Ball joint

[Grit dog]

You don't want to heat ball joints especially not aftermarket ones,they can have bronze bushings,no problem,or nylon bushings,there's the problem.

Good warning. Should have qualified if you know they don’t have non metallic bushings.

 

[Grit dog]

I bought one and it solved the problem on two of my fittings but it would not work on this ball joint'
Thanks to everyone for your comments and suggestions. I'm going to try one more thing. I need to find someplace with a lift and get the wheel about waist high and while someone is applying pressure to the fitting, have another person shake the hell out of the wheel while turning it. If that doesn't work, I'll start with the penetrating oil.

To be clear you’re turning the steering, not the wheel, correct?
Not sure why that would require a lift.
But again, you haven’t mentioned the condition of it currently. Assuming it’s not crunchy and not sloppy or you’d not be worried about lubing it.
Seems like alot of different efforts here that if really concerned, a simple ball jt replacement would cure and help you sleep better at night.

 

[Blazerbiker]

If you absolutely can't get grease in there, I'd look at trying to get some heavy gear oil under the boot. It's not thick like grease but some lube is better than no lube and could help you kick the can on an otherwise un necessary job for a while. Then when it's actually loose, you can put in new joints.

I think gear oil under the boot would have a better chance of working it's way into the moving part of the joint compared to any grease.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Seems I remember a tool that was used with a small hammer to "shock " the ball joint into accepting grease. Like a grease gun, hooked onto the zerk and tapped the opposite end with the hammer, kinda "jarred" the joint and success??

do NOT use that here
you have a very limited amount of space and the fact its not taking grease is more likely corrosion or debris is stuck
just remove the grease zerk, then pump it while its in the gun off the joint
if it dont work,m use a pick tool and some heat or replace zerk. they sell kits full of them for not much

 

[texasmike]

To be clear you’re turning the steering, not the wheel, correct?
Not sure why that would require a lift.
But again, you haven’t mentioned the condition of it currently. Assuming it’s not crunchy and not sloppy or you’d not be worried about lubing it.
Seems like alot of different efforts here that if really concerned, a simple ball jt replacement would cure and help you sleep better at night.

Well yes, I'm turning the wheel from left to right. The waist high lift idea is to get the wheel high enough so someone with some real strength can easily grab the tire while standing up and jiggle it back and forth, in and out, up and down, all while turning it left and right as a second person is applying grease pressure to the fitting. All I know for sure is: (1) I have been driving this truck for 4-1/2 years and have put 12,200 miles on it (2) it currently has 64,600 miles and a NEW zerk fitting (3) the other nine fittings take grease just fine (4) the boot around the subject ball joint feels completely empty (5) there are no audible noises or sounds coming from the suspension system while I drive it, and (6) this is a very nice truck and it does bother the s*it out of me to drive it knowing that I have one (1) dry ball joint. I'm just trying the quick and easy way to solve the problem before I carry it to a shop which will charge me probably $500+ to replace it with some cheap ass part. Labor rates down here are $178.50 per hour! If I have to go that route, I will check the reference library for the best brand part and furnish it to them. And NO, I am not capable, nor do I have the tools, to do the job myself.

 

[Broken85]

If the zerk fitting is new;
Pull it out and see what is at the bottom of it. It should be soft grease. If it is anything hard, 1) try and clean it out with a pick and see if it will take grease. If still no joy 2) replace the joint.

If there is any chance of the joint being salvageable, there will be a point in the travel or suspension extension that it will accept grease. If no matter which way you move it, no grease will go in, the joint is smoked. Either plugged solid, or the grease valley is mangled. Either way it is a ticking time bomb.

If this is a tie rod end, you are risking a catastrophic failure. When it finally goes, there will be no warning. The ball will fall out of the fitting and both tires will steer in different directions. It depends how fast you are going if the damage to the front end will be repairable. If you are lucky you will be able to jack it up, put the joint back together with bale wire and get it home. If you are not lucky, well….. even if a joint is tight when you shake it, I wouldn’t trust it if I haven’t been able to get grease in it for 4 years.

 

[texasmike]

Earlier in my posts, I reported that I removed the right b-j fitting and before inserting it on the left side, I took a pick and stirred it around in the hole and there was nothing but fresh grease in there. That fitting didn't help so I replaced it with a new one. Believe me, I am not going to ignore this problem and risk doing any damage to this fine ride. BTW, this is not a tie rod, it's a left wheel bottom ball joint. Thanks

 

[Ricko1966]

Earlier in my posts, I reported that I removed the right b-j fitting and before inserting it on the left side, I took a pick and stirred it around in the hole and there was nothing but fresh grease in there. That fitting didn't help so I replaced it with a new one. Believe me, I am not going to ignore this problem and risk doing any damage to this fine ride. BTW, this is not a tie rod, it's a left wheel bottom ball joint. Thanks

I read all that to begin with. I'd buy a grease gun needle and fill the boot,remove the zerk and fill the bottom. Any motion if it is completely full would have to have grease migrate through the whole joint

 

[idahovette]

do NOT use that here
you have a very limited amount of space and the fact its not taking grease is more likely corrosion or debris is stuck
just remove the grease zerk, then pump it while its in the gun off the joint
if it dont work,m use a pick tool and some heat or replace zerk. they sell kits full of them for not much

C'mon Taylor ,read the thread....... he changed the zerk side to side, had fresh grease in the ball joint. If it's corrosion or debris, that is exactly what this tool is for. if it works, fine if it doesn't then by all means change the joint.......I'd probably change it anyway.....hasn't been taking grease....it's compromised

 

[Grit dog]

C'mon Taylor ,read the thread....... he changed the zerk side to side, had fresh grease in the ball joint. If it's corrosion or debris, that is exactly what this tool is for. if it works, fine if it doesn't then by all means change the joint.......I'd probably change it anyway.....hasn't been taking grease....it's compromised

Yeah I’d try that gizmo here. Perfect application.