Could someone give a confident recommendation for a good quality line bending/flaring tools?

[FreeTruck]

I don't want to use nickel copper line due to a combination of it's softness and where I'm going to locating the lines I want to make. So I'd like to use stainless, which seems to be the harder, tougher material to work with. That said, I'm leery of any of the $20 specials, but I also don't want to spend $300 on a Mastercool brand if I don't have to. Anyone have a more reasonable alternative?

 

[legopnuematic]

What lines are you wanting to make? Brake lines, fuel lines?

For brake lines in stainless, it's pretty hard to beat premade ones between buying the fittings, stainless line, the time to actually make them. If oe lines will work for what you want.

I have a Maddox hydraulic flaring tool, I haven't used it much, but have been pleased thus far. I believe they (Maddox automotive tools) will be on sale for like 30% off next week as part of the parking lot sale

A friend has the eastwood vise mount/lever actuated flaring tool, that works decent too, but does take more effort than the hydraulic one of course. It did nice work on 3/16 stainless lines for their 67 Camaro.

 

[legopnuematic]

Oh and for benders Ridgid and Imperial Eastman are very highly regarded, you do pay for that of course.

 

[Turbo4whl]

Imperial Eastman for the win.

You must be registered for see images attach

Not sure this model is still in production. One size does one size. I have 2 different, 3/16 and 1/4. Mine, that I have had for many years are not rusty. This one on the bay.

CLICK HERE

 

[FreeTruck]

What lines are you wanting to make? Brake lines, fuel lines?

For brake lines in stainless, it's pretty hard to beat premade ones between buying the fittings, stainless line, the time to actually make them. If oe lines will work for what you want.

I have a Maddox hydraulic flaring tool, I haven't used it much, but have been pleased thus far. I believe they (Maddox automotive tools) will be on sale for like 30% off next week as part of the parking lot sale

A friend has the eastwood vise mount/lever actuated flaring tool, that works decent too, but does take more effort than the hydraulic one of course. It did nice work on 3/16 stainless lines for their 67 Camaro.

I believe they are all fuel lines. One is to the carb, one goes back to the charcoal box, and the other looks like a return to the tank. I'm thinking stainless would be best, normal steel at least. I need to remake the three that go under the passenger side motor mount as they were interfering with my newly installed headers, so I bent the 3/8 line back a little to give it clearance, but it would still be way too close in my opinion even if I bent them some more to tuck into the frame rail. I'm thinking I'll need to bend up totally new lines and possibly go on top and slightly around the mount (should it ever need to be removed), then kick back a little bit and ride on top of the rail. In that position, I think it would be too easy to ding and dent the nickel copper variety line, even if secured well down with clips and the like.

I would go for stainless, but hardly any of the kits I see out there support stainless, so I may just have to go with something like the Maddox and just use plain steel lines. Still searching.

Thanks for the link to the benders guys.

 

[dusterdude]

Sur&r,if you want to spend some money

 

[Radiohead]

Almost sounds like a heat shield would be easier to fab/less expensive than doing the fuel lines over in stainless

 

[Old Guy Bill]

The factory routed those lines under that motor mount, in my opinion that's the best location. Plenty of folks have headers with stock fuel lines.
Stainless is harder to work with than plain steel.. if this is this gonna be a "show" type of build OK, but for everyday use steel will work just fine.
Tubing benders vary in size and shape, it's the person using that makes the difference.
The flare tool can be very difficult to keep the tubing from slipping while flaring. A good quality tool is gonna cost more...

 

[Ricko1966]

Hmm the steel fuel lines on my.Chevelle are 60 years old and still going strong. Chances are plain old steel lines will last longer than you will.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

There's no reason not to use nicop everywhere.

I have for years on multiple builds.

Absolutely no reason and nothing gained riding the struggle bus and added cost of stainless.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

I vote plain steel. I've got a 48 gmc that was off the road for 40+ years up north. No line was rusted and there was still clean fluid in the lines.

Show vehicles can be worthy of stainless and the struggle.

Plain steel looks just fine, plenty easy to work with, and lasts 50+ years.

Personally I wouldn't trust the copper stuff myself, obviously it works and is easy to work with, just not for me. I do a lot of gravel, even if I didn't don't know that I would use it. Temporarily? Sure.

I bought the summit version(cheaper, same tool) of the Eastwood vise flaring tool, works great. Easy. No complaints. Can't do a line on the vehicle obviously.

I like the few S.U.R.R tools I've got, very nice quality, mid-lowhighs price range. Been eyeing the handheld flare tool for awhile.

 

[waterpirate]

There's no reason not to use nicop everywhere.

I have for years on multiple builds.

Absolutely no reason and nothing gained riding the struggle bus and added cost of stainless.

He said " struggle bus " words of wisdom there. I would not waste the time or money on stainless capable tools unless you have a use for them beyond this project. Buy once, cry once when buying tools. I would buy pre made replacements and move along.
Eric

 

[LINE MAKER 89]

master cool make a nice hydraulic kit does double flare in stainless well can also buy dies for 37 degree JIC fittings (AN) for benders Ridigid make a beautiful bender