Starter problems/solutions! HELP

[JRandle]

So here's the problem and the reason I'm still unable to drive my truck!

The outside hole for the starter on my block has been drilled bigger and used to have a helicoil in it but I don't think another one will work... So here are my solutions I just need to know if it will work...

1- JB weld the hole and drill and tap it back to the stock hole size.

2- Grind the top of the ear hole and put a longer bolt and a flat washer and nut on the end.

3- I found an adapter that will bolt to a 700r4 to make a bell housing bolted starter work.. And I believe I have found a starter that will work also.

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Let me know what yall think!


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[JRandle]

@HotRodPC

This is where I'm at right now...


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[chengny]

1- JB weld the hole and drill and tap it back to the stock hole size.

I wouldn't do this. While JB Weld is fine for surface/cosmetic applications, it is not designed for structural repairs. Definitely unable to handle the huge stresses placed upon starter mounting bolts - especially the outer one. If you fill, drill and tap using JB Weld, the threads will fail - and they will fail sooner rather than later.


2- Grind the top of the ear hole and put a longer bolt and a flat washer and nut on the end.

Not a good option unless you have access to a lathe and know how to use a knurling tool. Stock starter bolts are knurled in the area of the starter housing /engine block interface. About 1/2" of the bolt shoulder is knurled. When installed correctly, about 1/4" of the knurled surface should be in the block (the bolt holes are not tapped to the surface). The other 1/4" of knurling should be within the nose cone housing:

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Knurling causes a slight increase in the OD of the bolt. This increased OD helps align the pinion gear to ring gear at installation and also maintains that alignment by preventing the starter from moving.

The implications of using either of these two methods are severe. The starter will eventually loosen up and move. When that happens, the alignment between the pinion/ring gears will be altered and the end result will be damaged ring gear teeth.


I am not familiar with that adapter you posted, so I can't comment.

IMO - the best repair you could make in this situation is similar to your first option. But instead of using an epoxy based filler like JB Weld, fill the threaded hole by welding. First, drill the bore out to the major diameter of the threads and then backfill the oversized bore with weld. Preheat, use a small diameter cast iron/nickel rod (like 1/8") and cool as slowly as possible. I'm no professional welder but those are the basic steps. The weld doesn't need to be pretty (you are going to drill and tap most of it out anyway) just get good penetration.

Those are just my thoughts, and not necessarily correct.

 

[JRandle]

Thanks for the info man!

Anyone have anymore ideas? Or know if my third option is a good option?


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