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[hey mister]

With just under 100K in the clock, it's been slow leaking motor oil out front and rear crank ends....and maybe oil pan...hard to tell with crank leak.
This is going to be a solo effort.
I've never yanked a big motor before or even assisted, so this will be "fun"...
First hurdle will be getting that 2 acres of hood off by myself. I may have a trick or two up my sleeve...we'll see.
On the list to do:
Seals / gaskets,
Oil pan,
Maybe a flexplate,
Dizzy,
Trans cross member "modification", (to allow pan to be removed with ease)
Motor mounts,
Maybe scrape some grunge off.....well, then I'll have to paint it ...aarrgghhh.

I'm debating whether to remove the tranny with the motor or just jacking it up far enut to get the cross member out.

I do not have a car lift. Just an A frame "I" beam trolley / chain fall rig and a load leveler.

 

[Ricko1966]

It's a 2 piece rear seal you don't have to pull the engine or transmission,to do front and rear seal,or oil pan gasket. Change the timing set while you are there. Change the PCV valve and valve cover gaskets and you should be pretty leak free,also check the oil pressure switch/sender. You do have a working pcv system I'm assuming,no aftermarket valve covers and all pcv hooked up as factory? Many,many rear main,and oil pan leaks have actually turned out to be incorrect crankcase ventilation or leaking oil pressure senders.

 

[Chevy 88]

I agree with '66 - I would not pull the motor, based on the description of the problems.

 

[fast 99]

Can also leak at rear corners of intake. Might suggest oil dye and black light purchase to diagnose source of leak. Pan gaskets are more difficult in the vehicle, spend the extra money for a 1 piece.

 

[hey mister]

Yes, I have stock/factory valve covers and oil pan.
I was going to put on a Milodon pan.

PCV was replaced when I bought the truck 3 years ago. It was leaking oil then.

I did put on a ventilated tranny oil pan in the spring.
It has straight pan walls and is so close to the cross member, I have to take off the tranny mount to get the back row of bolts out.

I do have a few manuals...I guess I need to maybe read them and find out about changing the lower seals /gaskets.

Thanks for the replies guys.

 

[hey mister]

Can also leak at rear corners of intake. Might suggest oil dye and black light purchase to diagnose source of leak. Pan gaskets are more difficult in the vehicle, spend the extra money for a 1 piece.

I actually suspect the front passenger corner is leaking oil. It's puddled in the freeze plug.

 

[hoagster]

This and no brakes prompted me to tear down my whole truck.

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I have to admit every thing was leaking! I know it's taken a long time to get her back to where she is now but It was worth it. Still have a lot to do.

 

[hey mister]

This and no brakes prompted me to tear down my whole truck.

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I h R3ave to admit every thing was leaking! I know it's taken a long time to get her back to where she is now but It was worth it. Still have a lot to do.

Yep...that's what mine looks like, for the most part.. well, I did paint my valve covers...the wrong shade of blue....
Oh...and my water pump has a chrome pulley on it...
That gave me a 1/2 mpg net gain...lol

 

[Sad Sack]

Get a Sneaky Pete

 

[Grit dog]

Few thoughts since you haven’t removed an engine before. Having a second person for removing the hood and removing and reinstalling the engine is highly advisable.
The hood especially, if you care about your paint. Even if you sling it like a Christmas present from your gantry it will be hard to control.
Stabbing the engine back in, never done it solo but I feel it would be a bit frustrating and tiresome. I’d not do both engine and trans together solo or even think about it.
Someone will say it’s possible. I know it is. And on a deserted island I’d figure it out. But yeah….
I assume the engine runs strong and purrs like a kitten? Just considering to help you decide if it’s worth the hassle (especially 1st time and solo) for a Rustoleum rebuild. Because fixing all those leaks in frame is possible and basically solo work. But a true top notch Rustoleum rebuild is best done on a stand.

 

[hey mister]

Get a Sneaky Pete

I tried to find a sneaky pete...it just keeps giving me a stupid tv show....
So, what is a sneaky pete.?

 

[Sad Sack]

I tried to find a sneaky pete...it just keeps giving me a stupid tv show....
So, what is a sneaky pete.?

Amazon.com: Lisle 27000 Sneaky Pete Tool : Automotive

Buy Lisle 27000 Sneaky Pete Tool: Special Application Pullers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[hey mister]

Few thoughts since you haven’t removed an engine before. Having a second person for removing the hood and removing and reinstalling the engine is highly advisable.
The hood especially, if you care about your paint. Even if you sling it like a Christmas present from your gantry it will be hard to control.
Stabbing the engine back in, never done it solo but I feel it would be a bit frustrating and tiresome. I’d not do both engine and trans together solo or even think about it.
Someone will say it’s possible. I know it is. And on a deserted island I’d figure it out. But yeah….
I assume the engine runs strong and purrs like a kitten? Just considering to help you decide if it’s worth the hassle (especially 1st time and solo) for a Rustoleum rebuild. Because fixing all those leaks in frame is possible and basically solo work. But a true top notch Rustoleum rebuild is best done on a stand.

The engine does run great.
And I don't have to paint the motor, but occasionally the wife and I hit the cruise in's and folks like to see the engine bay.
But this was my real reason for pulling the motor besides fixing leaks.
The prevous owner applied multiple layers of Ziebart undercoating on everything.
I can barely check the oil without ruining a shirt and if I pull the tranny dipstick, I'm schmutzed. 47 years later, the truck still drips undercoating on the core support and else where.
I was wanting to clean some of that off the motor.
There is no doubt, I will have to strip down on the back porch before entering house each time.
I picked up some nice aluminum accessory brackets and chrome pulleys. (they were cheap at summit)
All that on a gunked up motor is just too "shade tree - hold my beer, watch this" for me....I do have some dignity....left....lol

 

[hey mister]

Amazon.com: Lisle 27000 Sneaky Pete Tool : Automotive

Buy Lisle 27000 Sneaky Pete Tool: Special Application Pullers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Neither of the manuals say anything about dropping/loosening the crank to replace lower seals or gasket.
The gasket doesn't go around the top of the crank.
...I'm a tad confused where a sneaky pete would be used.

 

[hey mister]

My bad.
The rear seal does go over the top of the crank.
Just got to the part of removing the rear main journal....
Krap....there's a rethink...