87 r10 engine and trans problems

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Torqueshop1

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Okay this is gonna be a long one with lots of details. I've been cruisin forums and trying different things and I'm now out of ideas so I finnally caved and am asking for some help. Here goes.

so I picked up this 1987 chevy r10. Test drove it ran pretty good shifted kinda late but was told it may have a shift kit. Idk How true that is. I drove it 60 miles home no problems. Got home let it sit 20 mins went back out wouldn't start. Turned over fine but no fire. Eventually the battery started getting low so I jumped it and it started up. Over the course of the next week I had been daily driving it and figured out that the truck started great when cold but if u let it sit for 20 mins or so and try to start it it would be very hard to start turns over for a while starts for a second then dies but eventually it would start. So I replaced coolant temp sensor that didn't work, replaced the manifold temp sensor that didn't work, replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Nothing checked the timing with the advance wire unplugged it was set about 6-8 degrees advanced so I set it back to 0. Disconnected battery for about 30 seconds. Still no change. I'm at the bottom of my checklist and not sure what to check next. I was thinking fuel but when I go to start it warm I cycled the key 4 or 5 times to prime the pump no change, hold the pedal to the floor no change.
When the truck is running it runs awesome it'll sit and idle great run 80 mph down the interstate no problem. What should I check next

Now the transmission (700r4). Like I said above it shifts late and hard. When I first got it it didn't do it all the time sometimes it would shift great other times I wouldn't shift to 2nd til about 20 mph. Then I lowered the truck and it didn't start shifting til about 30 mph. So obviously I checked the fluid level and it was overfilled. I pulled probably 1/2 a quart out of it until it registered on the high side of the ok level on the dip stick. After I did this it shifted great I immediately put about 100 miles on it and it shifted perfect the whole time. Until I got home I pulled into town and took off from a stop sign and sure enough it started shifting late and hard again. So I double checked fluid it was still good on the dipstick, color was good, and smell was good. Now it shifts like this all the time. I figured tv cable i went to adjust it obviously it needs more slack to make it shift sooner. upon inspecting my cable it's either non adjustable or it has all the slack already taken out of it either way i can't give the cable any more slack. The trans doesn't slip at all its pulling the whole time the rpms are going up and theres no lack of power.

I'm hoping these problems are connected. Its probably some stupid simple sensor somewhere. Anyone out there have any ideas?
 

Torqueshop1

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New Fuel pump relay didnt fix the starting issue. Pump runs when relay is bypassed. Lucas trans fix made it shift sooner and smoother
 

yevgenievich

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Likely sticking tv plunger in the transmission. jr kit has the parts to fix that part if it comes back. Verify that on hot start can do the relay bypass for a minute first and then try starting. Possible fuel pump getting tired or can't keep up due to clogged filter or pick up sock
 

Torqueshop1

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One thing I noticed is that I can only hear the fuel pump cycle before hot start one time then it starts for a couple seconds and dies then I can't hear the fuel pump cycle again wether I turn the key on or off itll only cycle again if i let it sit for about 5 mins then it'll do it all over again
 

74 Shortbed

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That's because it has reached full pressure, let it sit some and pressure bleeds down so the pump will pump up to pressure again, that's normal..
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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If it were me, I'd run through all the basics again. Make sure fuel pressure's right and replace the fuel filter while you're down there checking the pressure. Autozone will let you borrow the tester. I'd also verify that you're getting injector pulse and spark when going for a hot start. The ignition control module controls both, and they can start to act up when they're hot. You should see the injectors spraying in an conical fashion while you have a buddy trying to start it. If you don't see anything spraying, get a noid light (you might be able to borrow that one, too, but they're cheap) and hook it up to the injector plugs and see if it lights up. To check for spark, you can get you a spark tester, which will test for presence or you can remove a plug while leaving it plugged in and ground it to metal and test for presence and quality. You should be getting a snappy, whitish-bluish spark. In summation, I'd start with making sure that fuel isn't being restricted by an old filter, a dirty tank, or a bad pump, which was previously mentioned, and if that doesn't get you anywhere, I'd investigate the ICM stuff. Has it given you any Service Engine Soon lights? Is it running noticeably rich? Those are two huge diagnostic clues with a TBI vehicle.
 

87ChevyR10

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Does this truck have long tube headers on it? If so, the slow/no crank when engine is warm could be the starter getting heat soaked. I have first hand experience with this and it sucks! Get a heat shield and a new starter.
 

Torqueshop1

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No engine lights
Spark is good
No leaks around tb.


Another thing I noticed is that when it does finally start I can let it idle for min shut it back off and it'll still be hard to re start right away
 

Torqueshop1

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It doesn't have long tubes but it doesn't crank slow either it turns over just fine
 

Torqueshop1

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Didn't have time to mess with it today but I went to drive it this morning and it wouldn't start I tried bypassing the relay again to prime the pump but it didn't sound like the pump was running. I eventually got it to start but it usually starts right up when it's cold
 

yevgenievich

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Verify if pump is running or not when it fails to start. Should also check fuel pressure by installing an adapter and a gauge
 

87scotty

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Dual tank?
 

Torqueshop1

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Dual tank. Passenger side tank isn't used because of a rust hole
 

4WDKC

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Check the ICM if it and the pick up coil look original, do yourself a favor and get a complete new dist. They are know for bushings wearing out and allowing the pick up coil to contact the shaft which will leave you broke down and scratching your head. i recomend this all at once as it is 20-40 for and ICM and 20+ for a pick up coil, + rotor, +cap and a complete new dist with all these is 75-120.
 

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