Transmission Fluid is pink and milky :(

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

73OLyellow

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Posts
53
Reaction score
12
Location
San Diego
First Name
Marcel
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
So I got this 73 chevy c20 cheyenne 350 and I checked the tranny fluid and its a milky pink.. the radiator coolant was a rusty mess, so I'm wondering if rust might have gotten in there too.
My real question is how do I drain. Flush. And properly add fluid and exactly what type of tranny fluid it takes

thanks!!
 

CSFJ

-----------------
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2014
Posts
6,160
Reaction score
5,162
Location
------
First Name
-------------
Truck Year
-------
Truck Model
-------
Engine Size
-------
Pink, milky fluid means water or coolant has contaminated the trans fluid. Unless the truck has been driven through deep water recently, I would suspect the radiator is leaking internally to the trans cooler lines. Do not drive it like this. It will damage the trans. If the moisture did get in through the radiator, that will need to be replaced too.
 
Last edited:

73OLyellow

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Posts
53
Reaction score
12
Location
San Diego
First Name
Marcel
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
I think the previous owner just added water in the transmission reservoir. Oh man.. I hope its not that serious. What can I check before I have to get a new transmission? :/
 

73OLyellow

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Posts
53
Reaction score
12
Location
San Diego
First Name
Marcel
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
Ugh... how much does a new tranny cost? And about how much do people charge?
 

CSFJ

-----------------
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2014
Posts
6,160
Reaction score
5,162
Location
------
First Name
-------------
Truck Year
-------
Truck Model
-------
Engine Size
-------
to have one rebuilt, it's usually cheaper to do the removal and install yourself, however they may not warranty their work that way. As long as the trans isn't slipping, I would definitely replace the fluid first, before I went full bore on a worst case situation.
 

73OLyellow

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Posts
53
Reaction score
12
Location
San Diego
First Name
Marcel
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
How do I know if its slipping? The truck kind of bolts or jerks when i switch from shifting to P R N D. Is that slipping
 

73OLyellow

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Posts
53
Reaction score
12
Location
San Diego
First Name
Marcel
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
c20
Engine Size
350
How can I replace the fluid? Or extract the old fluid?
 

CSFJ

-----------------
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2014
Posts
6,160
Reaction score
5,162
Location
------
First Name
-------------
Truck Year
-------
Truck Model
-------
Engine Size
-------
When you're in the truck, and you pull the selector into gear, you should be able to feel the trans go into gear within a second or so. Any longer would indicate a problem beginning. The easiest way to replace the fluid would be to get it to a garage that offers transmission flushes. This will replace all the fluid in the system. It can be done at home, but it's kind of a pain. you'd have to undo the line returning fluid to the trans and let it drain into something that would hold about 3 gallons of fluid, while you're pouring new fluid into the fill tube. And you'd need someone in the truck to hold their foot on the brake with the truck in gear, to activate the trans pump.
 

Dadof2

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2014
Posts
114
Reaction score
3
Location
Central Texas
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1991 , 1981
Truck Model
R1500 Chevy Sub, C20
Engine Size
350 in both trucks
Ugh... how much does a new tranny cost? And about how much do people charge?

We had the TH350 in my 1981 C20 rebuilt this past summer. It was right at 450.00. It would have been 650.00 but I pulled the transmission and took it to them.
 

350runner

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2013
Posts
2,858
Reaction score
224
Location
tx
First Name
Ceasar
Truck Year
82
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
350
Yup that's the going rate in tx :) things you need to know about flushing your trans... NEVER get a pressurised reverse flush... it washes all the stuff from the filter and clutch packs and any worn parts back where you really don't want them(though out the entire system) thus reason why the trans will fail in short order.ask me how I know... . 2.) Trans flushing can be done at home:) two long hoses clamped to the trans lines after they have been removed from the rad will go to two 5 gallon bucket. One filled with fluid the other empty. 3.) Stay away from chemical flushes the new trans fluid will suffice :)

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 
Last edited:

MadOgre

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2014
Posts
4,090
Reaction score
49
Location
NA
First Name
NA
Truck Year
NA
Truck Model
NA
Engine Size
NA
When you're in the truck, and you pull the selector into gear, you should be able to feel the trans go into gear within a second or so. Any longer would indicate a problem beginning. The easiest way to replace the fluid would be to get it to a garage that offers transmission flushes. This will replace all the fluid in the system. It can be done at home, but it's kind of a pain. you'd have to undo the line returning fluid to the trans and let it drain into something that would hold about 3 gallons of fluid, while you're pouring new fluid into the fill tube. And you'd need someone in the truck to hold their foot on the brake with the truck in gear, to activate the trans pump.

First off do it your self cause otherwise that means your gonna drive to a shop unless you have it towed.

Second there is no brake activated pump in these transmissions!

Its actually quite easy to do flush at home a helper is of great help though.

From what I can find the lower cooler line from the transmission is your Pressurized line going out from the tranny to the cooler.

So remove the top line from the radiator which is the return line to the tranny(make sure the line you remove from the rad is the top line at the transmission). attach a piece of hose onto a spare short piece of line or the appropriate fitting to install in your rad where the return to tranny line goes, and run it into a bucket(preferably white) Remove the transmission pan, install new filter, clean and reinstall the pan with new gasket and torque the transmission bolts to 13ft lbs. refill tranny with 4 qts of fluid.

Get a funnel that will fit nicely into your transmission fill tube and secure it so that it will stay with out having to hold it. I used electrical tape and wrapped it around both so it wouldn't move.

Now with the vehicle in neutral and the wheels chocked. Have another 6 qts of transmission fluid ready, its a lot easier to use 1 qt bottles.

In neutral have your assistant start the vehicle, and watch the bucket to see the transmission fluid coming out of the return line into the bucket. As the fluid is pumped into the bucket simply add the same amount into the fill tube with your 1 qt bottles. Continue to do this until the fluid coming out of the return line is clean red. Then have your helper shut off the vehicle.

Simply reinstall the cooler line and ensure that the transmission is at the correct fluid level in park while idling.

So you have filled the transmission with new fluid and filter this will be sucked up and pushed through the transmission and through the pressure line to the rad and will be pushed through the rad and out through your rigged up line into a bucket. there by pushing new fluid through pretty much the entire system of your transmission.

This is exactly what you will receive at the speedy lube shop. but a whole lot cheaper.

The trick is to keep adding fluid as the transmission is sucking it out of the pan so that it does not run dry as you are exiting the return line into a bucket instead of allowing it to return to the transmission like it normally would.

It is how ever pointless to do this until changing out your rad if your radiator is the source of the problem.
 

CSFJ

-----------------
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2014
Posts
6,160
Reaction score
5,162
Location
------
First Name
-------------
Truck Year
-------
Truck Model
-------
Engine Size
-------
First off do it your self cause otherwise that means your gonna drive to a shop unless you have it towed.

Second there is no brake activated pump in these transmissions!

Its actually quite easy to do flush at home a helper is of great help though.

From what I can find the lower cooler line from the transmission is your Pressurized line going out from the tranny to the cooler.

So remove the top line from the radiator which is the return line to the tranny(make sure the line you remove from the rad is the top line at the transmission). attach a piece of hose onto a spare short piece of line or the appropriate fitting to install in your rad where the return to tranny line goes, and run it into a bucket(preferably white) Remove the transmission pan, install new filter, clean and reinstall the pan with new gasket and torque the transmission bolts to 13ft lbs. refill tranny with 4 qts of fluid.

Get a funnel that will fit nicely into your transmission fill tube and secure it so that it will stay with out having to hold it. I used electrical tape and wrapped it around both so it wouldn't move.

Now with the vehicle in neutral and the wheels chocked. Have another 6 qts of transmission fluid ready, its a lot easier to use 1 qt bottles.

In neutral have your assistant start the vehicle, and watch the bucket to see the transmission fluid coming out of the return line into the bucket. As the fluid is pumped into the bucket simply add the same amount into the fill tube with your 1 qt bottles. Continue to do this until the fluid coming out of the return line is clean red. Then have your helper shut off the vehicle.

Simply reinstall the cooler line and ensure that the transmission is at the correct fluid level in park while idling.

So you have filled the transmission with new fluid and filter this will be sucked up and pushed through the transmission and through the pressure line to the rad and will be pushed through the rad and out through your rigged up line into a bucket. there by pushing new fluid through pretty much the entire system of your transmission.

This is exactly what you will receive at the speedy lube shop. but a whole lot cheaper.

The trick is to keep adding fluid as the transmission is sucking it out of the pan so that it does not run dry as you are exiting the return line into a bucket instead of allowing it to return to the transmission like it normally would.

It is how ever pointless to do this until changing out your rad if your radiator is the source of the problem.

That's the best explanation for it. It's been about a dozen years since I did this, I couldn't recall if the trans needed to be in gear to activate the pump (hence the person holding the brake). The only thing I would add is that it took us about 3 gallons before it started running out clean fluid.
 

MadOgre

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2014
Posts
4,090
Reaction score
49
Location
NA
First Name
NA
Truck Year
NA
Truck Model
NA
Engine Size
NA
Well I guess you could put it in drive to flush through the valve body what you can too. But you don't have to in order to make it work. Like on my new vehicle you have to hold the brake and rev it until the pressure switch will open to allow fluid to the cooler circuit. Its ridiculous that any body would design a transmission that way! But apparently GM and Ford teamed up on the design so what ever!

Also if installing a new rad I could see 350s way of doing it may be easier. But I would want to prime the supply line of new fluid some how.
 

350runner

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2013
Posts
2,858
Reaction score
224
Location
tx
First Name
Ceasar
Truck Year
82
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
350
Well I guess you could put it in drive to flush through the valve body what you can too. But you don't have to in order to make it work. Like on my new vehicle you have to hold the brake and rev it until the pressure switch will open to allow fluid to the cooler circuit. Its ridiculous that any body would design a transmission that way! But apparently GM and Ford teamed up on the design so what ever!

Also if installing a new rad I could see 350s way of doing it may be easier. But I would want to prime the supply line of new fluid some how.
They did that to act as an aid when you break. Kinda like when you throw it in neutral when driving a clutch. :)

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

MadOgre

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2014
Posts
4,090
Reaction score
49
Location
NA
First Name
NA
Truck Year
NA
Truck Model
NA
Engine Size
NA
OK that makes it even more rediculous
 

Forum statistics

Threads
42,190
Posts
910,998
Members
33,684
Latest member
rowdy_80
Top