Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

[iamtherealJayy]

The link to amazon shows it doesn’t fit a 1978 k10, I’ll have to check if local has it and look around a little bit.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I’m ordering a dorman replacement manifold 674-202 I believe is the number. Looks like my manifold sadly it’s $80 it hurts to spend it lol but surely the truck will sound better after. I also refilled the truck today(13 gallons I believe) to click the nozzle. Trucks only been about 60 miles so I’m hoping to uhm get better fuel mileage. I didn’t completely fill it until it clicked the first time but the gauge showed full and it used atlwast 10 gallons of fuel. 6 mpg is kinda horrible. I swapped advance to ported and lowered the idle to around 600. It did diesel a little at the gas station but it was idling around 900 at that time. I sprayed brake clean around where the oil was puddling in the intake with no change in rpm. I’m not positive where my intermittent vacuum leak is from.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Got to work this morning and the truck dieseled the longest yet so far I wasn’t sure if it was going to stop, I’ve lowered the idle and changed advance to ported. What could be causing the dieseling? I haven’t been able to run anything through the carb yet.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Got to work this morning and the truck dieseled the longest yet so far I wasn’t sure if it was going to stop, I’ve lowered the idle and changed advance to ported. What could be causing the dieseling? I haven’t been able to run anything through the carb yet.

Go back to manifold vacuum on the distributor. When you do that it should cause the idle to increase. You can then lower the idle speed with the screw and the throttle blade will be closed more. That will help. Next do one of the decarb methods we have talked about.

Revisit the idle mixture screws, if you haven't already, if they are a little rich there is extra fuel in there to ignite, if it's a little lean a cylinder might be a little hot at idle. You could just try going an 1/8th of a turn richer with both mixture screws, if that doesn't help try a 1/4 leaner.

You can shoot the exhaust manifold near each cylinder with an IR thermometer to see if one cylinder is running hot, which might indicate an intake gasket leak.

You can try going down a couple steps in the heat range on the spark plugs. If your running R45TS, try going to R43TS or CR43TS, and see if that helps. Stepping down the plugs should lower combustion chamber temps a bit.

 

[SirRobyn0]

I's really recommend try to solve the issue though one of the methods we have discussed, but if none of that works, Edelbrock offers an idle solenoid, so the throttle blades will shut more when you shut the truck off and then it really can't diesel, but they are like $150, and it's just masking the problem. My bet is if you go back to manifold vacuum on the distributor and run a decarb it'll stop doing that.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

It dieseled before I switched, I just switched yesterday I think? I can’t remember hardly anything. I switched because someone said my issue with a hiccup when quickly accelerating was my vacuum advance being on manifold instead of ported. I honestly don’t care what it’s on the truck runs fine on either I just have to tweak the mixture screws. The truck idles at 18-20 vacuum majority of the time. Sometimes it stumbles and idles at 14/15 that’s when my intermittent vacuum leak is around. I’ll run some carbon stuff through tomorrow and check the temps with my infrared thermometer. I just took the manifold off and threaded the stud part and put rtv all over the joint snugged it and gotta wait about 40 more minutes to tighten it down. I would’ve went and got a gasket but the lip on the exhaust pipe is cracked about half way around and fell off. So I just smothered it with rtv for now to atleast lessen the leak until I can get a different piece welded in.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Also while I was under the truck, there’s oil dripping from the starter, front driveshaft, rear of the oil pan, and a little here and there. The flywheel is oily but not wet with oil? If that makes sense?

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I know a little bit about vehicles, but I don’t know enough to tell whether or not it’s lean/rich other than fouling plugs running terrible etc, if it’s a little rich or lean I cannot distinguish the ideal mixture other than from a vacuum reading. Can anyone chip into somethings a common person can do to spot differences if lean/rich? I do have an ir thermometer so I’m going to check that tomorrow, but any driving differences? I know lean burns hotter

 

[iamtherealJayy]

@AuroraGirl for peace of mind, I have a new throttle cable on the way

 

[SirRobyn0]

It dieseled before I switched, I just switched yesterday I think? I can’t remember hardly anything. I switched because someone said my issue with a hiccup when quickly accelerating was my vacuum advance being on manifold instead of ported. I honestly don’t care what it’s on the truck runs fine on either I just have to tweak the mixture screws. The truck idles at 18-20 vacuum majority of the time. Sometimes it stumbles and idles at 14/15 that’s when my intermittent vacuum leak is around. I’ll run some carbon stuff through tomorrow and check the temps with my infrared thermometer. I just took the manifold off and threaded the stud part and put rtv all over the joint snugged it and gotta wait about 40 more minutes to tighten it down. I would’ve went and got a gasket but the lip on the exhaust pipe is cracked about half way around and fell off. So I just smothered it with rtv for now to atleast lessen the leak until I can get a different piece welded in.

Ok, you made it sound like your worst dieseling was after you switched to ported, but basically manifold is more resistant to dieseling, but that doesn't mean is can't still happen.

So if you want to save that manifold I'd cut the stud off, and drill and tap the manifold to take a bolt.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Also while I was under the truck, there’s oil dripping from the starter, front driveshaft, rear of the oil pan, and a little here and there. The flywheel is oily but not wet with oil? If that makes sense?

Makes sense, as you run it you'll learn what oil consumption is like. And then we can take it from there. Personally I'd save the oil leaks for after the rest of the stuff is worked out unless your leaving a puddle on the ground.

 

[SirRobyn0]

I know a little bit about vehicles, but I don’t know enough to tell whether or not it’s lean/rich other than fouling plugs running terrible etc, if it’s a little rich or lean I cannot distinguish the ideal mixture other than from a vacuum reading. Can anyone chip into somethings a common person can do to spot differences if lean/rich? I do have an ir thermometer so I’m going to check that tomorrow, but any driving differences? I know lean burns hotter

Well for a well seasoned carb'ed guy you can hear it as you turn the mixture screws. If your setting the mixture with a vacuum gauge that's just fine and will still get you to the same spot. So from highest vacuum just turn each screw 1/8th of a turn out and see if that helps. If not try 1/8th to a 1/4 turn in. But see what the decarb does for ya too. That'll probably be the most help.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

I did not cut the stud off and redrill due to the design of there’s not enough meat to make an “ear” on the other side, I threaded it and did put a washer and nut on tho. I’ll find out later if everything ended up sealing. The oil leak doesn’t leave a puddle but the worst spot I noticed was probably 4” diameter overnight. It’s not dumping oil but it’s got a steady drip from somewhere, it’s not low yet I haven’t had to add a quart in the ~80 miles so far. I got two cans of b12 to run through the truck later I did switch back to manifold, the mixture screws are around 1-1/4 out I believe, when I first did the carb forever ago it was 1-1/2 out and I’ve only turned it in some. I plan on eventually getting an AFR gauge of some sort to check the mixture as driving to really get the truck running optimal. I took a photo of my odometer reading the other day when I filled the truck up so I can track my fuel mileage.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

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Poured a whole bottle of Berrymans down the carb, the exhaust fix seems to be working for now, it’s not 100% gone but it’s 97% gone. It’s actually no longer unbearable to be inside. Is the sound at idle because of a miss or just the exhaust being normal? During the clip you can hear the idle tone. The exhaust is factory manifolds 2” pipe 18” thrush mufflers. It could be a leak from where the mufflers are making the noise since I had it welded by a not so professional person it does have holes in the weld.

 

[iamtherealJayy]

Watching the video back it’s not obvious the truck didn’t diesel, but when I shut it off it did not diesel. That’s the whole point of videoing was to show the progress and you can’t even tell in the video lol.