CPP Upper Control Arms and Shims

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lasvegas76C10

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Rudy
Truck Year
1976
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C10
Engine Size
350
Hello,

New to the forum and new to working on a C10 (1976 Cheyenne). I have purchased upper/lower tubular control arms, modular drop spindles, new coils springs, etc., everything for the front end from CPP. Upon removing the upper control arms, I kept track of the shims from each stud. The number of shims range from 4 to 6 on each stud, plus a thick spacer that the stud passes through.

My question, do I need to put back all of the shims in the same place when installing the new upper control arms? If not, how do I know how many to shims to re-install? I know this may be basic for most of you, but I'm at the point where I'm stuck and I don't want to do proceed down a wrong path.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Rudy
 

Scott91370

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As mentioned, you do need to put them back in the same position as they came from. If you're lolwering it using springs, when you get it aligned you'll probably end up with a couple more shims than you have now to get the camber & caster back in spec.
 

bluex

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Personally, leave the thick spacer an take the rest of the shims out an have the shop start from scratch. The CPP arms have geometry improvements over stock. If you don't leave them out they will try to just set your toe an say the rest was "good enough"

Ask for these specs as well. At least +5.0* on the caster (should be easy as those arms have extra built in already) -.5* camber an toe can be factory setting of 1/16-1/8 in. With these settings it'll drive much better an sportier. The factory specs leave alot to be desired but sometimes its hard to find a shop to do the alignment the way you want an it'll definitely cost more. Be prepared to call around an ask if they will set it to your specs not the computers an that its going to meed shimmed. Pulling the inner fenders will make it easier for them an more likely that they will do it for you.
 

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