Finally got a running 65 C10

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DoubleDingo

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When you spun the pushrods, did you use the side of your finger, or grab it between your fingers? Side of finger (clean and dry finger) guarantees you cannot spin the pushrod past zero lash. Between the fingers you can spin the pushrod past zero lash.

I would also suggest using the 2-roll method if you didn't do it that way, super easy.
 

1low4x4

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I gave a thumbs up,we need a fingers crossed emoji. So good luck,my fingers are crossed.
Thanks, I’m hopeful this will fix it. Just got home with the push rods and the valve cover I’m going to cut open.

If it doesn’t work out, I have the 350 that I built available from my 85K 10 that I sold my buddy. It’s a good reliable
When you spun the pushrods, did you use the side of your finger, or grab it between your fingers? Side of finger (clean and dry finger) guarantees you cannot spin the pushrod past zero lash. Between the fingers you can spin the pushrod past zero lash.

I would also suggest using the 2-roll method if you didn't do it that way, super easy.
I used the two fingers, and probably over did it
 

DoubleDingo

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........I used the two fingers, and probably over did it
Been there, done that. And I knew better, too. I thought, between the fingers will work just as well. Probably every pushrod was too tight. The vacuum gauge in the cab was bouncing all over, the engine ran like crap, and I quickly shut it off. Started it one more time, just to see if it would repeat, and it did. Popped the valve covers off, redid it with the side of the finger, and only a 1/2 turn, and it smoothed right out, and vacuum was at 15-17, something like that, it's been a few years, but vacuum was steady after redoing the adjustments.
 

bucket

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I have never done the 2-finger rolling lash adjustment. Personally, I just can’t get a good feel for it that way. I've always jostled the pushrod up and down until the clearance is gone. It's never failed me yet.
 

1low4x4

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All right, so I put the new push rods in, cranked the engine, and just loosened each rocker until it started the tick, and then I tightened it down until it stopped, probably less than a half a turn each one. I did this for every rocker, on both sides.

It seems to run way better, I have zero issues with any type of Rod knock like I thought initially. The only concern I have is the lack of oil pressure at the rockers. The truck says 50 pounds of oil pressure idling, but then later it will drop to 35. While it’s sitting at 50, I’m just getting an oozing of oil out of the push rods that kind of cascades down the springs. There is absolutely no streams of oil shooting out like I would think there would be. That’s on the passenger side. On the driver side it’s slightly more flow, enough to spill out onto the headers. The oil pump was new when I did the cam.

I should add that I had to take at least three or four full turns out of most of the rockers to get them to tick. They must’ve been way way way over tightened. Except for the ones that ruined the push rods, of course.

As far as driving the truck, it’s like a whole different truck. It’s actually a great pleasure to drive now. Lift off the clutch, press the gas, it’s almost effortless now whereas before you had to rev the engine super high while feathering the clutch to make it go. In between shifts is a dream. At highway speeds it’s nice and quiet. It really is fun to drive now. If I can figure out why it’s not getting more oil to the top that would be great, or maybe that’s just what it’s going to be for this old thing I don’t know. I still like the idea of getting the other 350 that I sold my buddy and building it on the side for this thing.

Did these YouTube links work for any of y’all?

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Ricko1966

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They don't get a lot of oil to the top,unless the are too loose.Oil pressure as long as you have 10psi per every 1000 rpm you're good. I'm not a believer in the more is better school of oil pressure. In spec is where I want to be. Also oil pressure drops as the oil and engine get hotter,viscosity thins and clearances change.
 

bucket

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They don't get a lot of oil to the top,unless the are too loose.Oil pressure as long as you have 10psi per every 1000 rpm you're good. I'm not a believer in the more is better school of oil pressure. In spec is where I want to be. Also oil pressure drops as the oil and engine get hotter,viscosity thins and clearances change.

Back when I was young and dumber, I put a high pressure pump in my Camaro. The oil pressure in that thing is absurd. I wonder what it has done to the drive gear on my camshaft.
 

DoubleDingo

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They don't get a lot of oil to the top,unless the are too loose.Oil pressure as long as you have 10psi per every 1000 rpm you're good. I'm not a believer in the more is better school of oil pressure. In spec is where I want to be. Also oil pressure drops as the oil and engine get hotter,viscosity thins and clearances change.
A schoolmate in high school bought a hopped-up 68 or 69 el camino. Ran strong. I was at work at the station one night and he pulled up to show it to me. Idling in the alley, I look in and see the oil pressure gauge was around 10 or 15. I asked about that and he said it was perfectly fine. I think it only got up the 35 psi at high revs. No clatter, no knocks, engine purred. It would have drove me crazy. My '56 pumped at 60 or more cold and a solid 40-50 when hot. Both of the engines were 350s his and mine
 

DoubleDingo

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A schoolmate in high school bought a hopped-up 68 or 69 el camino. Ran strong. I was at work at the station one night and he pulled up to show it to me. Idling in the alley, I look in and see the oil pressure gauge was around 10 or 15. I asked about that and he said it was perfectly fine. I think it only got up the 35 psi at high revs. No clatter, no knocks, engine purred. It would have drove me crazy. My '56 pumped at 60 or more cold and a solid 40-50 when hot. Both of the engines were 350s his and mine
The oil pump in my 350 was a high volume.
 

1low4x4

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Well, I feel better. It never gets below 35 lbs so I guess it’s just fine. I really wish I could show you guys just how much nicer this truck is to drive once I backed way off of those valves. It reminds me of my blue 85C 10 that I put the 305 into. Light and nimble.
 

1low4x4

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I could see remnants of red lettering from 1965 so I felt obliged to go buy a paint marker from hobby lobby and redo it
 

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1low4x4

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Pulled into the garage and my 7 year old son said “I like that smell”

I said that’s V8 exhaust with no cats and he said well I like it. Proud dad moment. Taking him to his second car show Sunday, might enter the truck
 

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1low4x4

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Well, we went to the car show, had a really good time. Didn’t place. Didn’t expect to. One thing I have always found odd about local car shows is the amount of late model cars winning awards. Out of 30 cars there, mostly all classics, the car that won best of show was a 2018 orange 50th anniversary hot wheels Camaro. lol. Just a car someone bought and drove to the show. And the car that won the best paint award was a 40,000 mile 2002 red Camaro. Also a nice car but man there were some slick square bodies there with beautiful paint jobs. I just find it odd that modern cars beat out the classics so often at these things. Matter of fact, that gorgeous square body didn’t even place in the top 10. And it was hands-down one of the nicest at the show.

Anyway today I left the lights on on my 65 at the gym for 40 minutes only to come outside and it was deader than dead. Wouldn’t even make a peep when turning key. Figured it wouldn’t drain it that badly that quickly especially seeing how crappy the lights are but idk.

Got it jumped off, but then all the way home the little digital voltage read out I have on the dash Read 9 V all the way home. I assumed the alternator wasn’t charging and that it would eventually go dead again, but it never did. That read out has always been close to 12 V. The battery and the alternator are the same ones that came on the truck so unknown history.
 

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