357 build questions

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iamtherealJayy

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So today I finally found an affordable small block for sale near me. Drove almost an hour to pick it up. I got a “350 std bore short block” and a “350 bored .40 over” neither engine has heads. The standard bore is going to be a stock rebuild for my work truck k10. The 357 I’m planning on making a little more power. I’m not looking to build a race truck by any means but I’d like to be able to spin tires if I want and have a little power when I want it. The engine in the truck is currently a tbi 350. I don’t figure I’ll be able to reuse much out of it. So I’m wondering what the best affordable heads would be, I’ve already got an edelbrock intake that came with. The guy was building this 357 but came into an injury and had to sell it so I got everything but heads and a cam. I’m looking for opinions on what kind of heads and can I would need.
 

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You can't beat Edelbrock upper end packages. They're engineered to work together, have specific power levels and a warranty. Bolt it on and go.
 

iamtherealJayy

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I think all I need to get a complete engine is cam(and lifters), heads, carb, and distributor. I’d love to do this on a budget as much as possible. The more it costs the longer it’s going to take. I’d like to stay under 1k if possible at all I’m fine with running stock heads if feasible. I have some factory heads I need to check numbers on and research and find what would work best. I can always upgrade heads later on. I just don’t want to get something that actually hurts performance. I have more than one set of 305ho 416 heads but they boost compression and I don’t know enough about engine building yet to know where I want to be in compression
 

75gmck25

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I understand why you want to do a budget build, but starting out with rebuilt stock heads really limits the potential. If you want to save a little, look for a set of vortec heads and have them checked for cracks before you install. The 64cc chambers should give you compression in the low 9’s, which will be fine on regular gas.

In general, the Vortec iron heads are good for 30-40 hp by themselves, and matched to an RV cam grind (about 214-218 @.050 max duration) they will provide great low end power. It’s very easy to be into the 325hp range, and will be more like 350 hp if you use full length headers and a low restriction exhaust.
 

iamtherealJayy

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That’s a good description of what I’m after, I do want to run on pump gas and I’m not looking for 500 horsepower or anything. I am just looking for something that will have a little power when I need it ;) I’m fine with running cheaper options for now and upgrading later on down the road I just don’t want to put something in that actually negatively effects power. Is there anything I need to know when choosing heads and a cam? I have the numbers off the edelbrock intake so I’ll try to figure out what intake it is. I’m mainly looking to get information about what I should avoid
 

Joshua Keith

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I’ve been wanting to do a budget rebuild on my 350 as well. I’d probably do the vortec 062bswap, intake of course, new springs, cam and lifters. I’m in memphis, not sure if you’re close. You ever need help with anything. Hit me up
 

iamtherealJayy

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Are the “LT1” heads the vortec heads? If so there’s a set for sale near me I’ll buy
 

iamtherealJayy

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I just caught you’re in Memphis, I’m a little northeast of you on the other side of Jackson.
 

SquareRoot

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I think all I need to get a complete engine is cam(and lifters), heads, carb, and distributor. I’d love to do this on a budget as much as possible. The more it costs the longer it’s going to take. I’d like to stay under 1k if possible at all I’m fine with running stock heads if feasible. I have some factory heads I need to check numbers on and research and find what would work best. I can always upgrade heads later on. I just don’t want to get something that actually hurts performance. I have more than one set of 305ho 416 heads but they boost compression and I don’t know enough about engine building yet to know where I want to be in compression
Buy once, cry once. Cut corners and you'll be doing it twice. And that doesn't account for the time wasted doing it over. Been there, done that, more than once.
 

SquareRoot

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Are the “LT1” heads the vortec heads? If so there’s a set for sale near me I’ll buy
You make my point. Invest in an engineered "package". Nothing wrong with learning but if you're claiming to be on a budget, learning the hard way and spending money wisely are not compatible.
 

iamtherealJayy

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I’m willing to spend a little bit I just cannot afford to spend 1000-1500 for heads at the current time. I have the money to afford it I just can’t afford to spend that much at once, if that makes even slightly any sense. I’m thinking comp for the cam and lifters I don’t want a huge cam I’d like to stay within stock springs or kit springs I haven’t quite figured the numbers yet for everything. I’m trying to figure it all out but some of it is going above my head
 

iamtherealJayy

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Alright got all my parts. Is there anything I need to know about putting the heads on, cam in, lifters in, pushrods, rocker arms? I had an engine machine shop build me some heads and match a cam/lifter set for me. Told my application how the truck would be used and they took care of me. I’ve been reading about first time problems and dealing head bolts? What do I “seal” the bolts with? I know the rtv on China walls instead of gasket and things like that but this is still my first build so any pointers will be appreciated even if I already knew it. I have to install- oil pump, all gaskets, cam, timing chain, heads, lifters, pushrods, rockers(I’m using stock? I have 1.6 roller rockers but I don’t know whether it’s worth using or not), intake and up. I’m starting with a block, crank, and pistons.
 

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