Wanders All Over the Road

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1987 GMC Jimmy

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I couldn’t see anything at the frame, and the steering box doesn’t move. Everything was perfect in there. I don’t know if it’s possible for the metal there to be fatigued, flexing and on the verge of cracking, and that can cause issues. Also, the temp at the hubcap is about 140 after a short drive. I’ll check it when I get back home. I couldn’t find my temp gun before, and it was sitting right by the truck.

I’m out in it right now. I checked everything with someone moving the steering wheel, and I was concerned about a pivoting type motion where the drag link meets the Pitman arm, but it was almost indiscernible. I brought it to the alignment place about a half hour away, and driving down the interstate over 65 the wander goes away completely. Tracks very nicely, excellent steering response. The steering wheel is noticeably off kilter at lower speeds when I’m having issues, but it’s perfectly centered doing 70+. It’s weird that 75-80 feels safer than 55-60. It comes back as I slow down, but it’s not like I’m about to crash or anything.
 

dvdswan

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Curious, have you check the rear suspension? U-bolts, bushings?

If everything looks good on the front, I would start to look at similar items; what I mean is are both tie-rod ends the same look? Maybe PO was given the wrong TRE and installed it.
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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Curious, have you check the rear suspension? U-bolts, bushings?

If everything looks good on the front, I would start to look at similar items; what I mean is are both tie-rod ends the same look? Maybe PO was given the wrong TRE and installed it.

Aside from visual and checking the torque on the nuts I could reach from underneath, I haven’t. I was planning to torque the rear u bolts at the same time as when I went through the rear brakes. That would have been after I got it running properly and steering properly. I think this issue has always been there, but the steering stabilizer made it more apparent to me. My paranoia about the steering box is gonna make me have to check and see if there’s any flex when I put my hand on the frame. Or put one hand on the box and one on the frame to make sure I’m not missing anything.
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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Driver side tie rod end has got some slack in it. We’ll see if that helps it enough to make a difference. I couldn’t see it the many times I checked for play, but I didn’t have anyone to move the steering wheel for me when I had it up in the air.
 

75Monza

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Wouldn't it be better to see slop with someone turning it for you while suspension is loaded on the ground? I did that on my 86 with it not running having buddy bump steering wheel left/right while looking at everything then again with it running before I found all my issues. Didn't find all my problems with the suspension unloaded, maybe wasn't enough resistance to show slop maybe.
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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Wouldn't it be better to see slop with someone turning it for you while suspension is loaded on the ground? I did that on my 86 with it not running having buddy bump steering wheel left/right while looking at everything then again with it running before I found all my issues. Didn't find all my problems with the suspension unloaded, maybe wasn't enough resistance to show slop maybe.

I’ve done both. I prefer to have it loaded, as well, but everything’s easier to move by hand with it up in the air. At least it was before the steering stabilizer. Can’t do that now.
 

wingman50

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1. Remove the steering box and check for cracks in the frame.
2. Check the torque on the front axle bolts.
3. If you don't have a front axle, go to #1.
Agree with Snoots. Check the frame where the steering box bolts to the frame. My steering box pulled away from the frame and left a 3” hole that I had to weld up and redrill mounting holes. My truck is from CA and is not rusty. From reading posts in this forum it is common for the box to pull away from the frame and the symptoms are what you are describing
 

4WDKC

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did you check bushings for leaf springs/control arms? Did you check to see if movement in the shackles of the front springs was the same? Does the hydraulic assist have an adjustment for center? i know when the ones for the corvettes are off the wheel will turn by itself when you start the engine, rumor is if you reach through the steering wheel it can break your arm.
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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So good news and bad news. The tie rod end helped considerably. I wouldn’t go as far to say it’s handling exactly like it should, but it’s close, and I bet proper camber/caster would bring the straight line handling home.

There wasn’t that much play in it, and I feel stupid for not being able to see it, but everything’s a lot better. I’ve got a mom who goes to work at seven a.m. and wanders back in at 9:30 p.m. on average, sits in front of the television for a while, and goes to bed. And I’ve got a brother who blows in here at one a.m. and sleeps in till noon and leaves to do whatever he does. That’s my help to turn a grab a tire and shake it/shake the steering wheel right there.

I’m still going to check for what we talked about with the Saginaw box. I’m curious to see if that metal’s fatigued.

I took it to be aligned, and they were just gonna go ahead and set up my camber sleeves for me. Unfortunately, they couldn’t extract what was already in there, and they told me they’d have to take everything apart down to the spindle to attack it that way. I brought it back home, and my plan is to get the tool and try it myself. My thing was not wanting to drive it forty miles one way with the alignment all jacked up. Didn’t sit right with me. If I do end up having to disassemble everything, I’ll replace the bearings and lower ball joints at that time. Here are my specs. I don’t understand what they’re showing for camber because it’s so off kilter from zero in the diagram, but if that was my actual camber reading, I’d be happier than a pig in ****. Also, the caster looks okay. I thought 8* was spec, and I saw something on here where cranking it up to 10* wasn’t out of the question.

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