What have you done to your square lately??

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78C10BigTen

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I've had the 8 Ball since '86-'87 and I drilled the hole to fit the B&M or Hurst floor shifter for the TH400 in my '56. It was loose on that shifter, but just rotated, it wasn't sloppy. When I parked the '56 in '91 I put the 8 Ball in Mean Green but the hole is too big, and the 8 Ball flopped around on the shifter. It was always loose, and no amount of tape or anything would keep it snug. Back then I was pretty rough on the old truck, with bumps and jumps, and carrying on. One night the 8 Ball popped off the shifter, and it was never allowed to be used again. But I like it, and want to use it again, only thing is I want to be able to screw it down. That said, I was eating lunch just now and thinking about this, and realized there is a Budget Bolt a couple miles away, and they may have the insert I'm looking for. If they do I can epoxy the insert into the 8 Ball, get a thin nut to lock it in place on the shifter, and that would hold it. I just need them to carry the insert I need, and they should, they a wide assortment of various types of fasteners. So I'll take the shifter out of the transmission, and take the 8 Ball along with me, and see what they have. Worse come to worse, I could use one of my 1/4 inch chisels and make the hole a hex, and glue in a fine-threaded nut. Either way that 8 Ball is being used again, and I think I have figured out my solution to do it. Or I can acquire another 8 Ball and start with a smaller hole. Options.
Couldnt you drill a small hole near the bottom of the ball and thread in a set screw?
 

DoubleDingo

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Couldnt you drill a small hole near the bottom of the ball and thread in a set screw?

No the hole is too big. With it going on a 4 speed it'll see lots of action so it needs to be snug. Kinda like a gal, when you're getting some action you don't want it all sloppy and loose, you want it snug and tight.
 

Mr Clean

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Has anyone ever fitted an 8 Ball to a shifter? If so, where did you get the threaded insert? I need to source a fine thread insert to fit the 8 Ball I have a shifter knob.
B&M, Hurst, Summit all sell the shifter insert.
 

DoubleDingo

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Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
B&M, Hurst, Summit all sell the shifter insert.

Unfortunately this is now going on a stock sm420 shifter rod, or whatever it's called.

Hold on, let me go pull it, will be right back

Edit: I just reread it, I'll check out those vendors if the local Budget Bolt doesn't have it. Thanks @Mr Clean

I just checked it out, so for sure if I can't get it here, I can get it from one of them.
 
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DoubleDingo

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Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
This is what I got...

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It's drilled about 3/4 of the way through
 

fmxr47

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debating on whether this axle is worth rebuilding or not for the cost of another used one in better shape, I’d like to disc swap it but it also needs the gears replaced as there is some pretty serious pitting from sitting for so long and there was about a cup of water in side when I cracked it open a while ago. The brake drum took a lot of effort to remove with a pulled and sledge hammer. Other side I’m sure will be difficult also.

Is it safe to assume these are 4.11 gears by the numbers on it? My truck is 4.10


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legopnuematic

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debating on whether this axle is worth rebuilding or not for the cost of another used one in better shape, I’d like to disc swap it but it also needs the gears replaced as there is some pretty serious pitting from sitting for so long and there was about a cup of water in side when I cracked it open a while ago. The brake drum took a lot of effort to remove with a pulled and sledge hammer. Other side I’m sure will be difficult also.

Is it safe to assume these are 4.11 gears by the numbers on it? My truck is 4.10


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11-41 3.73 ratio
 

bigcountry78

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Attempted to find out what is popping up front when I turn, and what makes the transmission feel like it slides to the drivers side occasionally when I take off from a stop sign. Checked the cross member bolts, transmission mounts and body mounts. Everything was right except for the two core support mounts. Of course to get to them I ended up removing the grill and the bumper. Plugged my second horn back in since I had the grill out as the wire had fallen off. Then I went ahead and put another coat of paint on the bumper. I had a couple rust spots from rick chips and my push bar scratching it. I need to make up some rubber pieces to go between the bumper and the bar.
Still can’t quite pinpoint what’s going on with my transmission.
 

Shorty81

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Check your motor mounts. I had some old rubber mounts that went bad and the engine would shift with torque. It felt like the transmission.
 

bigcountry78

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Check your motor mounts. I had some old rubber mounts that went bad and the engine would shift with torque. It felt like the transmission.
Mine are only a couple years old, but I will check them just to be sure
 

legopnuematic

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225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
Put the belt back on for the a/c compressor on my 76, never got around to doing that when I put the engine back in in January. A/C still works so that's good.
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78C10BigTen

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Put the belt back on for the a/c compressor on my 76, never got around to doing that when I put the engine back in in January. A/C still works so that's good.
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Any idea what charge these old factory systems use? Im debating puting my ac back on
 

legopnuematic

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Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
Any idea what charge these old factory systems use? Im debating puting my ac back on

Really don't have a clue, when the PO had the engine replaced in 2007(?) he had it updated to 134-A and recharged. A/C systems are somewhat foreign to me, I don't mess with them if I don't have too lol
 

73c20jim

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Posting my updates in my build thread again.

See sig for link.
 

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