What the hell did my truck just do?

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gmbellew

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I thought with TBI, starting with the pedal on the floor was "clear flood" mode and you don't have to unplug the relay?
 

Ricko1966

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As soon as you lift it starts spraying again.
 

RecklessWOT

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The reason I said pull the relay and floor it and crank was with no pump it should crank, start clear up for Just a second, then lean out and die. That tells me it's flooded.Then first thing I usually check is its as Vbb199 the cts, and it's usually the cts

I will pull the relay soon, I really just needed it out of my way. We're in for a mess of a snowstorm tonight and the Burb was blocking my plow, had to get that all hooked up and other stuff in order before it started snowing. I simply didn't have time, I'll play with it one night later this week
 

bucket

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Yeah, it sounds like it could be a failed CTS as well. Does the check engine light work?
 

Ricko1966

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I will pull the relay soon, I really just needed it out of my way. We're in for a mess of a snowstorm tonight and the Burb was blocking my plow, had to get that all hooked up and other stuff in order before it started snowing. I simply didn't have time, I'll play with it one night later this week
Good luck. I hate snow.
 

RecklessWOT

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Yeah, it sounds like it could be a failed CTS as well. Does the check engine light work?
Sure does, and it's actually on steady last couple times I've started it which is unusual for this truck. Didn't pull the code yet, was assuming it was because of the raging misfire but I'm sure it could be a few different codes all at once
 

bucket

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Sure does, and it's actually on steady last couple times I've started it which is unusual for this truck. Didn't pull the code yet, was assuming it was because of the raging misfire but I'm sure it could be a few different codes all at once

Well that's good, it should be much easier to figure out then. Likely a CTS circuit code or a rich code, based on your symptoms.
 
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gmbellew

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the fuel pump can also get power from the oil pressure sending unit once it cranks enough to get 4 psi if the relay is pulled or bad.
 

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@bucket @Vbb199 @Ricko1966

So yeah sure enough it's throwing code 15 which is a CTS error. Is there any way to test the sensor is actually bad? I do get exhaust pockets in the cooling system so I would assume that could trip up even a good sensor.

Sure I know the problem goes away when I fix the engine, but for now even with the bad engine it runs good enough besides this electronic BS, I'd like to continue being able to fart around the property with it until I'm ready for a new engine. Is there any way to bypass/"trick" the sensor to not act up like this?
 

Bextreme04

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@bucket @Vbb199 @Ricko1966

So yeah sure enough it's throwing code 15 which is a CTS error. Is there any way to test the sensor is actually bad? I do get exhaust pockets in the cooling system so I would assume that could trip up even a good sensor.

Sure I know the problem goes away when I fix the engine, but for now even with the bad engine it runs good enough besides this electronic BS, I'd like to continue being able to fart around the property with it until I'm ready for a new engine. Is there any way to bypass/"trick" the sensor to not act up like this?

Check the resistance across the sensor. Code 15 is for excessively cold temp reading... which basically means either the sensor is bad or a wire is disconnected. The higher the resistance the colder the temp. So a short will make it think it is very hot and an open will read as very cold. The colder the reading the more fuel it dumps in.... so that is likely the issue. I stole these values from another forum, but here you go for readings at the CTS itself. Don't mistake it for the gauge sender.

15 - Coolant Sensor Circuit - Excessive Low temperature indicated


To test the coolant sensor, unplug the wire connector and test the resistance across the two terminals of the SENSOR with an ohm meter.

The sensor screws into the intake manifold, on the front passenger side, by the thermostat housing.

Coolant sensor approximate resistance specifications:
177 ohms @ 212 deg. F. or 100 deg. C.
241 ohms @ 194 deg. F. or 90 deg. C.
332 ohms @ 176 deg. F. or 80 deg. C.
467 ohms @ 158 deg. F. or 70 deg. C.
667 ohms @ 140 deg. F. or 60 deg. C.
973 ohms @ 122 deg. F. or 50 deg. C.
1188 ohms @ 113 deg. F. or45 deg. C.
1459 ohms @ 104 deg. F. or 40 deg. C.
1802 ohms @ 95 deg. F. or 35 deg. C.
2238 ohms @ 86 deg. F. or 30 deg. C.
2796 ohms @ 77 deg. F. or 25 deg. C.
3520 ohms @ 68 deg. F. or 20 deg. C.
4450 ohms @ 59 deg. F. or 15 deg. C.
5670 ohms @ 50 deg. F. or 10 deg. C.
7280 ohms @ 41 deg. F. or 5 deg. C.
9420 ohms @ 32 deg. F. or 0 deg. C.
12300 ohms @ 23 deg. F. or -5 deg. C.
16180 ohms @ 14 deg. F. or -10 deg. C.
21450 ohms @ 5 deg. F. or -15 deg. C.
28680 ohms @ -4 deg. F. or -20 deg. C.
52700 ohms @ -22 deg. F. or -30 deg. C.
100700 ohms @ -40 deg. F. or - 40 deg. C.
 

RecklessWOT

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Check the resistance across the sensor. Code 15 is for excessively cold temp reading... which basically means either the sensor is bad or a wire is disconnected. The higher the resistance the colder the temp. So a short will make it think it is very hot and an open will read as very cold. The colder the reading the more fuel it dumps in.... so that is likely the issue. I stole these values from another forum, but here you go for readings at the CTS itself. Don't mistake it for the gauge sender.

15 - Coolant Sensor Circuit - Excessive Low temperature indicated


To test the coolant sensor, unplug the wire connector and test the resistance across the two terminals of the SENSOR with an ohm meter.

The sensor screws into the intake manifold, on the front passenger side, by the thermostat housing.

Coolant sensor approximate resistance specifications:
177 ohms @ 212 deg. F. or 100 deg. C.
241 ohms @ 194 deg. F. or 90 deg. C.
332 ohms @ 176 deg. F. or 80 deg. C.
467 ohms @ 158 deg. F. or 70 deg. C.
667 ohms @ 140 deg. F. or 60 deg. C.
973 ohms @ 122 deg. F. or 50 deg. C.
1188 ohms @ 113 deg. F. or45 deg. C.
1459 ohms @ 104 deg. F. or 40 deg. C.
1802 ohms @ 95 deg. F. or 35 deg. C.
2238 ohms @ 86 deg. F. or 30 deg. C.
2796 ohms @ 77 deg. F. or 25 deg. C.
3520 ohms @ 68 deg. F. or 20 deg. C.
4450 ohms @ 59 deg. F. or 15 deg. C.
5670 ohms @ 50 deg. F. or 10 deg. C.
7280 ohms @ 41 deg. F. or 5 deg. C.
9420 ohms @ 32 deg. F. or 0 deg. C.
12300 ohms @ 23 deg. F. or -5 deg. C.
16180 ohms @ 14 deg. F. or -10 deg. C.
21450 ohms @ 5 deg. F. or -15 deg. C.
28680 ohms @ -4 deg. F. or -20 deg. C.
52700 ohms @ -22 deg. F. or -30 deg. C.
100700 ohms @ -40 deg. F. or - 40 deg. C.

Awesome, this is even better than any response I was expecting lol

Thanks
 

Bextreme04

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Awesome, this is even better than any response I was expecting lol

Thanks
Also, the post I stole from the other forum ended up not being a bad sensor, but when the guy went to test it he found the connector was cracked and had allowed his contacts to corrode to the point of being an open circuit. I would start by unplugging and testing the sensor for resistance that matches the values I posted for the current ambient air temp. If that reading comes back good, then check the connector and wiring all the way back to the ECU. The failure mode as described by you and the way that everything is wired makes it seem to me like it's going to either be the sensor, the connector at the sensor, or maybe a wiring harness rubbing/melting somewhere in that order of probability from most likely to least likely.
 

RecklessWOT

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Also, the post I stole from the other forum ended up not being a bad sensor, but when the guy went to test it he found the connector was cracked and had allowed his contacts to corrode to the point of being an open circuit. I would start by unplugging and testing the sensor for resistance that matches the values I posted for the current ambient air temp. If that reading comes back good, then check the connector and wiring all the way back to the ECU. The failure mode as described by you and the way that everything is wired makes it seem to me like it's going to either be the sensor, the connector at the sensor, or maybe a wiring harness rubbing/melting somewhere in that order of probability from most likely to least likely.
Honestly I think I'm gonna check the wiring first. I have a BIG problem with mice here. Hell, as I type this I'm taking a break from fixing my snowblower that worked fine less than a week ago and all of a sudden has no spark. Took the covers off and the whole case was stuffed to the brim with insulation and mouse turds. My daily was parked in the garage for a few months while it was off the road for repairs, in that time they chewed off two of the wheel speed sensors and filled my blower motor up with insulation. They made a mouse nest so big under the cooling case of my tractor that it overheated and threw a rod through the block over the summer. Within the last few months I have had 5 or 6 different things in my garage rendered inoperable by mice (that I know of, I hope the bikes are okay in the spring). And the 'burb is parked outside not 3 feet from the edge of the woods...
 

Bextreme04

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Honestly I think I'm gonna check the wiring first. I have a BIG problem with mice here. Hell, as I type this I'm taking a break from fixing my snowblower that worked fine less than a week ago and all of a sudden has no spark. Took the covers off and the whole case was stuffed to the brim with insulation and mouse turds. My daily was parked in the garage for a few months while it was off the road for repairs, in that time they chewed off two of the wheel speed sensors and filled my blower motor up with insulation. They made a mouse nest so big under the cooling case of my tractor that it overheated and threw a rod through the block over the summer. Within the last few months I have had 5 or 6 different things in my garage rendered inoperable by mice (that I know of, I hope the bikes are okay in the spring). And the 'burb is parked outside not 3 feet from the edge of the woods...

Mice have a bad habit of making open circuits in wiring. You need to get a few barn cats, my house cat usually gets 3-4 a day around here.
 

RecklessWOT

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Mice have a bad habit of making open circuits in wiring. You need to get a few barn cats, my house cat usually gets 3-4 a day around here.
That's the plan, we're gonna get a cat or two when we get around to it. But they're gonna have to be maine coons or something big and tough because we have 3 dogs. As of now I have a slew of really cool mouse traps in the garage that seem to be helping, but nothing that'll do work outside. Luckily once in a while I see a cat from the neighborhood hanging out in the driveway hiding under the trucks, so maybe he's doing a little something
 

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