Discussion in 'Garage' started by Old77, Jul 11, 2012.
So you'll just put a 1350 yoke on the 12 bolt? What are the odds you'll actually get traction?!?!?!
Yes, i can pickup a 1350 yoke for 100-150$ with straps.
As far as traction, i need some meaty tires.
take the front end off so you don't have shit in the way. I think I had fenders, bumpers and all off in about 2 hours. Makes life so much easier dropping it in. Then you can clean up/paint your frame.
Just a thought.
Yep! Had planned on doing it just like that
Maybe im a bit behind on updates regarding your....
But with the theme you already have of just kinda patching it up to work (ive done it too many times), why not just spend a day re-ringing it?
Awesome, you'll love it when it comes to wiring. Another tip, put a positive and negative block on the firewall for any power you need. Get a battery that has both top and side posts. Have the truck run on one set, then the "swap" run on the other on the blocks at the firewall. Probably looking at $80 in cables and blocks, but you've got an easy to reach ground for those you missed/or needed, and a positive as well.
After doing the harness myself, I found out quickly that I had 4-6 ground wires that weren't connected.
Again, Just a thought.
I recently got a job at my local Maaco, and now I might be buying another square.
This is what it looked like about 15 years ago.
This is what it looks like now
It's more bondo than truck.
Though it's got a few things going for it like 114k actual miles, an aftermarket A/C system that works, and a motor that runs like brand new.
I still don't know, on one hand I've been wanting a square Burb for a while now, but I'm not one for lowered trucks, so I'd have to bring it back to stock.
Well, most of the oil loss if from the oil leak the oil pan as well as the rear main (I wish they made 1 piece oil pan gaskets for I6's. Replaced both the rear main and oil pan gasket like 4 months ago, and it lasted like a week before it took out the rear main).
Oh... you said consumption
Yea before the leak it would only burn like 1 quart a week.
Took out the rear main? How did that happen? Did you wet the rear main seal with oil before rolling it in the slot between the crank and block? Were you careful to not let the block tear the seal as you rolled it in? A rear main should last for decades, not days. Did you add some black or grey silicone where where the pan gaskets meet the front and rear gaskets at the edges? Not a ton of silicone, but a dollop to seal any imperfections or gaps at the separate gasket surfaces?
Probably has a ring worn in the crank and needed to use an offset gasket or sleeve to keep it from blowing back out again. Re-installing a standard rear main seal on a worn crank will just blow right back out again.
True. Didn't think of that.
I actually enjoy wiring. Was thinking of grabbing a donor harness and removing a large enough section to splice in so I can have enough extra room to mount all the ecu/computer stuff under the dash instead of in the engine bay
I installed it properly, it just started leaking again
This should explain why the seal went out. The rear main bearing looked just as bad, so I should have gotten one of those offset high mileage seals to compensate for the wear.
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