Any tricks to getting your SB doors to close easier?

[Edelbrock]

is your door appear aligned with the cab depth wise? if so you can move the striker out if you dont mind the sticking out a bit until it wears a bit
Or you can adjust the flange the weatherstrip is on with a mallet to sit in a bit

The striker as all the way out. I tried about 10 different positions, and center out works the best. I thought about modifying it so that it could sit further out, but I decided against it. I like the idea of using a mallet to move the seal in further, I will try that for sure. I think that's the fix that I was looking for. thanks!

 

[Scott91370]

Door bushings are OK. Plastic is gone, but the strikers are greased. Does the plastic help?

It's the only thing that will help.
I adjusted and adjusted and adjusted for hours. Put a piece of pex on and never slammed the door again.

 

[Edelbrock]

It's the only thing that will help.
I adjusted and adjusted and adjusted for hours. Put a piece of pex on and never slammed the door again.

Same here.

 

[Captain Ron]

For what it's worth I cut a slit down the middle of the Pex to make it simple to install. Just pry it open a little and slip it over. I also put a tiny amount of silicone grease over it. Like Buttah... They'll wear out in a few years - but I have a lifetime supply in my glove compartment for a couple of dollars.

 

[backwoodsman]

Would rubber hose work? Probably needs to be plastic, no?

I did a couple of mine with PEX. Works great, but you have to remove the striker to get the PEX on, then make sure it's adjusted correctly when you reinstall.

So I did a couple more with chunks cut from an old 1/2" garden hose. Works just as well. It probably won't last as long, but so far it's lasted a couple years and looks like it'll last at least a few more. And no need to remove the striker, just cut a slit to slip it on; I cut it diagonally so it holds on better as the latch hits it.

Edit: It never occurred to me to cut the PEX and slip it on without removing the striker. With that info, I'd use PEX if I had it, but I'd still use the garden hose if it's what I had lying around, rather than having to buy PEX.

 

[83Stepper]

1/2" pex or poly tubing works really well as long as the door bushings aren't blown out. Cut a slit down the middle of the tubing to slide it over the striker. Might have to take a little out of it to make it easier to install, but trust the process, it'll work as long as the rest are in good shape.

 

[Edelbrock]

I hated the way my doors closed.

As others have said, hours of adjustments with no luck - verses a few minutes posting the issue here and then a few minutes following the advice given - problem solved.

Now I cant believe how well the doors close.

This website should be on the front of vehicle owners manuals.

 

[bucket]

I noticed there was still posting going on in this thread, so I popped on in, out of curiosity.

The "PEX" thread is actually a 'sticky' thread in the paint and body part of the forum. No real searching needed, it's always at the top of the list.

Fix Slamming Doors - Striker Door Latch Repair

So how many squarebody slamming doors can you repair for under $3. Anyone want to guess??? I was told about this trick long ago. Finally got frustrated enough today, and I happen to be out and about and dropped in at Lowe's for a piece of plumbing. This is a 5 foot stick of 1/2 PEX sold...

www.gmsquarebody.com

 

[Steelbuddha]

You never know what'll happen when you sit down to look over the weekly gmsquarebody digest while avoiding work. I always assumed the doors on my '84 K20 just suffered from "old truck," and thought maybe it was some kind of air pressure issue. Just for grins, I cut a couple little pieces of 1/2" PEX from the large store on hand, popped them on the strikers, and holy cow! The doors close like a new Cadillac. Thanks a lot, guys, for a zero-expense, low-effort upgrade. Wish everything was this easy.