Tranny issue on the way home 2night....

[AnimalMother]

Well heres another question... does it matter if its a short tail? i found a 1980 turbo 350 shorttail for 150 bucks out of a gladiator van...

 

[HotRodPC]

The 9in was the OE size for Squares so driveshafts will be common, but I"m thinking if you'd go with the 6in shaft, you might even need to go with a 2 piece. Nonetheless, you'd have to get a driveshaft made using the 6in tailshaft Th350.

 

[bucket]

Well heres another question... does it matter if its a short tail? i found a 1980 turbo 350 shorttail for 150 bucks out of a gladiator van...

You can't use it. To retain your stock t-case, you would need an '81-newer th350 from a 4x4.

The 9in was the OE size for Squares so driveshafts will be common, but I"m thinking if you'd go with the 6in shaft, you might even need to go with a 2 piece. Nonetheless, you'd have to get a driveshaft made using the 6in tailshaft Th350.

It's a K10.

 

[HotRodPC]

Ohhh yeah. Nope Can do !!! No Workie !!! I'm assuming you currently have a 700r4. But HAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY Yes, he can to use it. He's just have to remove the tailshaft housing, cut off the output shaft and bolt the adpater on.

 

[HotRodPC]

WTH was I thinking, just I typed to agree with bucket, I realized, yes, that's what he needs for a Th350 from 700r4 Swap.

You use a 2wd short shaft transmission. Cut the amount shown here off the output shaft. Put in the 4 studs in the transcase. Slide the spacer over the studs, then slide your Tcase over the studs. Nut it up and there you go. Now you have a Th350 the exact same length as a 700r4 so no driveshaft mods, no moving the crossmember, nothing. Same cooling lines, Same TV/Detent Cable hookup, and add a Vacuum modulator line. DONE !!!

 

[bucket]

WTH was I thinking, just I typed to agree with bucket, I realized, yes, that's what he needs for a Th350 from 700r4 Swap.

You use a 2wd short shaft transmission. Cut the amount shown here off the output shaft. Put in the 4 studs in the transcase. Slide the spacer over the studs, then slide your Tcase over the studs. Nut it up and there you go. Now you have a Th350 the exact same length as a 700r4 so no driveshaft mods, no moving the crossmember, nothing. Same cooling lines, Same TV/Detent Cable hookup, and add a Vacuum modulator line. DONE !!!

You started with a 2wd trans? I didn't remember that part. So you can then use any short tail th350 and run a common np208 behind it?

 

[HotRodPC]

You started with a 2wd trans? I didn't remember that part. So you can then use any short tail th350 and run a common np208 behind it?

YEP, you have to for the added length of the output shaft to compensate for the spacer. Here's what it looks like going in the truck. This is assuming, he's currently got a 700r4/NP208 or NP241.

 

[AnimalMother]

Just another question, could it be the tv cable causing it to not shift into 3rd and 4th? seems lke this could be a simple thing im overlooking

 

[HotRodPC]

The trans has worked proper at 1 time right? And noone has played that cable since then? If so NOT likely. I geuss it's possible the cable could have came out on a full throttle and stayed out, that might do it. But didn't you say it goes 1st 2nd and then like N ? If so, then it's 3-4 clutch pack ad not the cable.

 

[AnimalMother]

Dammit...there goes wishful thinking lol oh well off to the pick and pull

 

[Christian Nelson]

I rebuilt a 4L60E which was my first auto I ever worked on. (The guys here helped a lot with my questions) It was a success, it works, unfortunately, I still can't sell my wife's Suburban, even with a good tranny ..

But, 700R4 is practically identical to the 4L60E, minus the electronic shifting stuff.

Just saying..

The 3-4 clutch pack was what was burned in my wife's. It only took one drive of it slipping due to the fluid being low to burn the clutch pack. They "coned" which made it so the only contact point was the outside edge of the clutches. So, while they still looke pretty good in the middle, they were worn on the edge, and thus would slip.

I had a scare due to probably too much vasaline in the valve body when I put it together, and it wouldn't shift into OD, but after about 30 miles, it shifted fine.

I've now put around 1000 miles on it, changed the filter and fluid, and it seems to be going strong.

So, it isn't an impossible task.

Big upgrades that seem to be recommended is make sure you have 10 vanes on the pump, makes sure your valve body isn't leaking, get "The BEAST" reaction shell, and I went ahead with pinless servos, and upgraded band cap thingy, and Transgo plate, and ungraded pressure regulator.

I've seen fairly complete kits for around $300-ish on Ebay.

Get a video, and clean place to work, and I think you can do it. I used a harmonic balancer puller, and some bent metal for most of the special tools needed. A pair of extra hands, and two big C clamps and I was able to work on the 3-4 clutch pack..

I personally like OD, especially if you aren't running huge tires.

I like that adapter setup for the 2wd 350 for 4wd too!

 

[HotRodPC]

Did you go with the Alto Commercial 3-4 pack or the Z pack on your build Christian?

 

[Christian Nelson]

I went with the Alto Red pack. Made more sense to me. Also, the ALto seemed more marketed to trucks and hauling/towing, and the Zpack seemed more designed to please the camaro drag racing crowd. Being I had a Suburban, I figured the Alto was the way to go. Another thing that put me over the edge was the fact that I had "coning" on the 3-4 clutches, and the Alto's are supposed to be thicker, with thicker steels to avoid warping, and coning specifically.

That was the logic I used anyway.

 

[HotRodPC]

I went with the Alto Red pack. Made more sense to me. Also, the ALto seemed more marketed to trucks and hauling/towing, and the Zpack seemed more designed to please the camaro drag racing crowd. Being I had a Suburban, I figured the Alto was the way to go. Another thing that put me over the edge was the fact that I had "coning" on the 3-4 clutches, and the Alto's are supposed to be thicker, with thicker steels to avoid warping, and coning specifically.

That was the logic I used anyway.

That's the exact logic I use too. OLP likes the Z pak, I just think the Alto Commercial pack made much more sense.