Block Heater install, Removing Plug?
- Thread starter DrvnDrvr
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
SirRobyn0
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2019
- Posts
- 6,744
- Reaction score
- 11,332
- Location
- In the woods in Western Washington
- First Name
- Rob
- Truck Year
- 1984
- Truck Model
- C20
- Engine Size
- 305
Generally the most common ways is to either use a hammer and a punch in one spot on the edge in order to get the plug to kind of swivel in hole and then when one end is out grab it and pull it out with whatever you can. The other one is to drill a hole in center of the plug stick a fat screw driver in and pry until it comes out.
Unless the engine is on a stand it's generally messy and a pain in asss. There are units that install in the heater hose, they are both a heater and have some bit of slow pumping action to get the heat into the engine. I have no personal experience with those units I've just seen them installed before.
Unless the engine is on a stand it's generally messy and a pain in asss. There are units that install in the heater hose, they are both a heater and have some bit of slow pumping action to get the heat into the engine. I have no personal experience with those units I've just seen them installed before.
DrvnDrvr
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2022
- Posts
- 150
- Reaction score
- 441
- Location
- Bend Or
- First Name
- Al
- Truck Year
- 78
- Truck Model
- K20
- Engine Size
- 350
Thanks for the reply, yeah it looks like a PIA. Can't get a straight run at it. Guess I'll just have to muscle it out. It's getting cold here in central Oregon and the truck takes up alot of space in the garage with the snowplow on. Pics to come. Learned alot from you on Ratsun.net.Thanks
Attachments
PrairieDrifter
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2014
- Posts
- 3,478
- Reaction score
- 4,605
- Location
- North Dakota
- First Name
- Mason
- Truck Year
- 84,79,77,70,48
- Truck Model
- Suburban k10, bonanza k10, c30 C&C, c10, gmc 1/2ton
- Engine Size
- 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
Best thing is as said above but for sure a vice grip on it once you get it pivoted. Then tap the handle on the vice grip and it should pull right out.
Just try and rotate the plug in the hole, it will be much harder to get out if you drop it in the block, you will be fishing with a magnet. Some people leaves the plugs in the block, but that's such a hack job. In your case you'll need it out to fit the heating element in the block.
Just try and rotate the plug in the hole, it will be much harder to get out if you drop it in the block, you will be fishing with a magnet. Some people leaves the plugs in the block, but that's such a hack job. In your case you'll need it out to fit the heating element in the block.
fast 99
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2021
- Posts
- 1,639
- Reaction score
- 2,221
- Location
- Spokane, Washington
- First Name
- Brian
- Truck Year
- 81,85
- Truck Model
- K20
- Engine Size
- 350
Have removed leaking plugs or installed heaters many times. Channel lock, use one side as a pry bar. Best heater is installed in block.
Be sure to follow directions, install in the correct plug and get the orientation right. There are heaters that go in the lower radiator or heater hose. Those work decent.
Really, Bend OR doesn't get cold enough to require a block heater for starting but a warm engine does provide interior heat sooner.
Be sure to follow directions, install in the correct plug and get the orientation right. There are heaters that go in the lower radiator or heater hose. Those work decent.
Really, Bend OR doesn't get cold enough to require a block heater for starting but a warm engine does provide interior heat sooner.
WP29P4A
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2021
- Posts
- 866
- Reaction score
- 1,469
- Location
- Nevada
- First Name
- Mike
- Truck Year
- 1987
- Truck Model
- Sierra Classic V1500
- Engine Size
- 350 TBI
I did the heater that goes in the lower radiator hose on my son's truck and my sploder, they work fine here in No. Nevada. Don't really NEED them but it is nice to have heat within minutes of starting up.
DrvnDrvr
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2022
- Posts
- 150
- Reaction score
- 441
- Location
- Bend Or
- First Name
- Al
- Truck Year
- 78
- Truck Model
- K20
- Engine Size
- 350
After reading the block heaters instructions it says to install it in the drivers side rear freezeplug hole.
I just don't see how I can get that plug out without risking knocking it into the engine block and really screwing myself.
Also it just doesn't get cold enough here long enough to try. Seems like to much a risky PITA for the benefit. It came in the box of spare parts that came with the truck, maybe that's why. PO should have installed it when he put in the new motor.
I looked into the ones that go into the heater and radiator hoses and that looks like an easier way to go if I ever do.
You must be registered for see images attach
I just don't see how I can get that plug out without risking knocking it into the engine block and really screwing myself.
Also it just doesn't get cold enough here long enough to try. Seems like to much a risky PITA for the benefit. It came in the box of spare parts that came with the truck, maybe that's why. PO should have installed it when he put in the new motor.
I looked into the ones that go into the heater and radiator hoses and that looks like an easier way to go if I ever do.
You must be registered for see images attach
Memaloose
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2018
- Posts
- 507
- Reaction score
- 1,435
- Location
- Dolan Springs, AZ
- First Name
- Tony
- Truck Year
- 1975
- Truck Model
- K20
- Engine Size
- 350
If you haven't already installed the new block heater, don't. Buy a Kat's tank heater, more wattage, faster heating, better circulation. Follow instructions and you'll be very happy with it. Either put it on a timer or plug it in an hour before starting, 2 hours if it's below -20.
I was a heavy equipment/fleet mehanic many years in AK so I have lots of experience keeping engines warm.
Pain in the ass is not even close to removing a frost plug and installing a block heter while the engine is in the rig. Straight sixes are another story but not a V8.
I was a heavy equipment/fleet mehanic many years in AK so I have lots of experience keeping engines warm.
Pain in the ass is not even close to removing a frost plug and installing a block heter while the engine is in the rig. Straight sixes are another story but not a V8.
Bextreme04
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 13, 2019
- Posts
- 4,211
- Reaction score
- 5,121
- Location
- Oregon
- First Name
- Eric
- Truck Year
- 1980
- Truck Model
- K25
- Engine Size
- 350-4bbl
It just doesn't get cold enough around here to need one. You are just going to instigate another possible leak and point of failure. I would suggest like others have said to get one that can go inline with the heater hose to warm up the entire engine. Another good choice is a stick-on one that goes on the oil pan. That really what you need to be warming up for a cold start to keep from starving a cold engine from oil during cranking.
DrvnDrvr
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2022
- Posts
- 150
- Reaction score
- 441
- Location
- Bend Or
- First Name
- Al
- Truck Year
- 78
- Truck Model
- K20
- Engine Size
- 350
Thanks for all the replies. After researching my options I came to the decision of using an inline heater versus trying to get out a freeze plug would be best. If the plug went into the engine block I'd be screwed. I have room enough in the garage to get the truck in overnight if it gets into minus temps which is very rarely.
Besides after the plowing out the last snow other issues have cropped up. Np203 transfer case lever needs adjustment for 4 low and how did I bend the steering damper.
Besides after the plowing out the last snow other issues have cropped up. Np203 transfer case lever needs adjustment for 4 low and how did I bend the steering damper.
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2019
- Posts
- 2,900
- Reaction score
- 6,539
- Location
- Downingtown, PA
- First Name
- Wayne
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- Jimmy
- Engine Size
- 350
If damper is old and the oil has all leaked out, it will bind up, and bend itself.
Zerostart makes several models of tank type block heaters. I prefer those, over a lower hose heater.
SirRobyn0
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2019
- Posts
- 6,744
- Reaction score
- 11,332
- Location
- In the woods in Western Washington
- First Name
- Rob
- Truck Year
- 1984
- Truck Model
- C20
- Engine Size
- 305
I am not on ratsun.net, but thank you anyway.
Of course what did I have come into work today. A 1981 G20 305 with rotted out freeze plugs. Brown coolant rust everywhere. Replaced all the plugs I could get to, flushed it as gentile as I could be with just the garden hose and told him to schedule it for trans R&R to get the ones in the bellhousing done. At this time he just wanted to get it back on the road for the holidays. Freeze plugs not fun. Full reminder of that today....
DrvnDrvr
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2022
- Posts
- 150
- Reaction score
- 441
- Location
- Bend Or
- First Name
- Al
- Truck Year
- 78
- Truck Model
- K20
- Engine Size
- 350
No worries on the ratsun thing. Somewhere I saw sir robin as a major contributor. Just wanted to acknowledge.
I'm backshelving the block heater thing for now.
Knocking out a factory sealed freeze plug just sounds like the wrong thing to do.
After plowing snow I've got to figure out what's next.
The NP 203 transfer case linkage needs adjusting and gonna replace the newly bent steering damper.
Freeze plug are better left alone. It's a pretty new engine and doesn't leak right now.
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Right?
Gonna get granny a new bum heating pad for Xmas. I'll use her old one as an oil pan heater for long as it lasts.
I'm backshelving the block heater thing for now.
Knocking out a factory sealed freeze plug just sounds like the wrong thing to do.
After plowing snow I've got to figure out what's next.
The NP 203 transfer case linkage needs adjusting and gonna replace the newly bent steering damper.
Freeze plug are better left alone. It's a pretty new engine and doesn't leak right now.
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Right?
Gonna get granny a new bum heating pad for Xmas. I'll use her old one as an oil pan heater for long as it lasts.
Last edited:
SirRobyn0
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2019
- Posts
- 6,744
- Reaction score
- 11,332
- Location
- In the woods in Western Washington
- First Name
- Rob
- Truck Year
- 1984
- Truck Model
- C20
- Engine Size
- 305
How cold does it get there? And do you actually have issues getting it to fire, or was the heater for some other reason? I ask BC my truck fires off in the teens no problem even when I've let it sit a few days.
I personally would never promote knocking out a freeze plug unless totally necessary. I think that style of block heater is only on the market BC it's been around for so long people are familiar with it, but the slow pumping type heaters that plumb into the heater hose is better coolant heater. I like the heating pad on the oil pan idea, but still fall back to if you're having issues starting it, you'd be better off looking at the carb or state of tune.
AuroraGirl
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2019
- Posts
- 9,237
- Reaction score
- 6,225
- Location
- Northern Wisconsin
- First Name
- Taylor
- Truck Year
- 1978, 1980
- Truck Model
- K10, K25
- Engine Size
- 400(?), 350
I originally started working on my square with a lower hose heater. It didnt work( i found out)But the damn thing being in the lower hose introduces points of failure(Possibilities) Because you now have 4 clamps , 2 hoses, and that hose is the one that takes the abuse from the water pump.
I popped a hose 3 or 4 times, 1 about 20 minutes walk back to house, before I said enough and got a new hose and just did away with the nonsense. helped flush the system, I suppose.
