Winter Plans

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GOBR

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Alright so Ive decided to re-ring the engine. While Im thinkin this Im also thinkin higher compression.... Tax time comes it will get aluminum heads or some big port Vortecs. Few questions. Remember this will NOT be a DD any longer after this winter.

10.5 or 11:1 compression?

Bigger cam or stay where I am? I currently have XE274. Was thinkin solid cam maybe around the same size??? Custom cam maybe?

Aluminum Pro Comps with Comp valve train or big port Vortecs?

Bigger stall? Currently a 2200. Foot brakes to around 2100 flashes around 2400. Rearend is around a 373 I beleive with the size tires I have. I will find out soon tho when I change the fluid.

Lookin for opinions. I dont care bout mileage, streetability or nothin after this winter. I mean I might drive it to work a couple times but it will be mainly a toy. Im lookin to go atleast 12's on a 100 shot.
 

bucket

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I understand it won't be a DD anymore, but a street toy still needs to have a few manners. Unless you are building a toy that will spend 90% of the time at the track, you won't want to go TOO crazy with it.

I'd say keep the compression at 9.5-10.0 even with aluminum heads. And about aluminum heads, don't go cheap. Quality cast iron is better than cheap alum.

I'd also say just go 383 with it.
 

Driver4r

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Sleeve the block with .30 over 350 sleeves. and Rerun a set of 355 pistons. They are a GOOD engine, with all around +'s. They run high rpms, and yet good torque motors. I would take a 355 over a 383. But i would take a 434 over both.
 

Jims86

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434 smallblock with a procharger F1 @12psi,and a 100 hp shot of nitrous with a 4l80 and a dana 60 with 4:11s....put a burb in the high 11's
 
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HotRodPC

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Yep, keep the compression down if you're sqeezin it !!! NOS motors don't like high compression, and you'll blow it fairly quick and won't get many shots or long use of the motor. Granted, bigger cams will bleed off some compression so your dynamic ratio is certianly going to be different from your static. I've got an idea of what you want to do. I see buckets point of keeping some manners buttt, if it's a toy and nothing but, Rock on with it, but you'll have to deal with hose bad mannerisms like running hot, lurching, extremely poor fuel mpg etc.

In my 64 GMC years ago, I had an 11:1 motor with a .510lift 305 duration cam running a double pumper 750cfm on a single plane intake, and 3500 stall converter. Horrible mpg, always running 210-220 and to 240 if I had to sit in LA traffic and that's using a booster E fan with a ginormous 4 core radiator I had built. I didn't have a problem lurching with the high stall. Never had it to the track. All illegal street racing every Friday and Saturday night. Also keep in mind, I could get 93 leaded pump gas at the Union 76 station. Occasionally when I could afford it, I'd get a tank of Trick Racing 101 octane I think it was. It ran reallllll good on the Trick fuel. No squeeze or boost though. All motor, Th350 massaged by me, and a Dana 60 LSD 4.56 rear end on 31x10'50's and occasionally 33x12.50's on the rear. It was in the high 11's most likely maybe low 12's depending on how well we did our stop watch since I never had it at the track and a trap to tell speed and ET.
 

bucket

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Sleeve the block with .30 over 350 sleeves. and Rerun a set of 355 pistons. They are a GOOD engine, with all around +'s. They run high rpms, and yet good torque motors. I would take a 355 over a 383. But i would take a 434 over both.

This makes no sense to me. A set of pistons will cost much less than sleeving all the cylinders IF it even needs bored again to begin with. Yeah, it will be .060 over and the next time it needs a rebuild it can't be bored again. Big deal, just start with another cheap and plentiful 350 block. The only time you want to have a block sleeved is if you're doing a 100% stock resto and need the original block with the original numbers on it.

And a 383 is a better choice for a heavy truck, better low end torque to get it off the line faster
 

Driver4r

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This makes no sense to me. A set of pistons will cost much less than sleeving all the cylinders IF it even needs bored again to begin with. Yeah, it will be .060 over and the next time it needs a rebuild it can't be bored again. Big deal, just start with another cheap and plentiful 350 block. The only time you want to have a block sleeved is if you're doing a 100% stock resto and need the original block with the original numbers on it.

And a 383 is a better choice for a heavy truck, better low end torque to get it off the line faster

.060 is too much for an over-bore. Max i would recamend is .040. If you sleeve it and get hard sleeves, they should last a few sets of pistons. and around here the circle track guys are eating up our 350 blocks.
 

bucket

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.060 is too much for an over-bore. Max i would recamend is .040. If you sleeve it and get hard sleeves, they should last a few sets of pistons. and around here the circle track guys are eating up our 350 blocks.

OK, in some builder's opinion an .060 is too much, but many blocks can take it. But like you said, an .040 might be all it needs. If it needs bored at all... OP never said the reason for new rings. Also, the OP isn't building a circle track motor, he wants to shove a truck down a straight track one quick blast at a time.
 

Driver4r

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OK, in some builder's opinion an .060 is too much, but many blocks can take it. But like you said, an .040 might be all it needs. If it needs bored at all... OP never said the reason for new rings. Also, the OP isn't building a circle track motor, he wants to shove a truck down a straight track one quick blast at a time.

What i was reffering to about the circle track, is that around here the blocks are getting harder to find.
 

bucket

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What i was reffering to about the circle track, is that around here the blocks are getting harder to find.

Gotcha. I'm not used to that, I've got 5 or 6 of them around here that were cheap or free. I only set out to buy one of them, the rest fell in my lap basically.
 

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Gotcha. I'm not used to that, I've got 5 or 6 of them around here that were cheap or free. I only set out to buy one of them, the rest fell in my lap basically.

Im jelious.
 

HotRodPC

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I've got 2 Two Pc Rear main seal 350 Standard Bore blocks in the backyard, 1 of which is 4 bolt main, 1 Single Pc Rear Main 4 bolt 350 Standard Bore in the backyard, and a Standard Bore 4 bolt main 2pc in the garage so that's what? 4 total spares, and a 4 bolt main standard in the K1500. I wouldn't hesitate to take a 350 to .060 but no more. Guess it's possible for circle trackers to not want to go .060, but seems to me after they get done with it at .040, should be able to make a street or drag race motor out of it after they were done with it. I used to not like to go .040 over cuz you couldn't get Plasma Moly rings but in .030 or .060 but not .040. I'd imagine that has changed now.
 

bucket

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IIRC, the roundy round guys like to run short rods, right? That's going to side load the piston more and put more wear in the cylinder faster.
 

GOBR

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I believe that 3# oil ring is broke and obviously nobody would just re-ring one cylinder. While I do that I was gonna swap these flat tops for some forged pistons, maybe up the comp a lil bit. My compression is good all around (150 +/-) on all cylinders. My problem is burnin oil at higher RPMs and its foulin #3 plug.

Where I would like to be is around 425 - 450 hp/tq as close to each other as possible. 400/450 would be even better.

Ive really been thinkin hard into gettin a set of Vortecs already worked for higher lift and bigger springs. They are affordable and I believe in my budget.

Basically what I want is a 12 second truck on spray that I can drive to the track and back...... Bout to ditch the power brakes as we speak with the XE274. IF I cant get them to work with a vac can.

A 383 is not in my budget at all right now unless I find a rotating assembly for less than What I can swap pistons and bearings in here for...... If Im gonna build a 383 its gonna be right and its gonna be a slow build with nothin but the best parts.
 

HotRodPC

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I have re rung and replace 1 piston in a 230 I6 before. And also replaced I set of rings in a 327 before. It was a fairly low mileage motor considering and only broke cuz of High performance and just happened to break the ring. Honed the cylinder and bought file to fit rings since they come a little big. The broken ring did score the cylinder, so I honed it quite a bit and and new it would need a few thousandths bigger ring. Worked perfect.
 

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