wheel hop solutions few other ???

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Greybeard

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Hehehehe....I'm just not used to seeing such 'slim' driveshafts. No offense intended. No harm in a slim driveshaft, in fact they likely spin with less vibration as they age since the rotating mass is closer to centerline. On my first truck, after I got the 14 bolt installed I moved up to the largest yoke set available at the time and had a heavy truck shop build one for it (since they were the closest to me). They used a heavy wall class 5 driveshaft tubing that was about 5" diameter. I think stock size something like 3"? :shrug:
 
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frankenstien

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Hehehehe....I'm just not used to seeing such 'slim' driveshafts. No offense intended. No harm in a slim driveshaft, in fact they likely spin with less vibration as they age since the rotating mass is closer to centerline. On my first truck, after I got the 14 bolt installed I moved up to the largest yoke set available at the time and had a heavy truck shop build one for it (since they were the closest to me). They used a heavy wall class 5 driveshaft tubing that was about 5" diameter. I think stock size something like 3"? :shrug:

no offense taken

not sure? 3.5 maybe? yeah i didnt go crazy with it, it has the 1350 u joints i believe, we dont have a fancy drivetrain shop here, just one, and most of it is stock stuff
 

Greybeard

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http://www.calvertracing.com/store/caltracs-3200-c10-7387-standard-3hole-p-28.html

Those, absolutely work. I've used them several times over the year's in leaf spring car's and have always been able to hook up much harder afterwards.

I don't doubt it. The geometry is OK. The issue is however the difference in tire size and the amount of rear a-housing movement in a four wheel drive. In a car the max rear articulation is maybe three inches. In a truck with a lift the size of his, his rear housing could move ten inches or more. Now if they were made of 2" diameter bar-stock with 1-1/2" threads (might be overkill though) I'm sure they wouldn't break.

When I lived in Colorado I worked at a gravel/excavating/asphalt company. They had old hexagonal air drill rod (1" flats, 1/4" hollow) laying around in the weeds so I asked for a couple six foot sections. I never got around to doing it but I was going to temper the ends, machine them down and thread them for some 1" male heim joints I had (using a counter threaded coupler) and mount the fronts up near rear of the t-case yoke and the rear on the bottom (sides of) center of the 14 bolt housing. I was going to kill two birds at once by mounting a driveshaft safety loop to them. I moved and left the rods under the trailer before I got around to it though.
 

frankenstien

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http://www.calvertracing.com/store/caltracs-3200-c10-7387-standard-3hole-p-28.html

Those, absolutely work. I've used them several times over the year's in leaf spring car's and have always been able to hook up much harder afterwards.

caltracs are fairly popular among the duramax trucks from what ive seen, but i think the u bolts have to be the square ones with the plates under the axle.

this is what i am thinking though, it should have the flex i need/want and fix the wheel hop
 

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Jrgunn5150

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It's worth a shot, that design look's like it's not a total nightmare like some lol.
 

Greybeard

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Looks like it's overkill, I like it. But I think the thing could be made with less height at the axle and do just as good.:shrug: The thing is to get no movement at the axle end.
 

frankenstien

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yeah, the brackets in the kit are pre made, but for the price for all the bushings, johnny joint and axle tube pieces i could live with it, overkill? probably, but id like to be able to actually launch my truck, or not burn out 8'' at a time
 

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