do the spinning part. But we are still having to shim the upper control arm way out. "1 - 1.5" Like the previous people had to do.
So am i missing some facrtory part or is this just how its going to be?
Also on the passanger side we finally found out why the bolt was welded in.

The bolt move around quite alot on that side. So what's the best way to fix that? We were just assuming do the same thing as last owner and just weld the bolt to the frame?

I don't have image with new bolt sorry.
 

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Bennyt

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When you say bolt, are you using the correct stud, which I believe is serrated or are you using just a Grade 8 off the shelf?

There are washer/ spacers that go on before you shim but I feel like they are about 1/4". Something is definitely wrong if you are having to put 1" of shims in. If the springs are cut, I could see you having to put a lot of shims in though.

Also some shafts are offset so turning 180 might get you closer.

I'm still confused as to why you are putting C20 arms in on a C10?

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