For anyone thinking of swapping to TBI.....

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Old77

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Solution: move out of Cali :deal:


:D
 

Jims86

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Solution: move out of Cali :deal:


:D

Agreed, but the wife has a very good job here right now. We have plans of moving to an area that only has smog checks for change of ownership, and not bi annual. Yes, it is true...places in Cali do exist, the dont dick punch you in the fart box just to register your vehicle.
 

Manbearpig

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**** that ****
 

dhamp

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Jim, are you running high-flow cats?
 

caliphatman8123

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Glad I found this thread...lol fixing to pull my tbi 350 out of my 88 burb and put it into an 84 blazer... lol want to keep the tbi just not sure about the wiring I need to keep with it... guess I'll be keep keeping the y-pipe and cat too... lol any advice on the wiring would be much appreciated thanks... btw Cali is full of tree huggers... lmao one more question since your in Cali too... will I need to take it to a referee to smog it or just go anywhere?
 

foamypirate

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Glad I found this thread...lol fixing to pull my tbi 350 out of my 88 burb and put it into an 84 blazer... lol want to keep the tbi just not sure about the wiring I need to keep with it... guess I'll be keep keeping the y-pipe and cat too... lol any advice on the wiring would be much appreciated thanks... btw Cali is full of tree huggers... lmao one more question since your in Cali too... will I need to take it to a referee to smog it or just go anywhere?

The wiring is super easy. You just need to find the ignition hot (comes on with ignition switch in start/run), , computer switched hot (comes on with ignition switch in start/run), and computer constant voltage wires. I set mine up in a small fuse block, and used a relay triggered by the old HEI 12v+ wire to turn everything on.

Everything else, you'll need the manual for to plot out what goes where for in the cab. You will also need a speedometer that has provisions for an optical VSS (though you can technically run without it). I think those diagrams are posted on here somewhere. I have the book, so I didn't use the forum really, but RetroC10Sport should be able to point you in the right direction.



Here is my fuse block:

The small 3 amp fuse ties into the starter solenoid and goes to the ECM. It uses the signal to know the engine is cranking and to disable diagnostics.

The 20 amp fuse is for the ignition system.

The 15 amp (I switched to a 10amp) is the switched 12V+ for the ECM.

The 10 amp fuse is the 12V+ constant for the ECM.

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caliphatman8123

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What kind of relay is that? and I'm having issues finding a fuse block like that at the parts house
 

kleedus

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i have a handful of tbi trucks headers dual 2.5'' pipe no cats flowmaster 40 series hard to flow better than that.

and i have never seen a egr code


and here in WYO a cat off a square is worth 50 bucks at the steel yard so i have no cats on any of my squares

WYOMING has no emmisions and no vehicle inspection of any kind
 

smurph20

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Try looking at Radio Shack for the fuse block parts stores usually dont have anything like that unless you have them get the Borg Warner book out and have them order one
 

caliphatman8123

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Sounds like a place I'd dearly love to be... lol
 

caliphatman8123

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I didn't think about going to the shack for that... ty
 

kleedus

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if i took almost any of my trucks to cali they would probabbly put me in prison.
 

caliphatman8123

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They'd have to catch you first...lol and a good running truck can be hard to catch... lol
 

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