Dumb question

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texasmike

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I believe I know the answer to this question but since I am not 100% sure, I'm going to ask it anyway. I have a 700r4 transmission and burn only no ethanol fuel and while in (d) and at low speed, the engine lugs a little when trying to speed up. The rest of the time, everything works great.
Should I advance the timing very slightly by turning the distributor clockwise or do something else? Thanks folks.
 

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Wouldnt hurt to try it
 

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Don't ya gotta turn it counterclockwise to advance timing....that is, pull the vacuum advance can to the front of the engine???
So, looking at the distributer from the top, thinking like a pinball machine and the vacuum advance is the ball shooter. Ball goes in and circles around the top, that is the direction the rotor is turning. So, you turn the dizzy toward the vacuum advance to advance timing.

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I believe I know the answer to this question but since I am not 100% sure, I'm going to ask it anyway. I have a 700r4 transmission and burn only no ethanol fuel and while in (d) and at low speed, the engine lugs a little when trying to speed up. The rest of the time, everything works great.
Should I advance the timing very slightly by turning the distributor clockwise or do something else? Thanks folks.
I run mine in 3 around town, and shift to D for open highway only.
 

DoubleDingo

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But yes, advancing timing a little won't hurt.
And yes, advancing is turned counterclockwise.
 

texasmike

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Thanks everybody for the reply's, I'm glad I asked the question and understand the logic. I also drive in 3 around town DoubleDingo but my shift pattern is 1,2,D and D with a square around it for overdrive I guess.
 

75gmck25

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Most stock SBC's will run fine on regular with timing advanced to about 12 degrees BTDC.
 

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So, looking at the distributer from the top, thinking like a pinball machine and the vacuum advance is the ball shooter. Ball goes in and circles around the top, that is the direction the rotor is turning. So, you turn the dizzy toward the vacuum advance to advance timing.

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Jeez Wayne, simple terms don't make it so effing HARD!!!!!!......lol
 

Turbo4whl

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Jeez Wayne, simple terms don't make it so effing HARD!!!!!!......lol
Perry, that's as simple as I got! How about inline 6-cylinder firing order: 153624 Fifteen too young, Thirty-six too old, Twenty-four, just right!
 

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by lugs you mean stays at too low of rpms ie upshifts at low rpms?
Does it “lug” if you shift it manually and at higher rpm or if you accelerate hard?
 
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texasmike

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by lugs you mean stays at too low of rpms ie upshifts at low rpms?
Does it “lug” if you shift it manually and at higher rpm or if you accelerate hard?
If traffic slows down to say 33mph in D, while trying to accelerate it pings for a second or two while picking up speed.
 

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If traffic slows down to say 33mph in D, while trying to accelerate it pings for a second or two while picking up speed.
You’re kinda making this into 20 questions.
Pinging like pre detonation? Totally different condition than lugging.
And if it’s pinging due to timing it’s already too far advanced.
Other causes for pinging or dieseling are too low of octane. Not your issue.
Carbon deposits/buildup causing pre-detonation. Quite likely IMO on an old smogger engine that doesn’t get worked.
And if it’s an original smogger 305 all in tact, it is quite possibly something in the ESC and the rest of the crap the 305s got adorned with from the factory.

You also didn’t answer the last questions I asked.
 

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More timing is not going to help. If you don't have your ESC and torque converter vacuum switch hooked up,I'd bet 1 or both is your problem
 

texasmike

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You’re kinda making this into 20 questions.
Pinging like pre detonation? Totally different condition than lugging.
And if it’s pinging due to timing it’s already too far advanced.
Other causes for pinging or dieseling are too low of octane. Not your issue.
Carbon deposits/buildup causing pre-detonation. Quite likely IMO on an old smogger engine that doesn’t get worked.
And if it’s an original smogger 305 all in tact, it is quite possibly something in the ESC and the rest of the crap the 305s got adorned with from the factory.

You also didn’t answer the last questions I asked.
The answer to the last question is no. If I push the accelerator a little harder, it will shift into 2 and then back to D very quickly. Most of the emission parts have been removed along with the knock sensor distributor. If I remember correctly, timing without vacuum advance is 14º @ 700rpm w/o AC on. I'm running manifold vacuum to the distributor which adds about 24º when connected. Engine is an LE9 "H" and is bone stock with 68k miles.
 

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