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Vbb199

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@AuroraGirl is just posting troll posts, and you fall victim to them
Every.
Single.
Time.
@Grit dog
 

Dave M

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meanwhile back at the Engine Upgrade Ranch.........
If you are going to the trouble of upgrading heads / cam / lifters / timing set you may as well pull the engine and at least strip and inspect the bottom end, give it a freshen up as required
 

Dave M

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And meanwhile back at the Engine Upgrade Ranch.........

Michael's in a dilemma as to which way to go with with his smallblock upgrade. Enter Alec Baldwin from the upper hall?
Need to get back on track here !
 

Camar068

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Good lord folks, you've made me compare this post to posts on one of those other Richard Cranium square body/4x4 sites. Bravo to those that contributed.
 

Raider L

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@SquareRoot,

I got you to, he must have been thinking you meant something else.

Yeah, that's all it takes is that sound of those headers and down the hole you go!! AAAAIIIEEEEE!
 

MelbGMC

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I've just been through the process of installing what you are wanting to do.
I'd do it all in one go if money allows you to, I think it cost me around $2,500-$3,000 for Edelbrock heads, Crane Cam, Crane lifters, crane roller rockers, timing chain and pushrods.
It has certainly "woken" the motor up now, you can feel the difference in power and it launches off the traffic lights a lot harder.
It did take a little mucking around with carby jets and rods but it was all well worth it.
 

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Old60Driver

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Howdy y'all!! Sorry I bailed on you folks. I promise, it wasn't intentional. These crazy times we live in require me to get out and travel quite a bit these days, and access to the interwebs is danged near impossible.

So it looks like I've got a few unexpected days here at the house, so some cruising and tinkering is in order. Didn't realize I was going to be home, and as such, didn't order up heads or cam. BUT, I do have my intake here at the house, and I know that it doesn't make sense, but I'm gonna slap that on tomorrow AM, and get her all dialed in. Still haven't decided on which heads/cam I'm going with, but I have decided that when I do get around to it, I'll be pulling the engine, and giving her a good once over when I do!

In the meantime, I damned sure appreciate all y'alls help!

Oh, and I pulled all the plugs (wanting to do a compression check), so I'm gonna post them up here for y'alls opinion. I'm thinking that they look pretty decent, but I wouldn't mind a second opinion!

Thanks again!
 

Old60Driver

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So, here's a pick of the plugs (I think I attached it correctly).

Opinions?
 

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AuroraGirl

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im seeing some heat on some but Maybe not complete burn deposits on others

how is your exhaust doing, sealed? No leaks? Manifolds? How is your ignition system? Coil look ok, not original? Module? Those advance weights? How about timing overall? Maybe checked under the timing cover ever?

Hows your AFR what kind of spiritid or lax driving you do? Short or long trips?

Intake I guess maybe there is a sealing issue but at that point I would pull your valve covers and make sure things are in spec and the pushrods are doing ok and things behave right. Maybe we have a pushrod that if you rolled it on a flat surface would not roll straight or you got a valve caked with carbon or isnt sealing perfect. The fact you have some fine, some varied with extremes, makes me think its something effecting a group either by location they happen to be near or the valves to those cylinders arent behaving the way they should but not necessarily catastrophic or anything.

Edit: Im seeing a lot of electrodes varying in distance.. you could have an issue purely based on the ignition strength if those are not equal per cylinder. Maybe not only, but I would be looking at your coil, module, figure out how to use a dwell meter(Idk lol) get new plugs with equal gaps to the right distance, using a good heat range for your use. what kind of oil you use? no gas dilution to any bad amount? PCV ok?
 

Old60Driver

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im seeing some heat on some but Maybe not complete burn deposits on others

how is your exhaust doing, sealed? No leaks? Manifolds? How is your ignition system? Coil look ok, not original? Module? Those advance weights? How about timing overall? Maybe checked under the timing cover ever?

Hows your AFR what kind of spiritid or lax driving you do? Short or long trips?

Intake I guess maybe there is a sealing issue but at that point I would pull your valve covers and make sure things are in spec and the pushrods are doing ok and things behave right. Maybe we have a pushrod that if you rolled it on a flat surface would not roll straight or you got a valve caked with carbon or isnt sealing perfect. The fact you have some fine, some varied with extremes, makes me think its something effecting a group either by location they happen to be near or the valves to those cylinders arent behaving the way they should but not necessarily catastrophic or anything.

Edit: Im seeing a lot of electrodes varying in distance.. you could have an issue purely based on the ignition strength if those are not equal per cylinder. Maybe not only, but I would be looking at your coil, module, figure out how to use a dwell meter(Idk lol) get new plugs with equal gaps to the right distance, using a good heat range for your use. what kind of oil you use? no gas dilution to any bad amount? PCV ok?
Thanks for the reply. I'll do my best to answer:

When these plugs were installed, I had a pretty significant exhaust manifold leak that was fixed (headers) about 100 miles ago. Additionally, I lost an ignition module literally the same day I installed the headers, so there might be something showing on the plugs from that fun little experience on the side of the highway. She seems to like the timing at about 11 degrees, and I'm all in at about 2500.

Not sure of the actual AFR numbers (been tempted to get a gauge, but haven't yet), but I tuned her with vacuum prior to the header install. I'm definitely going to be dialing that in again after I get the new intake put in. And she's a short trip kind of truck. Just cruising around on the weekends, with some spirited stabs at the go faster pedal.

I'll be pulling the valve covers this morning and checking rods and lash. I'm thinking that the valve guide seals may be trying to give up the ghost on me. They're 38 years old, so while I'm in there, I'm thinking of going ahead and replacing seals. I'm getting little puffs of what looks like white smoke (possible condensation) when she first fires up, but settles down after a minute or two. It doesn't look like a head gasket, (I've worked on a few blown gaskets), and it doesn't look like that. Thoughts?

I'll be going back in with new plugs today. If I recall correctly, I was having an issue with a cylinder or two not firing when I resurrected her, and was swapping plugs to see if that made a difference. It didn't but I was at wits end. Once I figured out what the issue(s) were, I guess I forgot to change the two plugs back. lol Standard dino/diesel oil, and no gas smell or taste. PCV!! Damnit, I bought one when I brought her back, but never installed one. She's probably running on a oldy. I'll check that this morning as well, and put a new one in upon reassembly.

I'll let y'all know how it goes this morning, and try to upload pics along the way as I do.

Thanks again!
 

Old60Driver

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Also, quick question for those that use RTV on the china rails as opposed to gaskets. How long do y'all let the engine sit after installing the intake before firing her up again? Y'all wait the full 24 hours before fluids and startup?
 

AuroraGirl

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Also, quick question for those that use RTV on the china rails as opposed to gaskets. How long do y'all let the engine sit after installing the intake before firing her up again? Y'all wait the full 24 hours before fluids and startup?
I waited about 30 hours in total but I more or less had some dumb but funny issues not allowing it to start Lol.I guess It still had fuel going through but It didnt seem to be an issue. I only have leaks on the manifold from the coolant jacket on a pocket by the bolts because I have like 3 missing bolts. It loses a TINY bit of coolant In a lot of running and it was my first intake ever and I was really exhausted and it was HOT in my shed so I really felt it was good enough for me lol. I would wait 30 hours because of the part of the year it is if its cooler at all. also, dont over goober up the rtv
you might try some top end engine cleaner from seafoam or goodwrench or etc Basically it coats the intake and I guess some exhaust if it doesnt combust completely . That soak Is done a special way while running then turning off and letting sit, then turning on and going again usually. If you see some carbon chunks come out your pipe or lots of oily splatter, you could be looking at seals or just some age and poor running from the past.

Unfortunately short trips would tend to foul your heat range of plug...hmm.. I think. What number were those? If you have the standard replacement... a.. hotter..? Plug would help with short trip driving behavior. But someone double check that I can never remember which heat range direction does what.
With your white smoke thing, if its not a condensation cloud like you could feel be slimy on your hand, I wouldnt think coolant. Go stand there and put your hand out and "catch" some
if its water wet. you should be fine, esp if your exhaust has a low point i would think
If its slimy, like coolant prob would be, you may have a slight leak but its when turned offf so maybe look at your cap for pressure problems. blocked expansion line. etc.
 

DoubleDingo

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Whatever the instructions say on the tube. And don't use blue, use gray or black. And let it set up some before installing the intake.
 

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