Water-logged 350

[Stroked]

Took the pan off and knocked all the pistons out.

I had a dumb-ass moment and boogered up the crank. Couldn't get the motor to turn over much and couldn't quite get the piston out. Finally got it to turn and wedged the rod bolt into the crank. Screwed up the threads on the rod bolt too.

Go ahead and make fun. This is my first motor teardown without someone helping me so I was bound to screw it up somewhere.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[crazy4offroad]

Aww man I wished you woulda said something. You NEED to mark your main caps, number them with a centerpunch, on ONE side of the cap & block so you dont get them flipped and in the wrong order. If you didn't mark them the block and caps are gonna need align-honed.

 

[Stroked]

Aww man I wished you woulda said something. You NEED to mark your main caps, number them with a centerpunch, on ONE side of the cap & block so you dont get them flipped and in the wrong order. If you didn't mark them the block and caps are gonna need align-honed.

No worries, they were already marked.

 

[Guardian]

The bearing don't look bad at all, just like it was assembled in a dirty environment. THe nick on the crank journal can be repaired, no big deal. The repair and micropolish should cost about 80. The rock arm off center could be several things, but it was not loose or the wear pattern would have been more scattered. It does appear bent but it may be the angle. If the valve were bent it wouldn't be an issue since you said you were going with a set of vortecs. If the block can be cleaned up and the crank polished I would say build it.

 

[Stroked]

The bearing don't look bad at all, just like it was assembled in a dirty environment. THe nick on the crank journal can be repaired, no big deal. The repair and micropolish should cost about 80. The rock arm off center could be several things, but it was not loose or the wear pattern would have been more scattered.

Well thanks, that makes me feel better.

 

[Irishman999]

I have assembled a few engines before and know the basics but I highly suggest getting this book:

http://www.jegs.com/p/S-A-Designs/S...e-Small-Block-Chevy-Videobook/758109/10002/-1

We are about at the same point on our engines, I have been reading this book in my free time to catch up on everything. Alot of it is stuff most of us would know anyway but in between that is little tid bits of info that will help you out alot.

 

[Stroked]

I have assembled a few engines before and know the basics but I highly suggest getting this book:

http://www.jegs.com/p/S-A-Designs/S...e-Small-Block-Chevy-Videobook/758109/10002/-1

We are about at the same point on our engines, I have been reading this book in my free time to catch up on everything. Alot of it is stuff most of us would know anyway but in between that is little tid bits of info that will help you out alot.

http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Your-Small-Block-Chevy/dp/1557880298/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344205364&sr=8-1&keywords=how+to+rebuild+the+small+block+chevy

I got one by David Vizard. I just got it though so I haven't got too far in it yet.

 

[Irishman999]

http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Your-Small-Block-Chevy/dp/1557880298/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344205364&sr=8-1&keywords=how+to+rebuild+the+small+block+chevy

I got one by David Vizard. I just got it though so I haven't got too far in it yet.

Jims86 and I were just talking about Vizard the Wizard in my build thread. Sounds like you are on top of **** and headed in the right direction. Having stuff fresh in your mind like rubber hose on connecting rod caps while tearing down is the beauty of these books.

 

[Stroked]

Jims86 and I were just talking about Vizard the Wizard in my build thread. Sounds like you are on top of **** and headed in the right direction. Having stuff fresh in your mind like rubber hose on connecting rod caps while tearing down is the beauty of these books.

Yep. I actually remembered to put rubber hoses on. Lol. Turns out bolt threads will cut right through rubber hose.

It's gonna be friggin hot again for a while so I'm gonna do some hard core reading over the next couple days.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

 

[Guardian]

I used rubber hose for a long time, but after a couple of times of having the same thing happen to me I bought the aluminum guides for the rod bolts.

 

[HotRodPC]

I'm thinking that block and crank are still useable. The heads look to be a junky smogger low performance model anyway, so no loss there. Is that a standard bore block? 4 bolt main? What is the block cast # on it at the left rear? You might want to go ahead and build it.

 

[Stroked]

I'm thinking that block and crank are still useable. The heads look to be a junky smogger low performance model anyway, so no loss there. Is that a standard bore block? 4 bolt main? What is the block cast # on it at the left rear? You might want to go ahead and build it.

I'll have to get the block casting # when I get home. I looked it up a while back and as far as I could tell it's an '86. 2 bolt mains and it's already .030 over.

The heads were I think suppose to be halfway decent. Something about not good for high RPM's but good for low end torque. I don't plan to rev it very high anyway. I'll get the head # later too. Hopefully over lunch.

I'm not looking to build a high performance motor. Just something mostly stock for a DD. But, I also want to do it right the first time.

Thoughts?

 

[HotRodPC]

It sounds to me like you're just looking for a low budget deal, and maybe some practice on your first motor build? If that's the case, you might try honing the rust out of the cylinders. Most of that looked like it would knock right off, and it's not pitting. If so, go for a rering job. But, you'll need a good ball hone job to get them to seat. Just go with good ole iron rings. Nothing like Molly or hi performance, those are harder to get to seat.

You're other option, if you're going to pay for machine work, find another block. Find one that is standard, and have it bored .030 over, then you can use those pistons in it and be like new. Pistons normally don't wear much, it's the rings that wear. So for the price of buying new .040 or .060 over pistons, buy you another core motor instead. Maybe even a 4 bolt, and maybe even better heads, but that crank looks be useable too with as said, a polishing.

 

[Stroked]

It sounds to me like you're just looking for a low budget deal, and maybe some practice on your first motor build?

Exactly what I'm shooting for. I don't want to go all out on my first build.

I don't feel comfortable reusing those pistons as I had to smack a couple of them pretty hard to get them out. I guess I'll price some things and maybe look for another motor.

 

[crazy4offroad]

I would take it to the machine shop, have it hot tanked and magnafluxed, have the decks checked, crank polished, then have cam bearings installed. Shouldn't be more than $100-$150. Then you can start getting parts. Start like last week hunting for a pair of Vortec heads, should be able to get them for around $300 or less just be sure to look them over real good, especially for broken exhaust bolts, and cracks between the valves. You'll need an intake to adapt to the L31 heads too, just steady as she goes gathering parts. Most of your expense will be in new pistons/rings.

If you haven't already, you may want to invest in a good caliper micrometer, snap gauges, dial indicator & base, feeler gauges, piston ring compressor, and camshaft installation tool (I made one by welding a piece of pipe to an old timing gear). You'll want to have a good torque wrench too, valve spring compressor, as well as the ball hone. A set of taps & dies is another nice thing to have handy to clean up threads for truer torque readings.