Broke second throttle cable in 6 months.

[cramezl]

Shortly after I bought my K25, the throttle cable frayed and snapped in the middle. No biggie, it looked old. Replaced it in August. Got in it today after work and hit the gas once to get her going and it broke again. This time it just pulled out of the crimped end at the carb. JUNK! Put another one on. Do you think the pedal return spring (not sure what it's actually called) is too stiff? It's looks like a double coiled spring. 2 hooks on each end but i can't get it apart.

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[smurph20]

That's what I have on mine too. Sounds like maybe just bad luck on the first one.

 

[bucket]

Was the replacement aftermarket? Is the gas pedal excessively stiff to push?

 

[bucket]

Oh, and dual springs are just for safety, in case one breaks, there's still something to pull the throttle closed. They can still be light springs that aren't too tough though. Also, incorrect spring placement can cause a stiff pedal.

 

[chengny]

Just be sure you are not trying to run a straight shot from the firewall to the cable anchor bracket and then to the throttle. It needs to be in a spiral shape ( like a pigs tail or a cork screw) to enable it to shift over the foot or so from the firewall to the bracket.

If it is forced to go in a straight line it will bind and fail quickly.

 

[cramezl]

Ahh makes sense about the springs. The pedal is pretty firm, but I wouldn't call it excessive. The spring is pretty funky looking. I would think an old spring would create less tension?

Thanks for the pics. I do have it spiraled from the firewall to the bracket

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[towin'gmc]

Just how long do you keep that thing on the floor?
You might check the carb linkage throw and bracket distance for binding at the bracket.

 

[friscobob]

My pedal was as stiff as standing on a rock, replaced the spring and it's nice and easy now.
Bob

 

[cramezl]

I think I'll do that

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[cramezl]

A little update: I replaced the spring, with no change in stiffness. But, I continue to break cables about every 500 miles. It doesn't snap the cable, but the cable pulls out of the crimped piece that connects to the carb linkage. I keep putting $15 O'Reilly specials on it. I think I'm going to try to find an OEM replacement, or something of some quality, which brings me to this:

Not much of a description, but the price makes it seem like it should be higher quality. The same site sells cables for my application for $20 as well.. Anybody have any insight? http://www.classicparts.com/1983-89-Accelerator-Cable-Assembly/productinfo/89-746/

 

[Skweegle89]

what does your carb bracket look like? does the bracket set lower or higher than the carb linkage? my bracket was lower than the carb when i replaced carbs and mine broke within a week. bought a new adjustable bracket and haven't had anymore problems.

 

[Skweegle89]

And it may be that your springs are too stiff. just make sure that if you replace them, the new ones are strong enough to close the throttle all the way.

 

[cramezl]

what does your carb bracket look like? does the bracket set lower or higher than the carb linkage? my bracket was lower than the carb when i replaced carbs and mine broke within a week. bought a new adjustable bracket and haven't had anymore problems.

I'll snap a pic and post it. I tried separating the two springs, just as a test, and that wasn't strong enough.

 

[MadOgre]

Shortly after I bought my K25, the throttle cable frayed and snapped in the middle. No biggie, it looked old. Replaced it in August. Got in it today after work and hit the gas once to get her going and it broke again. This time it just pulled out of the crimped end at the carb. JUNK! Put another one on. Do you think the pedal return spring (not sure what it's actually called) is too stiff? It's looks like a double coiled spring. 2 hooks on each end but i can't get it apart.

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Disconnect the throttle cable and the return spring from the carburetor linkage. Now by hand open and close the throttle on the carb several times. Is it stiff? It should be very VERY easy to turn the throttle by hand. If not you have a binding throttle shaft. Also if you do this when the engine is warm you can check to ensure the secondary shaft is turning freely and not binding. If the choke is engaged on a cold engine the secondary shaft is prevented mechanically from opening. So do it while it is warm unless you know where the little stop is on the passenger side that stops the secondaries from opening. Then just hold the stop open and do it while the engine is cold

 

[MrMarty51]

One other thing to check.
Is this an automatic transmission ? if so, the kick down cable could be binding and causing the throttle cable to break.