Any tricks to getting your SB doors to close easier?

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Chevy 88

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is your door appear aligned with the cab depth wise? if so you can move the striker out if you dont mind the sticking out a bit until it wears a bit
Or you can adjust the flange the weatherstrip is on with a mallet to sit in a bit


The striker as all the way out. I tried about 10 different positions, and center out works the best. I thought about modifying it so that it could sit further out, but I decided against it. I like the idea of using a mallet to move the seal in further, I will try that for sure. I think that's the fix that I was looking for. thanks!
 

Scott91370

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Door bushings are OK. Plastic is gone, but the strikers are greased. Does the plastic help?

It's the only thing that will help.
I adjusted and adjusted and adjusted for hours. Put a piece of pex on and never slammed the door again.
 

Captain Ron

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For what it's worth I cut a slit down the middle of the Pex to make it simple to install. Just pry it open a little and slip it over. I also put a tiny amount of silicone grease over it. Like Buttah... They'll wear out in a few years - but I have a lifetime supply in my glove compartment for a couple of dollars.
 

backwoodsman

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Would rubber hose work? Probably needs to be plastic, no?

I did a couple of mine with PEX. Works great, but you have to remove the striker to get the PEX on, then make sure it's adjusted correctly when you reinstall.

So I did a couple more with chunks cut from an old 1/2" garden hose. Works just as well. It probably won't last as long, but so far it's lasted a couple years and looks like it'll last at least a few more. And no need to remove the striker, just cut a slit to slip it on; I cut it diagonally so it holds on better as the latch hits it.

Edit: It never occurred to me to cut the PEX and slip it on without removing the striker. With that info, I'd use PEX if I had it, but I'd still use the garden hose if it's what I had lying around, rather than having to buy PEX.
 
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83Stepper

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1/2" pex or poly tubing works really well as long as the door bushings aren't blown out. Cut a slit down the middle of the tubing to slide it over the striker. Might have to take a little out of it to make it easier to install, but trust the process, it'll work as long as the rest are in good shape.
 

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I hated the way my doors closed.

As others have said, hours of adjustments with no luck - verses a few minutes posting the issue here and then a few minutes following the advice given - problem solved.

Now I cant believe how well the doors close.

This website should be on the front of vehicle owners manuals.
 

bucket

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I noticed there was still posting going on in this thread, so I popped on in, out of curiosity.

The "PEX" thread is actually a 'sticky' thread in the paint and body part of the forum. No real searching needed, it's always at the top of the list.

 

Steelbuddha

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You never know what'll happen when you sit down to look over the weekly gmsquarebody digest while avoiding work. I always assumed the doors on my '84 K20 just suffered from "old truck," and thought maybe it was some kind of air pressure issue. Just for grins, I cut a couple little pieces of 1/2" PEX from the large store on hand, popped them on the strikers, and holy cow! The doors close like a new Cadillac. Thanks a lot, guys, for a zero-expense, low-effort upgrade. Wish everything was this easy.
 

edgephoto

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What color PEX works best? :anitoof:
 

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pex- works on my Burban. my 2 cents (which is about what the pex will cost)
 

AuroraGirl

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I hated the way my doors closed.

As others have said, hours of adjustments with no luck - verses a few minutes posting the issue here and then a few minutes following the advice given - problem solved.

Now I cant believe how well the doors close.

This website should be on the front of vehicle owners manuals.
was it the weather strip flange/new weather strip then? as long as your door lines up at the moment, keep an eye on it a couple months from now, if its slightly in ward, then move the striker out just enough to line up the door to the cab. if its then leaking, you need to readjust
But if not youre set
 

Turbo4whl

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Drivers side wont get any better than it is because of my new door seals. The door seals dont "squish" easily and are not molded to the door shape, like the OEM ones on the passenger side. Striker wont move out far enough to solve this. ideas?
Here is the product for door seals, it't called Door Ease

You must be registered for see images attach


It is like a wax, you coat the rubber. Apply it like lip balm.
 

Chevy 88

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Here is the product for door seals, it't called Door Ease

You must be registered for see images attach


It is like a wax, you coat the rubber. Apply it like lip balm.



Cool. I will try some.
 
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