What is the best oil to run in 1984 C10 with high-milage stock 305?

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RecklessWOT

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You sure about that? I think rotella is detergent. And high in it. It would need this to keep all those soot particles in suspension otherwise it would turn to thick sludge in the engine. Soot is what turns diesel oil black.
I am pretty sure. RotellaiT 15w40 was always touted as non detergent. It is diesel oil and wet clutch compliant, I was always told the detergents are what ****** up clutches. AFAIK no diesel oil is heavy on detergent, that's the nature of a dirty-ass diesel engine, probably part of why everything is so black



EDIT: hah so upon reading the link below it looks like they do have more detergents in them? My mind is blown. Hey you learn something new every day. I still definitely don't think it's necessary on a stock small block either way.
 
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Snoots

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I use Castrol 10-40 for High-Mileage engines and change oil and filter every 3000 miles.

No problems for 498,000 miles. Another with 278,000 miles and another for 458,000 miles.

I've spent more on oil and filters than I did for the vehicles.
 

KRBishop

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I use Castrol 10-40 for High-Mileage engines and change oil and filter every 3000 miles.

No problems for 498,000 miles. Another with 278,000 miles and another for 458,000 miles.

I've spent more on oil and filters than I did for the vehicles.

That's awesome!
 

80BrownK10

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I am pretty sure. RotellaiT 15w40 was always touted as non detergent. It is diesel oil and wet clutch compliant, I was always told the detergents are what ****** up clutches. AFAIK no diesel oil is heavy on detergent, that's the nature of a dirty-ass diesel engine, probably part of why everything is so black



EDIT: hah so upon reading the link below it looks like they do have more detergents in them? My mind is blown. Hey you learn something new every day. I still definitely don't think it's necessary on a stock small block either way.
I know your right about them being wet clutch compatible cause I seek them out as a readily available cheap oil for my 4 wheelers.
 

80BrownK10

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I use Castrol 10-40 for High-Mileage engines and change oil and filter every 3000 miles.

No problems for 498,000 miles. Another with 278,000 miles and another for 458,000 miles.

I've spent more on oil and filters than I did for the vehicles.
I'm a firm believer in changing oil and filters. I sold a ranger last year that had 308,000 miles on the original motor. Ran like a sewing machine and just burned a little I mean little oil. I changed it every 3 to 4 k. Pretty much the cheapest oil change sale oil I could buy or Walmart super tech the whole time I had it. Ran 10w30 at first and then ran 5w30 most of the life I had it. I got it around 150k. I dogged on it as a college student, ran it hard. Worked and towed with it hard.
 

Matt69olds

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If it’s a stock, unmodified engine, probably any quality oil would be fine. After almost 40 years, the cam and lifters have long established a wear pattern, the valve springs are old and weak, abd it’s a pretty lame camshaft. The zinc content is important to modern aggressive camshafts or cam break in.

The diesel oils have a higher zinc content than regular oil, but still lower than the older oil formula. Valvoline racing oils have zinc content compatible with aftermarket camshafts.

Use whatever oil weights specified in the owners manual. You can’t go wrong with a good 10w30 or 10w40
 

RecklessWOT

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I know your right about them being wet clutch compatible cause I seek them out as a readily available cheap oil for my 4 wheelers.
Yeah I can't say anything about detergents I guess, but yeah I am 100% sure it is wet clutch compatible, that's all I run in any of my my toys, from dirt bikes and ATVs to high performance crotch missiles.
 

oldretiredafguy

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This article doesn't address the need of diesel engines have for zinc in the oil. Nor does it address the older CH-4, CI-4 and CI-4+ oils that are used in pre-2007 Diesel motors. Since most of us keep our old iron (except for the LS crowd), the correct oil is important for the early life of the engine. IMHO, after 100,000 or so miles, the noun Gas or Diesel oil doesn't make a difference, just that it's new oil that is changed on a regular interval.
I own and drive two older ('98 & '02) Dodge Cummins equipped 3/4 T ranch trucks, plus a 2006 JD Tractor. You can bet your bottom dollar that these older engines of mine get the correct zinc infused Diesel oil. My old American iron gassers always get the OEM specified oil for Gas motors. Why kick the sleeping bear?
 

Grit dog

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I run 5-40 or 15-40 in basically every 4 stroke engine I have. From dirt bike to mowers to Chevy 350/454, new dodge SRT and the diesel truck.
Syn if I go longer on oci dino if not.
And the bikes always get rotella t6 because it’s wet clutch rated.
 

Octane

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This article doesn't address the need of diesel engines have for zinc in the oil. Nor does it address the older CH-4, CI-4 and CI-4+ oils that are used in pre-2007 Diesel motors. Since most of us keep our old iron (except for the LS crowd), the correct oil is important for the early life of the engine. IMHO, after 100,000 or so miles, the noun Gas or Diesel oil doesn't make a difference, just that it's new oil that is changed on a regular interval.
I own and drive two older ('98 & '02) Dodge Cummins equipped 3/4 T ranch trucks, plus a 2006 JD Tractor. You can bet your bottom dollar that these older engines of mine get the correct zinc infused Diesel oil. My old American iron gassers always get the OEM specified oil for Gas motors. Why kick the sleeping bear?
My company has about 30+ road tractors.Some of which are pre 2007 trucks,have anywhere between 650k to 1.5 million miles on original engines.We've ran Chevron delo 400 in them all.My personal truck is a 2000 Volvo with 1.4 million miles on it. Apparently the oil has done a good job,as these trucks are more city trucks than anything.I dont know how much zinc etc is in this oil tho_Our newer trucks use the same oil.Of course we buy 55 gallon drums of the oil to keep on hand.
 

rt66paul

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You could run olive oil or even Wesson oil, as long as it is clean. Yes, modern oils do have better characteristics, but I would leave what you have in there for a few thousand miles and then change the filter and use straight 30 wt(or 10-30) for the summer.
It isn't rocket surgery.
 

Red 87

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Been running this in our '87 since we've owned it (the last 17 years now).

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Savageftr

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For your flat tappet cam you need zinc in the oil.

I'm using conventional 10w30 (nothing special) then I add a zinc additive. I'm using 1/2 a bottle of Lucas Oil TB ZINC-PLUS per oil change. Half a bottle is what they recommend and that gets your zinc level way higher than any of the diesel or hot rod oils for way less money. about 3000 ppm zinc

https://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives/engine-break-in-oil-additive-tb-zinc-plus check out the zinc values pdf near the bottom
 

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