What have you done to your square lately??

bucket said:

I've used the Permatex stuff many times over the years with good results. You absolutely MUST follow the directions to a T. I've seen guys use it and it doesn't work at all, but they have not been detail oriented guys. You must be clean, tidy and follow directions. Also do not mount the mirror to the tab for at least 24 hours, imho.

My old glass guy used some stuff that was incredible. He would apply it, then stick the mirror on a minute later and it was on there for good.

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I used the permatex kit on my OBS Crew Cab shortbed, and it stayed up for a few weeks. Then I came out from work and the mirror was dangling by the harness(compass/temperature mirror). So I got everything super clean, but I haven't had a cooler day when I had time to restick the mounting puck(been pulling several early or managing shifts and so I have NO extra time in the morning and I'm beat when I get home).

Swapped the driver's door pin and bushings.

The trick of hanging the door off ratcheting straps thrown over open ceiling trusses was game changing. My trusses ran the wrong way, so I had to throw a spare 2x 90-degrees to the others to get it where I could swing the door in to start the bolts.

The straps sure beat balancing the door on jack stands or the floor jack, which I did when taking it off.

SIDE NOTES:

(1) The easiest way, all the way around, to swap those pins is, remove the hinge on the door side, from the door.

(2) My pins didn't have flairs at the bottom, so the pins pounded out easily. Otherwise, I'd have had to cut them, then pound the top of the pin up, and the bottom down.

(3) As indicated on a video I watched, the PERFECT way to press the bushings in was, Knipex's Cresent replacement. As the guy pointed out in the video, they have parallel jaws, unlike their Channel Lock versions, so put pressure evenly all the way around the bushing and they press in easily.

Too, they don't have teeth to mar anything.

The YouTube video:
(4) I, also, used the guy's tip about pressing a regular screwdriver between the two hinge sides (at the top) when pounding the pin down, so you don't risk shattering the top of the bushings.

DoubleDingo said:

I see a new 3d print in his future

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Snort. I have a box of usable bench seat, seat belt holder versions/variations I need to find a home for.

I'd already flipped the belt on one, and added round-overs.

BLUETOOTH CONTROLS



Here's the bluetooth steering wheel controls I added to my 80's S15 Jimmy steering wheel on my 83 C10. This is the best mod i've done in a long time. Pause/Play music on your phone, change tracks, change volume, answer the phone, activate Siri. It's called a Media Button, I used a 1 3/8 forstner bit then slowly took it to 37mm with my Dremel. Since it works on the phone instead of the stereo it will still work even after stereo upgrades.

I just stuck a $100 bluetooth speaker under the dash with magnets ziptied to the handle. This low buck rig works better and sounds better than it has any right to.

The media buttons are about $20 +/- on amazon, depending on version. This version of button only does audio fundtions. The

Sad Sack said:

And...

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I love that burnt orange ‘70.

Got the rear disc kit installed finally

Got the plow mount pulled off and the CUCV bumper and guard back on, need to fix an exhaust leak and get the bed pulled to make way for the service bed that will take its place.

Swapped out the passenger fender was a pain it fought me more than the driver side, and it didn't help it was almost 90 degrees. Now just need to get the wheel well trim on and the hood cut and repainted.

TotalyHucked said:

Got the rear disc kit installed finally

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Did you have to change out wheel studs for longer ones? I’m trying this right now but the wheel studs look short and barely come thru wheel?

cdg295 said:

Did you have to change out wheel studs for longer ones? I’m trying this right now but the wheel studs look short and barely come thru wheel?

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Are you changing wheels at the same time? The disc kit shouldn't change that, it's the wheel that determines if you need longer studs. My discs are roughly the same thickness the drums were, so my existing studs and lug nuts will work just fine.

TotalyHucked said:

Got the rear disc kit installed finally

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We took a vote and decided that's too purty to put tires on, so your plans of driving this when done have been vetoed . . . .

Yesterday evening I went to a friends place out in the sticks with no cell service so I didn't take my phone so no pics. This morning at 0800 being a crisp 68 degrees after our overnight rain and thunderstorms, I decided to change out the original power booster valve and replace with the NOS Delco valve I got a over a week ago. When I pulled the valve out, the 41 year old grommet turned to half rubber dust and half grommet. Pretty sure the grommet was not holding the vacuum like it should. When I completed the replacement and fired it up to test, the brake pedal operation was a significant percentage better than before. Glad I did that.

Additionally, the mirror to glass replacement procedure held up valiantly on the severely bumpy/washboardy 20 mile round trip 4 wheel road. We will see what the future holds on that...

Chevrolado said:

Alright, alright, you guys have convinced me..
But now the question is: Am I just a regular glue kind of guy? Or am I Professional level?
Or... do I crack open a Monster and go Extreme with it?

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Permatex works great. Follow the instructions precisely, clean/prep the glass and metal surfaces, and you will enjoy the results.

Made an excuse to drive the '73.........didn't take much, hit the arts store for ma, then the licquor store for me. Cranked up some live Mountain and chilled.

Painted the inside and firewall of the 79.

Did get a couple spots of dirt in the glove box door.