Driver4r's Monte

[DoubleDingo]

I just read an article about it on super chevy. It would be a nice conversion, but even they said it would easier and less expensive to get a roller block instead of converting a flat tappet block. I bet that vortec 350 would wake up even more with rollers though

Okay, I won't highjack your thread anymore. Thanks for the info on rollers.

 

[bucket]

I actually went with a roller block this time around. It's cheeper than a retro kit. With a retro kit you will have the run the link bar style lifters which will run you about 4-500. Then with a cam that let's say is another 4-500. There's 1k already.

So unless you run a small base cam (.900) the oem roller blocks and lifters will do the job.if you run a small base cam then your back to the link style.

But small base cams are for BIG lift. We're talking like 750+.

But all in all. In a retro kit it's the roller cam bushing(if gear drive timing), the link bar lifters, and the cam.


And as for the deck plate. If a machine shop does it. I was told it's like 150-200 more. Just cause it takes more time to setup. And the gain is minimal unless your building an all out performance engine and need every ounce of power you can pull.

It's not THAT expensive. Howard's lifters are a good deal even at the increased price and the average cam ain't that much either. I think it was around $330 for my lifters and around $300 for the Comp cam, and that's big block stuff.

I'd say every situation is different. If starting a new build, for sure go with a factory roller block. But if you just want to upgrade a current healthy engine, going with the retro setup is probably best.

 

[Driver4r]

It's not THAT expensive. Howard's lifters are a good deal even at the increased price and the average cam ain't that much either. I think it was around $330 for my lifters and around $300 for the Comp cam, and that's big block stuff.

I'd say every situation is different. If starting a new build, for sure go with a factory roller block. But if you just want to upgrade a current healthy engine, going with the retro setup is probably best.

Agreed. I was talking more of a performance price range (300+ dur.) (What my cam is)

 

[Green79Scottsdale]

I was just looking at retro-fits for my 400. I would agree too, starting fresh I would try to find a roller block. But I want to keep my extra 50ci. so I will be doing a conversion.

What are the specs on the cam you are going with Driver4r?

 

[bucket]

Agreed. I was talking more of a performance price range (300+ dur.) (What my cam is)

The Comp rollers I was picking from were the same price from mild to wild. Howard's cams were actually cheaper from what I remember, but even the mild ones were too much lift for my stock heads.

 

[Driver4r]

Christmas

 

[HotRodPC]

Thanks. I did it all myself.

It's a deck plate. It basically preloads the block when you bore it. The metalergy inside the block thinks the heads are bolted on. So when you bolt the heads on its perfectly straight.

Deck plate vs. Non it's not a whole lot of difference. But I think it's like .001-.002 out of round if not used.

And I wanted it PERFECT.

And for those who are following this. I actually went .031 instead of. 030. Who can tell me why?

I was wondering what that plate was for, now I know. Makes sense. We didn't have one when we rebuilt my engine, but it was a re-ring rebuild on mine.

Is it difficult to convert to roller? If my new cam takes a dump I I will consider going roller for sure. In the meantime I add zddp to my oil, but not too much. I added 6 oz of 3x zddp to my oil change. The bottle says to add more, but I've read that too much zinc is a bad thing.

You're very close in your description of what a deck plate does. But at least you know what it is. Many don't. When you need precision it's the way to go. You're right in it simulates a head being bolted to the block. You torque the plate down to the same spec you're going to torque your heads. This could be different depending if you're using cast iron heads or aluminum heads. The purpose is so that AFTER a bore job and short block assembly, then you torque your heads down, you pull the tops of the cylinders out of round. The deck plate ensures that your cylinders will stay round from top to bottom even with heads torqued down to spec.

 

[HotRodPC]

You're very close in your description of what a deck plate does. But at least you know what it is. Many don't. When you need precision it's the way to go. You're right in it simulates a head being bolted to the block. You torque the plate down to the same spec you're going to torque your heads. This could be different depending if you're using cast iron heads or aluminum heads. The purpose is so that AFTER a bore job and short block assembly, then you torque your heads down, you pull the tops of the cylinders out of round. The deck plate ensures that your cylinders will stay round from top to bottom even with heads torqued down to spec.

BTW, Hi Performance Olds, A Deck Plate bore job is just about a requirement. SBC don't get out near as much as a Olds with all the head bolts and the size of them.

 

[Driver4r]

You're very close in your description of what a deck plate does. But at least you know what it is. Many don't. When you need precision it's the way to go. You're right in it simulates a head being bolted to the block. You torque the plate down to the same spec you're going to torque your heads. This could be different depending if you're using cast iron heads or aluminum heads. The purpose is so that AFTER a bore job and short block assembly, then you torque your heads down, you pull the tops of the cylinders out of round. The deck plate ensures that your cylinders will stay round from top to bottom even with heads torqued down to spec.

Basically what I said. We just word things differently. And I was alot more vague.


And I got more parts

 

[Driver4r]

FINALLY after 2 weeks I got my cam.

And yes the engine is clean. It's just lint from the towels. I'll get all of it befor I put the heads on.

 

[Driver4r]

New springs arnt exactly what I ordered.....

The one with less coils are the new

 

[Driver4r]

Typo'd ^^. But corrected

 

[Driver4r]

This engine had been nothing but a headache....... parts interfering.... parts not being what the were supposed to..... parts taking forever to get here......

 

[Driver4r]

Update, Engines been done since oct. It hasnt see to many miles yet, mabey 20ish. Reason being because of the rear gears, They arnt nearly enough for this cam and convertor. (I put a 3500 stall in it). So its seen a few miles from having fun and from the local blacktop. Runs great.

Now im building another trans for it since i have the resources at school(tables and class time). Its a VERY built th350, most would call it unstreetable but guess what? Its my car and ill make it how i wish lol, the cam is probly more than most would consider streetable, so it fits.

When the trans is done ill start gathering parts for the 9" build, 4.56's spooled

 

[Driver4r]

A few pics of the trans build. I didnt take many, but I will get one of the trans tomorrow.

Thats type F if anyone would like to know.