The clutch is here, 4500 conversion done by New Years. You hear that @frankenchevy?

[Vbb199]

Looks like some good times fella's.
Good stuff.

 

[SquareRoot]

@Frankenchevy ,

Question for you. Wasn't you chasing a vibration issue awhile back? Did you ever figure it out?

 

[Frankenchevy]

@Frankenchevy ,

Question for you. Wasn't you chasing a vibration issue awhile back? Did you ever figure it out?

A vibration issue that only I really noticed, so maybe the vibration was between my ears?

At this point, every single moving part and bearing is brand new except the t-case. I like to solve problems by replacing EVERYTHING!

Only thing else it could be are the new American Racing wheels or the nearly new tires. I plan on getting some new 17s and either 33s or 35s. Waiting to see how it looks on the new lift though.

 

[SquareRoot]

When I bolted the rear driveshaft in today, I noticed a small amount of play in the front yoke. It's like backlash, you couldn't measure it without a dial guage but it's there. It got me thinking because I had that similar vibration you have. The t-case and driveshaft are 35 years old. The play is NOT in the uj-oints, it's in the splines of the output shaft or more likely the slip yoke.

 

[Frankenchevy]

When I bolted the rear driveshaft in today, I noticed a small amount of play in the front yoke. It's like backlash, you couldn't measure it without a dial guage but it's there. It got me thinking because I had that similar vibration you have. The t-case and driveshaft are 35 years old. The play is NOT in the uj-oints, it's in the splines of the output shaft or more likely the slip yoke.

There’s a race that I replaced in the tail housing when I did the seal. Does your slip yoke have any sort of ring worn into it?

 

[SquareRoot]

No ring. It's not the bearing cause I slipped an extra 32 spline yoke on it and there was no more play. Then I measured how much of the tail shaft is inside the yoke and it's 2.5 inches deep. I think the yoke itself wears or stretches over time causing the play.

 

[Frankenchevy]

No ring. It's not the bearing cause I slipped an extra 32 spline yoke on it and there was no more play. Then I measured how much of the tail shaft is inside the yoke and it's 2.5 inches deep. I think the yoke itself wears or stretches over time causing the play.

Yeah, gm liked to make the driveshaft short I guess. I got mine lengthened so there’s only 1 inch sticking out. Before it had 3” out and 3” or so in. To me it doesn’t make sense. You’ll never bottom out that 1” and you’ll have way more engagement.

Any driveshaft guy would look at my factory shaft and say, huh?

The rule of thumb is 5/8”-1” maybe 1-1/4”. 5/8” is getting close, but seems fine for 2wd. I figure if I ever need more than what I have now, I need to go to a long travel driveshaft with a fixed flange on a 205.

 

[SquareRoot]

I'm gonna live with it. My next and last project is to install my round pattern 205 and twinsticks in it. Not gonna spend a dime on it when it's gonna be converted to a fixed yoke and a new slip shaft.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I'm gonna live with it. My next and last project is to install my round pattern 205 and twinsticks in it. Not gonna spend a dime on it when it's gonna be converted to a fixed yoke and a new slip shaft.

That’s what I’d do too if I had a round pattern 205. That’s what I’m looking for now.

 

[SquareRoot]

@Frankenchevy
How you doing bud? I swear to almighty God I'm gonna have mine completed this weekend!

Hey, what did you do about hooking up the reverse lights to the trans? I'm looking for a weatherpack pigtail to fit that connector.

 

[Frankenchevy]

@Frankenchevy
How you doing bud? I swear to almighty God I'm gonna have mine completed this weekend!

Hey, what did you do about hooking up the reverse lights to the trans? I'm looking for a weatherpack pigtail to fit that connector.

Haven’t gotten much done in the past few days. Been slammed with work. You might just beat me to the finish line. I’m 99%, but little silly stuff. Like how I don’t have any 1/8” vacuum line laying around and I’m pretty sure that Edelbrock in their infinite wisdom and cheapness didn’t send any with their vacuum referenced fuel pressure regulator—either that, or I misplaced it. I’m also still trying to figure out a thermostat housing/upper radiator hose that’ll work for my truck. Having a 1-3/4 neck on the radiator end limits my options a bit...

I need to find that same weather pack connector. Let me know any p/n you come across if you find the right one (assuming our transmissions have the same connector).

Other than those deals, I’m ready to fire it off and see what’s what.

 

[SquareRoot]

Well....I just learned something as a result of your reply. I questioned someone else's post yesterday and you mentioned the topic of the regulator so I researched it.

First off, my system runs great. My only complaint was that it seemed to run rich at idle even when set at 14:1. The exhaust just smells bad, like a carbed' engine.

Question-Did your kit come with a fuel pressure regulator or did you have to source one? Mine did not. I did not order the "master kit." However, I'm using the remote sump that has the internal regulator. From the start I just ran the sump (53 psi out on the mech gauge) to the fuel rails. I know the factory setpoint on the sump is 58 but mines always read 53.

Now I look at the literature and it does say to connect the vacuum port on the sump to the manifold. DUH! Now that I understand how it works, it makes sense. I'm betting once I hook it up the pressure will drop down to around 42-43 at idle. This is what got my attention about the other guys post, his screenshot at idle showed #43?

That may explain my rich idle. Makes sense because I'm pulling 18 inches of vacuum since I installed the ME Wagner Adjustable PCV awhile back.

Interesting.

 

[Frankenchevy]

Well....I just learned something as a result of your reply. I questioned someone else's post yesterday and you mentioned the topic of the regulator so I researched it.

First off, my system runs great. My only complaint was that it seemed to run rich at idle even when set at 14:1. The exhaust just smells bad, like a carbed' engine.

Question-Did your kit come with a fuel pressure regulator or did you have to source one? Mine did not. I did not order the "master kit." However, I'm using the remote sump that has the internal regulator. From the start I just ran the sump (53 psi out on the mech gauge) to the fuel rails. I know the factory setpoint on the sump is 58 but mines always read 53.

Now I look at the literature and it does say to connect the vacuum port on the sump to the manifold. DUH! Now that I understand how it works, it makes sense. I'm betting once I hook it up the pressure will drop down to around 42-43 at idle. This is what got my attention about the other guys post, his screenshot at idle showed #43?

That may explain my rich idle. Makes sense because I'm pulling 18 inches of vacuum since I installed the ME Wagner Adjustable PCV awhile back.

Interesting.

At 18” of vacuum, you should have a 43psi reg and run a 43psi map according to the manual.

 

[DoubleDingo]

https://rumble.com/vc22pt-high-five-a-black-widow.html

I save them too. They are great for the garden. My wife is like @bucket and @SquareRoot and wants to kill every one on the planet.

Ummmm....lol

Those were my thoughts as well

 

[DoubleDingo]

I needed a jack for the 4500. Ended up buying this from Harbor freight. I usually hate HF, but this actually works great. Still had to jack the truck up 6 inches to get that beast underneath. Hopefully get it bolted up tommorow. Merry Christmas!

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Excellent miniature scissor lift. Stable, easy to use and maneuver.