Finally got a running 65 C10

[1low4x4]

Well…..I knew this was coming after I fixed the brakes heard them chirp yesterday, and sure enough, slid right through an intersection today trying to get off the highway. Ever feel like you’re being pushed off the road by someone riding your ass? 18 wheeler behind me in a 45 mph zone, I turned my blinker on WAY before hand, started slowing down but the street I’m turning on turns back sharply to the right so I had to hit the brakes (I was worried about asshole behind me ramming me because he wasn’t backing off) and we slid in front of (thankfully) the car that was in the turning lane there. Daughter embarrassed, I was able to back up enough without backing into the highway, crank the wheel 30,000 turns to the right to make the road and along we went. No abs brakes is a negative. Next time I’ll start slowing down WAY beforehand.

Besides that, it was funny cause my daughter is having a friend over for the night, they’re 16, we had to take pokey cause my white work truck only has two seats and her moms crew cab is getting a new transmission. They both yelled when they slammed the door after getting in, cause without good seals (and probably even with them) these doors are LOUD

 

[1low4x4]

Oh, today I took my pipes and mufflers off and spot welded up a few pinholes where I could feel exhaust escaping before the mufflers. I was hoping to fix what I think is a very loud exhaust leak under the truck.I just can’t figure out where it could be…the headers are new, the gaskets at collectors are super tight with grade 8 hardware, I have fel pro gaskets at heads with stage 8 locking bolts. It sure sounds like a pretty good exhaust leak, especially upon acceleration. I will say somewhere on the passenger side header at the head has a leak because I can hear the tick. Surely it couldn’t be the calls of such a loud sound, but now that I think about it, I’m going to Try to fool with that tomorrow. Absolutely no oil from the valve cover gaskets so far. The other day after finishing the brakes, I took the truck to the car wash and blasted it underneath. Everything is still dry as a bone under there.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Oh, today I took my pipes and mufflers off and spot welded up a few pinholes where I could feel exhaust escaping before the mufflers. I was hoping to fix what I think is a very loud exhaust leak under the truck.I just can’t figure out where it could be…the headers are new, the gaskets at collectors are super tight with grade 8 hardware, I have fel pro gaskets at heads with stage 8 locking bolts. It sure sounds like a pretty good exhaust leak, especially upon acceleration. I will say somewhere on the passenger side header at the head has a leak because I can hear the tick. Surely it couldn’t be the calls of such a loud sound, but now that I think about it, I’m going to Try to fool with that tomorrow. Absolutely no oil from the valve cover gaskets so far. The other day after finishing the brakes, I took the truck to the car wash and blasted it underneath. Everything is still dry as a bone under there.

Unless they didn't completely weld the pipes to the flange, leaving a hole somewhere on the bottom out of sight?

 

[1low4x4]

Unless they didn't completely weld the pipes to the flange, leaving a hole somewhere on the bottom out of sight?

Idk…. Today I tightened two of the locking header bolts on the passenger side that I thought might be the problem, but it didn’t fix anything.

 

[1low4x4]

Crazy to me how this is the oil pressure at idle and the engine seems to not care. 40 pounds of pressure at 70 miles an hour or really any miles per hour other than idle.

Also, I think the truck looks way better without the beauty rings on the wheels.

 

[Ricko1966]

10psi per 1000 rpm is the general rule. Oil pressure is also heat and viscosity dependant.

 

[1low4x4]

10psi per 1000 rpm is the general rule. Oil pressure is also heat and viscosity dependant.

60 pounds cold, 40 at all speeds when warm. 20/50 VR1.

 

[idahovette]

I like the pic of the passenger!!!!!!

 

[1low4x4]

Been working on Zach’s square body, so haven’t done much to mine. Did take care of this clutch rod, though, connects under the dash and goes through the floorboard. It was like this on both ends, 60 years of wear and tear. Beating around all loose, Louder than two skeletons f%#*ing

 

[1low4x4]

Also I calculated today, I've spent $3,300 on the truck since I bought it not counting things like fluids, gear oil, coolant, motor oils, etc. Thats all things like cam kit, poppys patina, gaskets and bolts, dampener, valve covers, alt, oh, radiator, hoses, brakes So purchase price of $8,000, I'm in it about $11,300.00 now. Thats about to go up exponentially this coming year early.

The first thing I want to do is repair/replace floorboards, rockers etc. Get all the holes filled.
Second, sound deadener and carpet, window and door seals
Third, Figure out how much I want to drop it, do that while also replacing all the steering up front.
4th, I cant do the steering without converting it to power so that will be happening
5th, I cant really do all that without figuring out how I'm going to convert to 5 lug at the same time (I want more wheel choices)

After that theres the OD transmission.....I wanna do a 355 I got maybe

Or maybe I do the transmission before all that? God, it would make this thing so much more fun too drive to have auto OD of some sort. I know weve talked about 10 different options and I still havent decided yet

 

[1low4x4]

Oh yeah picked up a tree today

 

[bucket]

If it's running well and making decent-ish power, the trans maybe should be done before an engine swap. May as well get more use out of the engine work you've already done and it sounds like an overdrive auto may make a bigger improvement for what you want than more power.

 

[bluex]

Third, Figure out how much I want to drop it, do that while also replacing all the steering up front.
4th, I cant do the steering without converting it to power so that will be happening
5th, I cant really do all that without figuring out how I'm going to convert to 5 lug at the same time (I want more wheel choices)

A 5 lug disc brake swap with a drop spindle will accomplish alot of that in one shot. If you decide you don't want to mess with the rear they also offer them in 6 lug too. Master power brakes has good kits an you can get them with a booster/master too if you want.

Captianfab on the 67-72 forum sells a nice power steering bracket setup for the 63-66 trucks.

I have a thread in the suspension forum about lowering. There's a section in it on 63-72 trucks along with squares an I also covered gmt400 as well.

 

[1low4x4]

If it's running well and making decent-ish power, the trans maybe should be done before an engine swap. May as well get more use out of the engine work you've already done and it sounds like an overdrive auto may make a bigger improvement for what you want than more power

Yeah the engine swap will definitely be last in all this. I like the 283

 

[1low4x4]

A 5 lug disc brake swap with a drop spindle will accomplish alot of that in one shot. If you decide you don't want to mess with the rear they also offer them in 6 lug too. Master power brakes has good kits an you can get them with a booster/master too if you want.

Captianfab on the 67-72 forum sells a nice power steering bracket setup for the 63-66 trucks.

I have a thread in the suspension forum about lowering. There's a section in it on 63-72 trucks along with squares an I also covered gmt400 as well.

I’ll check it out. Definitly want to go 5 lug front and back