SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME very appreciated

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codesteez

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Hey guys never really had luck with forums because people didn't respond but I'm going to try again. I have a 1986 305 c10 Chevy and it only runs advanced and pings if it doesn't ping its completely gutless I give it gas wen its cold and timing just below the ping doesn't go then takes off slowly I'm totally stumped!!!! After its hot if I'm sitting idling its almost a sound of a spark ark kinda a little tik noice and for a second the motor hickups no back firing or anything just like it didn't get spark for a spit second I have brand new plug wires. I work in a shop I'm a rookie but for some reason everyone's to busy to help but I really appreciate some help thanks guys
 

Jims86

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Hey guys never really had luck with forums because people didn't respond but I'm going to try again. I have a 1986 305 c10 Chevy and it only runs advanced and pings if it doesn't ping its completely gutless I give it gas wen its cold and timing just below the ping doesn't go then takes off slowly I'm totally stumped!!!! After its hot if I'm sitting idling its almost a sound of a spark ark kinda a little tik noice and for a second the motor hickups no back firing or anything just like it didn't get spark for a spit second I have brand new plug wires. I work in a shop I'm a rookie but for some reason everyone's to busy to help but I really appreciate some help thanks guys

Sounds like the exhaust may be plugged.
 

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Maybe you should pull your valve covers and check your lifters for proper pre-load (valve lash).

Also, more importantly, check for lost motion caused by a stretched timing chain. With the distributor cap off, jack the engine CW and watch the rotor ...- here just do what this guy says:

There is a very simple check for a loose timing chain due to a broken tensioner, worn gears, or a stretched chain. Pull the distributor cap and observe the rotor position. Take a breaker bar and a appropriate socket and put it on the crankshaft damper pulley. If you have a degree wheel put it on the damper pulley else you can just chalk mark the timing mark position at the appropriate time.

Now - slowly turn the crankshaft pulley in a clockwise direction. Watch the distributor and observe that the rotor is moving. Stop turning. Now - mark the damper pulley position with the chalk or observe the degree wheel. Very carefully turn the crankshaft in the other direction and VERY carefully observe the rotor in the distributor. The instant it begins to move STOP turning and mark the crankshaft position again. Measure the number of degrees of rotation of the crankshaft. If there is a lot of slop in the chain then you will have moved the crankshaft ten or fifteen degrees (or more) before taking the slop out of the chain after the reversal before the camshaft began to turn. Get the picture?? If all is well and there is no slack in the timing chain then you will see about three to five degrees of "reverse motion" before the distributor begins to turn.



Rather than 3-5 degrees, I would suggest no more than 3.

Actually, a tight chain/gear set will move the rotor with virtually no free play.


Google "symptoms of a slack timing chain". I think most descriptions will sound very familiar - your issue sounds like a textbook case.
 

HotRodPC

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Welcome to GMSB Cody. You won't be short of responses on this forum, and if that becomes the case, it's because you shot yourself in the foot and didn't participate or respond. We can walk you through just about anything you'd need as far as help, but be sure to come back and let us know how it's going and what corrected your problem. Knowing that, helps other members in the future. And don't be one of those guys that just show up when you have a problem, get it fixed then we don't hear from you again until something else breaks. Good group here, but we pay attention to those things and if you end up being one of those, then NO, you're thread might sit unanswered til it fall to the bottom of list and goes down in history unanswered. So, now that you know how we operate....

My first thought was along the lines of chengny. Maybe a slipped timing chain. It could have jumped maybe 1 tooth and a loose chain or 2 teeth. By advancing the timing you compensating igntion timing for valve timing that is off and that will allow it to run, but it'll run bad and be a gutless wonder and kinda give the idea there is a potato in the tailpipe. Keep in mind, we're only making suggestions based on your description and not hearing it outselves.

You mentioned new plug wires. Are you 100% sure you didn't hook one up wrong or get 2 switched and have the firing order wrong? That's worth a check too.

How about the cap and rotor? How old are they? Have you inspected them? I've also seen a rotor cap go bad before where the riveted tab moved throwing the ignition timing off.

Any clue how many miles are on this motor and has it ever had a timing chain replaced?
First I'd check the firing order on the plug wires is correct, then I'd do the Timing Chain test Chegny mentioned. You can also have someone hit the gas pedal a bit and feel the exhaust to make sure it's not clogged as Jim suggested.
 

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This kinda sounds like the performance of my 305 when it did not have a pcv valve, go check that and make sure its working.
 

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Also check to make sure that the plug wires are seated on the sparking plugs.
That tik and a hickup thing sort of sounds like You have a plug wire that the insulation may have slipped and the terminal is just about exposed.
More than eighty thousand miles and, in My opinion, for whatever that is worth, and it is ready and due for a new timing chain.
When replacing the timing chain, I like to drop the il pan and replace the oil pump too.
Makes it easier to get the timing cover back on, without having the worry about them front pan gaskets slipping.
 

codesteez

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I want to thank all of u guys very very very appreciated I have to check wen I get a little time but I will totally let u guys know what's going potato in the trial pipe is correct barely drives so I have to do it ASAP thanks to all of u for the quick response
 

codesteez

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Oh I forgot it just rolled over 101474 and it has never been changed before
 

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From Richmond originally, but spend a bit of time in the North Bay now and then. Usually blast through up to Arcata and back. Was in Sebastapol last weekend for a wedding, stayed at Hampton in Ronhert Park.
 

codesteez

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Gosh man world is so dam small yea Idk if u know willits is and that steep grade but that made me come on here and ask around I'm driving a truck with 2 foot pounds of torque and 12 HP lol what kind of truck do u have
 

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Oh I forgot it just rolled over 101474 and it has never been changed before

With that kind of mileage and a plastic fiber cam gear, the timing chain and timing gear can certainly be your problem here and I wouldn't be a bit surprised if that's what it is. If and when you do this if it's the problem, be sure to replace all 3 pieces, cam gear, crank gear and chain. You can actually usually find a good cheap deal on an aftermarket double roller chain and gear set. Good enough for a stocker motor and will outlast the rest of the motors life.
 

Jims86

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Gosh man world is so dam small yea Idk if u know willits is and that steep grade but that made me come on here and ask around I'm driving a truck with 2 foot pounds of torque and 12 HP lol what kind of truck do u have
I have an 86 Suburban that I have been using as an EFI testbed...currently stuck in Arcata. Trans took a **** in Laytonville on the way up for Thanksgiving.
With that kind of mileage and a plastic fiber cam gear, the timing chain and timing gear can certainly be your problem here and I wouldn't be a bit surprised if that's what it is. If and when you do this if it's the problem, be sure to replace all 3 pieces, cam gear, crank gear and chain. You can actually usually find a good cheap deal on an aftermarket double roller chain and gear set. Good enough for a stocker motor and will outlast the rest of the motors life.

Yup...I forgot about that plastic gear.
 

HotRodPC

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I have an 86 Suburban that I have been using as an EFI testbed...currently stuck in Arcata. Trans took a **** in Laytonville on the way up for Thanksgiving.


Yup...I forgot about that plastic gear.

It's been my experience, those are good for about 80,000-100,000 miles, so he's due for a chain and gear set swap IMO.
 

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