Stock 400 small bock with bigger cam

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Patman

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the bolt holes line up ok, it took some wiggling but it seats fine. Sadly, when I was finishing up my final torque sequence, one of the intake bolts snapped. Its the one back by the oil pressure sending unit. I'll pull the intake this morning and take some pics. Its hard to get to and Im older (mid 50's) so I mayhave to pull the head to get the remainder of the bolt out. Frustrating...
 

Ricko1966

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the bolt holes line up ok, it took some wiggling but it seats fine. Sadly, when I was finishing up my final torque sequence, one of the intake bolts snapped. Its the one back by the oil pressure sending unit. I'll pull the intake this morning and take some pics. Its hard to get to and Im older (mid 50's) so I mayhave to pull the head to get the remainder of the bolt out. Frustrating...
Make sure you have the correct intake bolts for all holes,too long of bolts bottom out and break because of the torsional load on the bolts instead of a compression load on the bolt. I would 1st remove the carb from the intake and the distributor cap and see if I could get a drill,a 90 degree drill or a 90 degree attachment in there. I'd also buy a brand new small bit to drill a pilot and a brand new left hand bit the correct size,for the correct size EZ out. That's a problem with EZ outs they are not 1 size fits all you need the appropriate size for the bolt and the bolt needs to drilled deep and the size recommended for tge EZ out. They've done the math on how big the hole needs to be to reduce it structurally,and how big the hole needs to be so the EZ out seats and twists but doesn't expand the bolt making things harder. Yes left hand drill bits are a real thing they turn counter clockwise and if you are lucky while you are drilling,it will bite and unscrew the bolt.
 
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Patman

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Looks like the Lord was merciful to me yet again… I purchased a new set of intake bolts and thermostat housing bolts. I ran them through my parts cleaner after removing them this last time. I got the thermostat housing bolts mixed in with the intake bolts and didn’t realize it. That’s the one that snapped.
 

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Patman

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Ricko1966

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If you have a mig welder set a flat washer on the broken off nub and weld them together. Weld a nut to the flat washer,turn it out with wrench.
 
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Patman

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Finally back in the shop today!

Taking a few hours to let it warm up, then installing the intake gasket. Gotta clean those surfaces first though. The rubber cement I used to hold the gasket in place is a bear to get off…. It’s killin these old arthritic hands…
 

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I hope you're kidding when you say you used rubber cement. That product does not have any business being on an engine. Black or Grey silicone, or the Right Stuff, but never rubber cement
 

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no. The engine builders at our local machine shop recommended me to use it. Regardless, it’s coming off now, and won’t go back on…
 

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DoubleDingo

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no. The engine builders at our local machine shop recommended me to use it. Regardless, it’s coming off now, and won’t go back on…
Wow, that's a new one. Were they pranking you?
 

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At this point I intend to use ultra black around all the ports, on the head side, and around the intake ports on the intake side.

Torque in three rounds of 15/23/30

If yall have better advice, I’ll take it

I’ll fill up my torpedo heater and let it run till it runs out of kerosene. Should heat the block/intake up long enough to cure the RTV. It’s been pretty cold these last couple weeks

For what it’s worth, I’ve only really worked on fuel injection 4.0 jeep engines until these two trucks landed in my lap. So, I’m not a Chevy engine guy, at all.
 

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And I’ll use the ultra black on the China wall without the cork gasket.

I’m using 1205s-e gasket set.
 

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S-3
 

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