Upgrade order

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Old60Driver

1983 K20 Silverado
Joined
May 17, 2020
Posts
209
Reaction score
221
Location
Houston
First Name
Michael
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20 Silverado
Engine Size
350
Finally got some time to tinker these last few days. Wife worked on restoring the dash while I de-smogged and added headers. Also put in a new headliner!

So with the headers installed, she seems to have a touch more grunt, but I always knew that I wanted to do a bit more for her. I'm thinking an RV cam and heads to go along with a new intake and existing (rebuild) Q-jet. I don't want a high RPM screamer by any means, just something that I can have fun with every once in a while off the light. As such, I'm not looking at a full rebuild or an LS swap or anything.

That being said, should I just do it all at once? I worry that if I put it ALL in (intake, heads and cam) that I may have to futz with her to get her running smoothly, and I'd rather not have to do that while I'm trying to break in a new cam/lifters.

Should I do it in steps, and get her running in-between each step? That seems like a pain in the arse (not to mention expensive in time and gaskets). Or should I just slap it all in at once?

Thanks y'all!
 

dsteelejr

Full Access Member
Joined
May 25, 2020
Posts
160
Reaction score
126
Location
Hudson, WY
First Name
David
Truck Year
1973, 1980
Truck Model
Cheyenne super C20 camper special, Sierra K25
Engine Size
350, 454
Have you looked into Edelbrock's top end kits? They include heads, intake, cam, lifters, timing chain, all bolts and gaskets. Kit comes with everything you need except rocker arms. You can use your stock rockers or aftermarket rockers up to a 1.6 ratio. I went with Comp Cams roller rockers. Just do it all at once. You said you're not looking to make it a high RPM screamer, Edelbrock's E-Street series have flat tappet cams and are for idle to 5500 RPM. I'm building a 400 small block from a bare block for my '73 C20 and I'm using top end kit #2038, which is rated for 338 HP-389 TQ on a 350 with 9.0 compression. Kit will set you back about two grand.

The intake that comes with the kit is for a square bore carb. If you insist on running that Q-jet you'd have to adapt it or find an intake with a spread bore pattern. You can also buy each part individually instead of buying the kit. You could buy all the parts of the kit minus the intake and buy a different intake.


 

dsteelejr

Full Access Member
Joined
May 25, 2020
Posts
160
Reaction score
126
Location
Hudson, WY
First Name
David
Truck Year
1973, 1980
Truck Model
Cheyenne super C20 camper special, Sierra K25
Engine Size
350, 454
And thus another victim falls down the rabbit hole.
Really? Was it even worth the time you took out of your day to type that?

I've helped out fellow square body enthusiasts on here, giving away (not selling) hard to find parts to others on this forum to help them with their projects and then there's dealing with BS like this. The juice isn't worth the squeeze anymore.

I'm done.
 

shiftpro

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Posts
4,855
Reaction score
6,085
Location
BC Canada
First Name
shiftpro
Truck Year
73-87
Truck Model
1500, 2500, 3500
Engine Size
350, 383, 454, 496!
Finally got some time to tinker these last few days. Wife worked on restoring the dash while I de-smogged and added headers. Also put in a new headliner!

So with the headers installed, she seems to have a touch more grunt, but I always knew that I wanted to do a bit more for her. I'm thinking an RV cam and heads to go along with a new intake and existing (rebuild) Q-jet. I don't want a high RPM screamer by any means, just something that I can have fun with every once in a while off the light. As such, I'm not looking at a full rebuild or an LS swap or anything.

That being said, should I just do it all at once? I worry that if I put it ALL in (intake, heads and cam) that I may have to futz with her to get her running smoothly, and I'd rather not have to do that while I'm trying to break in a new cam/lifters.

Should I do it in steps, and get her running in-between each step? That seems like a pain in the arse (not to mention expensive in time and gaskets). Or should I just slap it all in at once?

Thanks y'all!

Do it all at once Mike... like an engine builder would do. I like to set the valves before I install the intake... I find I can see what's going on a lot better regarding getting the lifter on the heel of the cam. Tighten to zero lash and then add 1.5 - 1.75 of a turn down. New lifters... NO OIL ... no problem, just be more gentle finding zero clearance.

With your intake, whatever you end up using, toss the rubber damns for the front and rear china wall. Use The Right Stuff. I like to lay a fat bead on the china walls and let it set up. Then when your ready to install add more Right Stuff goop to the sides and top of your first bead.
 

SquareRoot

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2017
Posts
3,659
Reaction score
6,602
Location
Arizona
First Name
Mike
Truck Year
85
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Really? Was it even worth the time you took out of your day to type that?

I've helped out fellow square body enthusiasts on here, giving away (not selling) hard to find parts to others on this forum to help them with their projects and then there's dealing with BS like this. The juice isn't worth the squeeze anymore.

I'm done.
No sense of humor huh? Sorry if I offended you. Maybe take some of that "juice" and make a margarita or two.
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,422
Reaction score
4,482
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, c30 C&C, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350
I hope dsteelejr didn't think my comment was directed at his reply. The rabbit hole was in reference to the OP's conundrum. Lol
I knew what you meant. Don't know why anyone would get upset over that comment lol.
 

GTP51

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Posts
109
Reaction score
119
Location
Melbourne Australia
First Name
Geoff
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
R10 Silverado half ton Stepside
Engine Size
355
My 2 cents: To save yourself having to play multiple times, may as well do the whole top end $’s permitting and be done with it and enjoy the extra HP.
Cause we all know that it doesn’t stop once you get started on the upgrade path
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
5,883
Reaction score
9,624
Location
Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
454
@Old60Driver
You've talked a couple times about engine options and also about keeping truck original.
Presumably it runs good/acceptable now?
Personally I wouldn't drop a wheelbarrow load of new top end bolt ons and a cam on a stock 80s small block long block.
My idea would be leave stock, stock and buy or build a motor to swap in it if you want more performance.
 

AuroraGirl

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Posts
9,127
Reaction score
6,040
Location
Northern Wisconsin
First Name
Taylor
Truck Year
1978, 1980
Truck Model
K10, K25
Engine Size
400(?), 350
brembo stickers and red calipers are a very non invasive way toi make it feel faster without actually doing anything. thats not stock tho. But painted calipers are often nice when your wheels are open but that would be very stock either. So this idea isnt panning.. hmmmm
 

dvdswan

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Posts
2,366
Reaction score
2,024
Location
Port Orchard, WA
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Chrome lots of chrome.


Do the swap all at once. But if you're going to drop that much on just the top end of an engine. IMO, I'd spend a little more and just swap the whole engine and get a warranty with it.

Plus, you'd be done with the smog beast that's in there now.
 

cstew47

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2015
Posts
181
Reaction score
120
Location
colombia
First Name
craig
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K5
Engine Size
383
I hope dsteelejr didn't think my comment was directed at his reply. The rabbit hole was in reference to the OP's conundrum. Lol
Yeah, I understood your humor. We've all been there. Start adjusting the carb and wind up rebuilding the engine. It's like pulling a thread on a sweater.
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
5,883
Reaction score
9,624
Location
Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
454
brembo stickers and red calipers are a very non invasive way toi make it feel faster without actually doing anything. thats not stock tho. But painted calipers are often nice when your wheels are open but that would be very stock either. So this idea isnt panning.. hmmmm
Do you even read the subject line or question/content in a thread before responding?
If you do, then I’m really struggling to make the connection between specific engine mods the OP is contemplating and the plastic/chrome/stickers crap from the junk aisle at Vato Zone that you are suggesting here. (And not even plastic chrome engine crap, when the thread is about an engine)
 

AuroraGirl

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Posts
9,127
Reaction score
6,040
Location
Northern Wisconsin
First Name
Taylor
Truck Year
1978, 1980
Truck Model
K10, K25
Engine Size
400(?), 350
Do you even read the subject line or question/content in a thread before responding?
If you do, then I’m really struggling to make the connection between specific engine mods the OP is contemplating and the plastic/chrome/stickers crap from the junk aisle at Vato Zone that you are suggesting here. (And not even plastic chrome engine crap, when the thread is about an engine)
Did your parents have any children that lived?
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
41,859
Posts
903,669
Members
33,372
Latest member
83elcowes
Top