Header installation

[794spdcustom]

Hello all. I am planning to install some headers on my 1979 C10 which has a four speed. Are there any obstacles that I should be aware of? Thanks
Brad

 

[Doppleganger]

There's always the chance at fitment....interference, etc. with various brands and styles. Only issues I have ever had was them coming loose using bolts. Always had better luck with studs.

A copper nut on exhaust studs works great - just cant find them in an SAE thread.

 

[794spdcustom]

Thanks Doppleganger, good info. I guess I will just dive in and see where it takes me, and see what if anything needs to be modified. The headers are supposed to be for this style of truck I just didn't know if being a 4 speed makes a difference.

Brad

 

[85K304SPD]

Use the thick, multi layer gaskets or the composite ones. Be prepared to alter your spark plug wires and routing. Maybe just get new ones with 90 deg. boots. Make sure all the wires going to the starter are secured and far away from the headers. Post pictures and let us how it goes.

 

[WP29P4A]

Install also depends on long tube or short tube headers. Short tube headers are supposed to be easier to install. Most header installs force you to take out the starter, until you get the header part way in.
One thing to consider before starting is the new wraps they have to keep the heat inside the header tubes and keep you from cooking everything in the engine compartment. I redid the wrap on my clients jeep and the stuff works great. I liked the way it looked also.

 

[794spdcustom]

Use the thick, multi layer gaskets or the composite ones. Be prepared to alter your spark plug wires and routing. Maybe just get new ones with 90 deg. boots. Make sure all the wires going to the starter are secured and far away from the headers. Post pictures and let us how it goes.

Good call on the wires, hadn't really thought of that

 

[Catbox]

Thick gaskets are the ones for sure.

If you have interference issues with the starter, you can update to the smaller gear reduction starter from a newer GMT-400 series truck.
They fit and work like champs as we have one on our big block.

You may need to dimple the headers a tickle near the Z-bar linkage, we did just for the idea of having a minimum of clearance.

Make sure they don't hang to low under the chassis to get snagged on stuff.
We used a set of Nova headers and the whole collector is tucked up in the chassis.
You have to really look under there to see them all tucked away.
This may cause you to need to use an aftermarket transmission crossmember as the exhaust will want to go right through it.

 

[StickyLifter]

Not really answering your question, but I think I'm going to put a Ford style solenoid on my truck when I install headers over the winter. I saw a guy talk about it on a Nova YouTube channel I follow. His reasoning is you can avoid having a hot/live wire down by your headers that way. Plus it makes it easier to make a bump switch.

 

[SquareRoot]

Not really answering your question, but I think I'm going to put a Ford style solenoid on my truck when I install headers over the winter. I saw a guy talk about it on a Nova YouTube channel I follow. His reasoning is you can avoid having a hot/live wire down by your headers that way. Plus it makes it easier to make a bump switch

Agree. That's what I did.

On another note, now that I have discovered the new Hooker Exhaust manifolds I can't wait to remove my headers and toss em in the trash! Unless I'm building a race car, I'll never buy another set of headers.

 

[fast 99]

Agree. That's what I did.

On another note, now that I have discovered the new Hooker Exhaust manifolds I can't wait to remove my headers and toss em in the trash! Unless I'm building a race car, I'll never buy another set of headers.

Agree, have had headers that were impossible to keep from leaking, plug wire and plug change issues. Only have one set now but it is a heavy vehicle with a small motor, it needs them. When they rust out it will get a larger engine without headers.

When new headers are installed re-check the bolts at the heads after first heat cycle and every month or so until they stop getting loose. If kept tight, it will lessen the chance of a leak. I also used hi-temp silicone both sides. Let it tack up a bit before installation.

 

[794spdcustom]

Thick gaskets are the ones for sure.

If you have interference issues with the starter, you can update to the smaller gear reduction starter from a newer GMT-400 series truck.
They fit and work like champs as we have one on our big block.

You may need to dimple the headers a tickle near the Z-bar linkage, we did just for the idea of having a minimum of clearance.

Make sure they don't hang to low under the chassis to get snagged on stuff.
We used a set of Nova headers and the whole collector is tucked up in the chassis.
You have to really look under there to see them all tucked away.
This may cause you to need to use an aftermarket transmission crossmember as the exhaust will want to go right through it.

Exactly the kind of info I was looking for Catbox. I guess I will just drop the original single exhaust and start plugging away. I have the thick gaskets and ARP header bolts. These area used Facebook marketplace purchase but the part number relates to square bodies so here's hoping! Thanks for your input

Brad

 

[794spdcustom]

Agree, have had headers that were impossible to keep from leaking, plug wire and plug change issues. Only have one set now but it is a heavy vehicle with a small motor, it needs them. When they rust out it will get a larger engine without headers.

When new headers are installed re-check the bolts at the heads after first heat cycle and every month or so until they stop getting loose. If kept tight, it will lessen the chance of a leak. I also used hi-temp silicone both sides. Let it tack up a bit before installation.

Do these manifolds flow similar to headers?

 

[794spdcustom]

Agree, have had headers that were impossible to keep from leaking, plug wire and plug change issues. Only have one set now but it is a heavy vehicle with a small motor, it needs them. When they rust out it will get a larger engine without headers.

When new headers are installed re-check the bolts at the heads after first heat cycle and every month or so until they stop getting loose. If kept tight, it will lessen the chance of a leak. I also used hi-temp silicone both sides. Let it tack up a bit before installation.

Agree. That's what I did.

On another note, now that I have discovered the new Hooker Exhaust manifolds I can't wait to remove my headers and toss em in the trash! Unless I'm building a race car, I'll never buy another set of headers.

 

[794spdcustom]

Agree. That's what I did.

On another note, now that I have discovered the new Hooker Exhaust manifolds I can't wait to remove my headers and toss em in the trash! Unless I'm building a race car, I'll never buy another set of headers.

Do these manifolds flow similar to headers?