U-Joint Study - Greaseable vs Non Greaseable

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89Suburban

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I think that is a great idea for a new comparison test for U-Joints that I myself have not seen before, maybe a first on GMSB, or on the web for that matter??? :waytogo:

:popcorn:
 

HotRodPC

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Its been said NON Greaseable U-Joints are stronger because they do not have a void with channels to allow grease to flow, where Greaseable U-Joints will have a void throughout to allow grease to travel throughout all cups and bearings from the single grease zerk.

Is it actually true that NON Greaseable really don't have a void in them and they are 100% solid making them stronger than Greaseable.???

Obviously there are Pros and Cons to both type. This will be our official thread for U-Joint discussions, opinions and a place to explain our U-Joint Experiences. Not just discussion of Greasable or NON Greasable, but brands too.

Also, anyone who is changing your U-Joints, we'd like to you to cut open your bad U-Joint just as people have done with Oil Filters to confirm or deny good performance.

Cut it open, take pictures of it and post them up in this thread. Also document as much information you have that you KNOW to be correct. Like how many miles are on them, what brand they are, if they are Greaseable or NON Greaseable, what year, make and model of vehicle they came off of and their position on the vehicle, whether it be rear shaft at the rear end, or rear driveshaft at the transmission bolt on yoke etc. Just include as much information as you KNOW for a fact about the U-Joint.
 

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Okay what i know
The better u-joints made in America use better steel,im a knife guy i know steel,pick up a cheap AZ then go to NAPA or CarQuest and tell them you want their best.You notice the difference.

Having changed dozens maybe a cple hundred in my career with automotive you have two things going on..if you get the drive train in water a great deal,mud,etc.Grease-able are better as long as you stick with top shelf pieces.
The none grease-able rust around the stub the needle bearings and caps go on and the grease-able don't,well as long as you grease them.It keeps them cleaner/drier also less grit.

truly all BS Aside having broken a few u-joints both in drag racing (not on the street) to beating the hell out of a jeep or 2 on trails the quality of the u joint is what really makes the difference---if you have two top shelf u joints and one non grease-able there MIGHT be a very small difference,maybe.
 

HotRodPC

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Okay what i know
The better u-joints made in America use better steel,im a knife guy i know steel,pick up a cheap AZ then go to NAPA or CarQuest and tell them you want their best.You notice the difference.

Having changed dozens maybe a cple hundred in my career with automotive you have two things going on..if you get the drive train in water a great deal,mud,etc.Grease-able are better as long as you stick with top shelf pieces.
The none grease-able rust around the stub the needle bearings and caps go on and the grease-able don't,well as long as you grease them.It keeps them cleaner/drier also less grit.

truly all BS Aside having broken a few u-joints both in drag racing (not on the street) to beating the hell out of a jeep or 2 on trails the quality of the u joint is what really makes the difference---if you have two top shelf u joints and one non grease-able there MIGHT be a very small difference,maybe.

I tend to lean your way on that Bob. I'm doubtful there is a big difference in strength in either one and I'd prefer the greaseables myself too. I've always head the Spicer U-Joints are the best, and close behind is Precision. I was not so certian about Precision myself at first, but when I realized that is the Napa house brand, and its made in USA, that tells me its good. I don't Napa to not carry anything that's of quality. Seems the Precisions are a buck and half to 2 bucks cheaper than Napa at O'Rys. Not sure if RockAuto carries them or not.
 

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I just checked RockAuto. They do Rock !!! They carry Precison and AC Delco brand U-Joints. They even carry the Precision and AC Delco brand Universal Ball Seal Kit for the CV front axle: :waytogo: and their prices even appear to be a few bucks less than O'rys so they must obliterate Napa's price then.
 
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crazy4offroad

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It's been my experience that u-joints fail on my truck this way:
1. Miss one grease job and the needle bearings turn to dust.
2. The cap material is brittle cast steel, breaking and crumbling pretty easily from shock-load.
3. The pin the cap rode on now acts as a lever on the other cap, and very soon the yoke ears WILL break.

Under my workbench I had a large assortment of ragged out u-joints and only a couple actual broken ones. However recently I junked all of them :( Precision joints never broke at the pin, always as described above. It's the Advance Auto Chinese-made mother truckers that actually broke a pin. From now on I'm sticking with whatever Driveline Services uses, Neapco or Spicer.
 

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This will be a great thread. :waytogo:
 

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I know I have a broken greasable u joint at home I might have a none greasable one as well i will get them both cut and post some pics.
 

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Well, I do believe the idea for the thread for started in C4's build thread with the U-joint issues and ensuing discussions then topped off with...



so just a mention of the thread and the idea behind from C4's experiences would be sufficient :shrug: Not as if it's a big deal at all but still worth mentioning IMO....

Alrighty then. Fixed it. I think. Check it out and make sure everyone approves, then I can clean up all the non necessary posts since it is a tech thread and a sticky at that. :High 5:
 

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I know I have a broken greasable u joint at home I might have a none greasable one as well i will get them both cut and post some pics.

What are you going to use to cut them? We have a bad ass cut saw at work. Anybody have a milling machine? That would be really nice to open up a couple layers at a time and pics of a few layers. Maybe even different cuts or grinds too, like, straight cuts and angle cuts, possibilities are endless. :waytogo:

Also a chop saw would work, but it would be a little messy.
 

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I know I have a broken greasable u joint at home I might have a none greasable one as well i will get them both cut and post some pics.

That would be great Tom. Do you by any chance happen to know the brand name of them??? If not, maybe there are some markings on it that say Made in USA or Made in China. Any of that type info would be great for comparisons.
 

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What are you going to use to cut them? We have a bad ass cut saw at work. Anybody have a milling machine? That would be really nice to open up a couple layers at a time and pics of a few layers. Maybe even different cuts or grinds too, like, straight cuts and angle cuts, possibilities are endless. :waytogo:

Also a chop saw would work, but it would be a little messy.

I'll use my SawzAll. Can you hold the U-Joint please??? :rofl: :rofl:
 

89Suburban

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I'll use my SawzAll. Can you hold the U-Joint please??? :rofl: :rofl:
Neener, neener....

Would a plasma cutter work on something like this and make a clean cut? Or is it too thick?
 

78shortandwide

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What are you going to use to cut them? We have a bad ass cut saw at work. Anybody have a milling machine? That would be really nice to open up a couple layers at a time and pics of a few layers. Maybe even different cuts or grinds too, like, straight cuts and angle cuts, possibilities are endless. :waytogo:

Also a chop saw would work, but it would be a little messy.

I have a grinder and a saws all put the u joint in the vise and cut away.
My buddy has a chop saw if i need it.
 

78shortandwide

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That would be great Tom. Do you by any chance happen to know the brand name of them??? If not, maybe there are some markings on it that say Made in USA or Made in China. Any of that type info would be great for comparisons.

I know the greasable one is from Oriely and was brand new when it broke. i'm not sure if i still have the none greasable one but if i do it is a stock unit that came with my truck.

EDIT The u joint i have is non greasable from o'reilly
 
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