Burbdually73
Member
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2022
- Posts
- 30
- Reaction score
- 13
- Location
- fresno
- First Name
- daniel
- Truck Year
- 1973
- Truck Model
- Suburban
- Engine Size
- 454
Recently picked up an 81 swb 2wd c10 Silverado I been trying to buy for almost a decade. Drove it home after a lumber stop at Home Depot about 25 miles through town and 70 on the freeway. Brake light was on but never seemed like there was any issues or felt unsafe. Get it home and notice the front res(rear brakes) on the MC was dry so I filled er up and pumped the hell out of the brakes…light went away.
Didn’t drive it and parked it for a few weeks while I got the interior cleaned, repaired and presentable.
Drove it, rear brakes lock up at any speed and any amount of pedal pressure, feels like right side. Pulled the drums and had a leaky wheel cylinder on the right side. Replaced both, adjusted drums and bled. Didn’t bleed well, intermittent pressure for quite a while. Drove it…still locking up rear.
Decided to bench bleed the MC since I have a kit. A ton of air in the MC but still having issues bleeding out back. Drove it…still locking up.
Thinking I may have ruined seals in the MC or they were already dried out from being without fluid…I installed a new MC, bench bled and went to bleeding, this time I have a centering tool for the PV. Still not bleeding properly. Original MC was the alum/plastic combo, got the same one.
Pulled off the proportioning valve and torr it apart, rear side with the large fitting is full of rust. On to a new PV2 proportioning valve and blew out the rear rubber and 2 hard lines with air. Everything bled good.
Drove it…STILL locking up. No brake light on.
Sorry for the long winded post…but I need some help. What can I look for? Neighbor car builder says to check for a pinched hard line or collapsed rubber line at axle.
Could there be an issue up front and sending all fluid to rear now? Assuming I only had front brakes the first day I drove it home and they worked well enough to not worry.
Didn’t drive it and parked it for a few weeks while I got the interior cleaned, repaired and presentable.
Drove it, rear brakes lock up at any speed and any amount of pedal pressure, feels like right side. Pulled the drums and had a leaky wheel cylinder on the right side. Replaced both, adjusted drums and bled. Didn’t bleed well, intermittent pressure for quite a while. Drove it…still locking up rear.
Decided to bench bleed the MC since I have a kit. A ton of air in the MC but still having issues bleeding out back. Drove it…still locking up.
Thinking I may have ruined seals in the MC or they were already dried out from being without fluid…I installed a new MC, bench bled and went to bleeding, this time I have a centering tool for the PV. Still not bleeding properly. Original MC was the alum/plastic combo, got the same one.
Pulled off the proportioning valve and torr it apart, rear side with the large fitting is full of rust. On to a new PV2 proportioning valve and blew out the rear rubber and 2 hard lines with air. Everything bled good.
Drove it…STILL locking up. No brake light on.
Sorry for the long winded post…but I need some help. What can I look for? Neighbor car builder says to check for a pinched hard line or collapsed rubber line at axle.
Could there be an issue up front and sending all fluid to rear now? Assuming I only had front brakes the first day I drove it home and they worked well enough to not worry.