Electrical and Harness Repair Parts

CSFJ

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I've seen Eastwood offers Weatherpack connectors now too. Thought about picking up their larger repair pack set for myself.
 

jimbob_2015

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i would like them with the leads and matching wire colors, do you have a picture of yours
 

gmachinz

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I'll have to take a pic-I dont have a good clear existing pic of the square 4-cavity connector-I use them on tail light harnesses and LSx dual tank harnesses tho primarily.
 

hatzie

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Hope im in the right spot for this, i need to find a replacement for the connector that goes under the rear of the truck and connects the left and right rear lights together it is for an 86' k30 does anyone know a place or part number to find one. Thank you!

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Those are 2x2 4 position Weatherpak connectors that GM used for the taillamps from 83 or 84 on. I use these 2x2 disconnects for installing stake bed tail lamps on any truck, replacing damaged molded connectors on earlier trucks, and making up an easily replaceable/repairable harness for tail lamps on any trailer. They just plain work and they don't fill with water. Ford used em in several places under my 88 F250 with the Navistar 7.3 RIP.
Mouser sells the individual parts. Someone was selling kits with all the parts for a pair of shells on Amazon and Evilbay.
GM TAILIGHT PLUGS
Qty 1. 12015024 Delphi Connection Systems Automotive Connectors 4P MALE BLK 20 AMP WEATHER PACK SHROUD
Qty 1. 12015798 Delphi Connection Systems Automotive Connectors 4P FM BLK CON ASSY 20 AMPS
Qty 10. 15324982 Delphi Connection Systems Automotive Connectors INDV. LOOSE CBL SEAL GREEN
Qty 5. 12089040-L Delphi Connection Systems Automotive Connectors MALE TIN PLATED CBL RANG .80-.50MM2
Qty 5. 12089188-L Delphi Connection Systems Automotive Connectors FEMALE TIN PLATED CBL RANG .80-.50MM2

Qty ??. 12010300 Delphi Connection Systems Automotive Connectors CABLE CAVITY PLUG GREEN for use on stepside tail lamp disconnects.
 
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trukman1

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In 1987, GM went from C/K to R/V. It's confusing to many but the C/K became the GMT400.

The whole R/V thing confuses me. I thought that was a 88-91 Burb designation but I seems to be more than that.


Posted from mobile...

1973-86 squarebody 2WD = C
1988+ GMT400 2WD = C

1973-86 squarebody 4WD = K
1988+ GMT400 4WD = K

1987-91 squarebody 2WD = R
1987-91 squarebody 4WD = V

Just my 2 cents worth:

My 1988 GMC Light Duty Truck Wiring Manual lists the following:

C/K=Truck (2wd/4wd)
G-Van
S/T-S10/Sonoma
R/V-Jimmy, Blazer, Suburban
P-Chassis
M-Van (Motorhome?)
 

HotRodPC

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Just my 2 cents worth:

My 1988 GMC Light Duty Truck Wiring Manual lists the following:

C/K=Truck (2wd/4wd)
G-Van
S/T-S10/Sonoma
R/V-Jimmy, Blazer, Suburban
P-Chassis
M-Van (Motorhome?)

Both Retro and Your .02 Cents is correct. Your 88 manual covers both 1988 C/K which is the GMT400 New Body Style back then, the R/V Jimmy, Blazer, Subruban are Squarebodies. In 87 Squarebodies transitioned from C/K to R/V in anticipation of the Squarebodies carrying over while the new body style was released, so there is a 4 year overlap in USA. In South America Squarebodies carried through 1995 even in pick up trucks.
 

RetroC10Sport

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Just my 2 cents worth:

My 1988 GMC Light Duty Truck Wiring Manual lists the following:

C/K=Truck (2wd/4wd)
G-Van
S/T-S10/Sonoma
R/V-Jimmy, Blazer, Suburban
P-Chassis
M-Van (Motorhome?)

M van was the Astro/Safari.
 

mike kotarba

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How do I download the pdf file without a bunch of third party programs I do not want installed on my computer? It is just a pdf file after all.
 

82sbshortbed

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How many circuit wiring harness for an 82 c10 2wd with power locks and windows do I need? Seen 18,21,22 and 27. Just want to get the right one.

Since I'm not all that good with wiring an entire truck. What would be a fair price to pay a shop to do it for me?
 

Ken B

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I am looking at replacing wiring on 81 c10 what harnesses have been good or bad to use.?
 

KingBowzer

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Hoping someone might be able to give me a hand....it seems my marking and labeling for wiring harness on my 86 C10 has been washed away during my teardown and rebuild. Truck has been swapped from stock 305 to 350, 700R4(I believe I dont have RPO in front of me) is now a th350. From the fusebox (in the engine bay) how is the wiring harness routed? It runs under the brake booster across the firewall, where does it go from there?

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HotRodPC

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Hoping someone might be able to give me a hand....it seems my marking and labeling for wiring harness on my 86 C10 has been washed away during my teardown and rebuild. Truck has been swapped from stock 305 to 350, 700R4(I believe I dont have RPO in front of me) is now a th350. From the fusebox (in the engine bay) how is the wiring harness routed? It runs under the brake booster across the firewall, where does it go from there?

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From the firewall the wires should start branchingg off to where they go, like the green wires to temp sensor in the driver side head, oil pressure switch behind the distributor down the passenger side of the carb on the intake to the alternator, some over to the AC switch and blower motor and then down to the starter. This is all just a guess but fairly certain about it.

If I'm understanding the question right. :shrug:
 

KingBowzer

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Yes thats what I was asking. For some reason I was thinking that it had been run underneath the passenger side of the block. I've got an aftermarket oil and temp gauge so those are seperate entirely. I'd like to get rid of the extra wires and connections that someone over the years has gutted and swapped the parts they go to. Thank you very much

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HotRodPC

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Some of the wires do run like you're talking about but that's if you're running the ESC (Electronic Spark Control) that most of are not using these days. Reason for the wiring is the wire cable that goes to the knock sensor in the passenger side of the block about the center freeze plug area behind the exhaust manifold. That is a stand alone harness though that comes in from the firewall behind the distributor on the passenger side. Part of it goes to the distributor and then the wire cable to the knock sensor and it's coming from the ESC ECM behind the glove box. That's easily eliminated since it's stand alone. You can rip all that out and pull the glove box door and even remove the ECM.
 

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