U-Joint Study - Greaseable vs Non Greaseable

[HotRodPC]

I know the greasable one is from Oriely and was brand new when it broke. i'm not sure if i still have the none greasable one but if i do it is a stock unit that came with my truck.

If it was the cheap O'Reillys then its a MasterPro. If it was the expensive one its a Precision. But there is only about $4-$6 difference in the good one and the cheap one.

 

[78shortandwide]

This is A Master Pro U-Joint from O'reilly Auto Parts. part # 371. It is a non Greasable chrome-nickel alloy. $8.99 Each.
It broke on the first trip out. Wont be buying these again.

 

[HotRodPC]

Awesome cutout views and good info. Not good at all. Although it appears to be of some decent quality, obviously made of some inferior metal. Made in China maybe???

Sadly, I just bought one of those MasterPros at O'reilly's cuz they were out of the Precision. Its the one in the rear driveshaft to the rear end yoke. They did have the Precision for the front shaft to the front axle yoke and I got that one. So I can expect the MasterPro to take a in short order. I think I'll just change it out sooner than later when I get cash, and also change the one on the rear driveshaft to the slip yoke into the Tcase and I'll use both Precision from RockAuto.

 

[78shortandwide]

This one was in the drivers side front axle shaft. It broke when i jumped up a hill in reverse. When i put the lift on i had both the drive lines rebuilt and a drive line shop. They got spicers in them and i have had no issues with them yet.

 

[HotRodPC]

This one was in the drivers side front axle shaft. It broke when i jumped up a hill in reverse. When i put the lift on i had both the drive lines rebuilt and a drive line shop. They got spicers in them and i have had no issues with them yet.

Hopefully you won't have issues with the Spicers. They are supposed to be the best, and Precision is apparently right behind them as far as quality.

 

[85K10]

Spicer U Joints

Hey guys does anyone know what part number is needed for the spicer u joints (Front Axles)? I have found couple places online to buy but not sure what I need (part number). Thanks for the help.

 

[HotRodPC]

Hey guys does anyone know what part number is needed for the spicer u joints? I have found couple places online to buy but not sure what I need (part number). Thanks for the help.

Which ones do you need? You should have 3 U-Joints in the front driveshaft, 2 in the rear driveshaft, and 2 at your axle hubs. Then it can also matter at which end of the driveshaft too, whether it be at the axle end or the Yoke end of the driveshaft. Then you should also have a Ball seal kit in your front CV of the front shaft at the T-Case that is often overlooked. And of course then there is the choice of Greasable or Non-Greasable U-Joints.

 

[85K10]

Spicer

Looking for the ones at the front axle. The ones at the hub i'm thinking. And from reading on here I guess will go with the non greasable. Guess they are stronger.

 

[HotRodPC]

We can start here with Precision Part # 371 is the Rock Auto for the Non Greaseable U-joints at the wheels @ $14.66 each. Now be looking for a Spicer crossover #.

 

[HotRodPC]

Searching for a Spicer Cross Reference, I found this link. Very informative. I'll have to read this someday too.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/summer2008/ujoints.htm

 

[HotRodPC]

Not Positive Yet, but I'm thinking its going to be the 5-760X.

http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/category/cat_ujoints_1310WheelJoints.html

 

[crazy4offroad]

5-760X SPICER
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p76...nance_free_4x4_front_axle_universal_join.html

 

[HotRodPC]

5-760X SPICER
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p76...nance_free_4x4_front_axle_universal_join.html

I was thinking that was the one.

Seems to be the very common one for all square years. I wouldn't mind buying 3, 2 to replace mine and a spare to keep on hand incase of a break.

 

[crazy4offroad]

I was thinking that was the one.

Seems to be the very common one for all square years. I wouldn't mind buying 3, 2 to replace mine and a spare to keep on hand incase of a break.

Usually what happens is the internal snapring shoots off, the cap backs out a little (or comes all the way off) and the stub breaks/junks the axleshaft. If you're on the trail it would be beneficial to carry 1 stub shaft, 1 short inner and 1 long inner shaft, and maybe 2 u-joints. Did you notice the axle joint for the Corporate 10 bolt is the same as the Dana 44? So in my opinion "upgrading" from the Corp 10 bolt to the D44 aint much of an upgrade.

 

[HotRodPC]

Usually what happens is the internal snapring shoots off, the cap backs out a little (or comes all the way off) and the stub breaks/junks the axleshaft. If you're on the trail it would be beneficial to carry 1 stub shaft, 1 short inner and 1 long inner shaft, and maybe 2 u-joints. Did you notice the axle joint for the Corporate 10 bolt is the same as the Dana 44? So in my opinion "upgrading" from the Corp 10 bolt to the D44 aint much of an upgrade.

I was aware, the D44 and 10bolt and pretty much lateral units. One is stronger in 1 area, and the other is stronger in another, otherwise pretty much the same and many parts interchange as far as hubs, drums etc. And everyone is giving away 10bolts for cheap, so If I see them for cheap, I'll scoop up a spare or 2 anticipating the break. It wasn't long ago, I seen on CL for $50. No hubs or rotors, but complete otherwise. I'd have gotten more serious about it if it were a 3.73, but it was a 3.42 and I want to keep my 3.73's in mine. Shoulda got it anyway for axle shafts alone.