Old77’s GMT400 SWB 4x4 5-speed project/DD

[legopnuematic]

What kind of drill bits are you using? A real (not hardware store) M42 HSCO (high speed cobalt) drill should be able to make its way through without issue.

Also I have found when trying to pound solid rivets out, sometime going the other direction goes easier. Not sure if it’s because of some misalignment stack up or diameter difference or what, but might be something to try.

Or a Carbide burr on a die grinder and knaw it away.

 

[Old77]

What kind of drill bits are you using? A real (not hardware store) M42 HSCO (high speed cobalt) drill should be able to make its way through without issue.

Also I have found when trying to pound solid rivets out, sometime going the other direction goes easier. Not sure if it’s because of some misalignment stack up or diameter difference or what, but might be something to try.

Or a Carbide burr on a die grinder and knaw it away.

Yesterday I got some Dewalt Carbide bits and they worked pretty well in the lower ball joints. Or at least better than my other bits were. I could definitely stand to have an actual good set of drill bits. I think that definitely bit me in the beginning. And I might have to go down the Carbide route on that 4th hole on the upper arm. We'll see what progress brings tonight after work and see how things go. I'd REALLY like to have job wrapped up by the end of the night tonight.

 

[TotalyHucked]

That sucks they don't sell loaded lowers for those truck. I try to avoid just doing balljoints like the plague just because of this kinda fight. Hope you get it licked soon

 

[Old77]

That sucks they don't sell loaded lowers for those truck. I try to avoid just doing balljoints like the plague just because of this kinda fight. Hope you get it licked soon

I'm thinking I'll have it handled by the end of night tonight after a few more hours of work. I'll finish up the lower ball joint as it's not far from being done and then attack that upper again. The only reason I'm even fighting this upper ball joint rather than buying a whole new arm with new bushings and ball joint is because I got this Detroit Axle ball joint with the purchase of the truck and a new upper arm is $150. I like "free" better than spending more money so I'll continue punishing myself

I'll be sure and keep everyone updated. New bolts for bolting down the seat are supposed to arrive tomorrow so the plan is to wrap this up tonight and get the seat back in the truck so she's drivable again When taking the seat out last week I found that the seat had been put in at some point with super random hardware. I cannot handle that so I had to buy all new stuff.

 

[legopnuematic]

Got a picture or a link to those carbide bits? Just curious.

Surprised it’s gone this far without a hit it with your purse comment

Ya know, if they had done put a solid front axle in them trucks you wouldn’t have to fight it like that…

If you were closer I’d loan you some good drill bits.

 

[Old77]

Got a picture or a link to those carbide bits? Just curious.

Surprised it’s gone this far without a hit it with your purse comment

Ya know, if they had done put a solid front axle in them trucks you wouldn’t have to fight it like that…

If you were closer I’d loan you some good drill bits.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-14-Piece-Cobalt-Twist-Drill-Bit/50413714

yeah, @animal must be off his game

It really is the weirdest thing. I've done ball joints like this numerous times and in the past I've always gotten it to the point that I could just punch it out and have NEVER had to 100% completely drill out the hole and STILL have the underside of the rivet hand on to the control arm until I hit it with a chisel a few times. Freaking crazy! LOL And I thought replacing that upper cab corner was going to be the hard part of this project

 

[legopnuematic]

I’m kind of suspicious of those DeWalt bits, I’m not really seeing anything that says they are really high speed cobalt.

These are a couple Precision Twist drills, top two are cobalt, shown saying CO and having that reduced diameter at the end of the shank.

Bottom is just a regular High speed drill, just says HSS.

You must be registered for see images attach

So a real cobalt drill should either say HSCO, CO, M35 or M42, have the shank reduced at the end, etc.

Thinking they might be a cobalt coating, like TiN, or Titanium Nitride.

I’d recommend Harry J Epstein in KC if you want some real cobalt drills, since you are relatively local:
Link for a 5/16 Norseman

 

[Old77]

I’m kind of suspicious of those DeWalt bits, I’m not really seeing anything that says they are really high speed cobalt.

These are a couple Precision Twist drills, top two are cobalt, shown saying CO and having that reduced diameter at the end of the shank.

Bottom is just a regular High speed drill, just says HSS.

You must be registered for see images attach

So a real cobalt drill should either say HSCO, CO, M35 or M42, have the shank reduced at the end, etc.

Thinking they might be a cobalt coating, like TiN, or Titanium Nitride.

I’d recommend Harry J Epstein in KC if you want some real cobalt drills, since you are relatively local:
Link for a 5/16 Norseman

Very good info! Thank you, Spencer! I'll definitely check it out regardless of the outcome of this project. I don't normally do a lot of drilling but when I do I constantly fight it because my drill bits are garbage and don't stay sharp for very long no matter what kind or how much cutting fluid I use. Appreciate the knowledge share

Better than that bozo @89Suburban for sure! That feller is a doofus

 

[TotalyHucked]

I definitely never expected the cab repair to be the easy part

 

[bucket]

I’m kind of suspicious of those DeWalt bits, I’m not really seeing anything that says they are really high speed cobalt.

These are a couple Precision Twist drills, top two are cobalt, shown saying CO and having that reduced diameter at the end of the shank.

Bottom is just a regular High speed drill, just says HSS.

You must be registered for see images attach

So a real cobalt drill should either say HSCO, CO, M35 or M42, have the shank reduced at the end, etc.

Thinking they might be a cobalt coating, like TiN, or Titanium Nitride.

I’d recommend Harry J Epstein in KC if you want some real cobalt drills, since you are relatively local:
Link for a 5/16 Norseman

I've used many Dewalt bits that have been purchased for use in the shop. They definitely do not like any kind of speed or heat. The dingbats we hire can ruin them in very short order.

 

[Old77]

I've used many Dewalt bits that have been purchased for use in the shop. They definitely do not like any kind of speed or heat. The dingbats we hire can ruin them in very short order.

***raises hand to let the group know he's a ding bat***


I can't help but try and go fast cuz my brain says "LET'S DO THIS AND DRILL THIS MFER OUT!!!!!" ........ Doesn't work but that my natural tendancy every......single.....time : I DO try to keep them cool, though. So maybe I'm just a ding and not a bat? Or a bat but not a ding?